I have an APM 2.6 that I just built up.

I loaded 3.1.5 on it and went through the wizard.  Now, I am seeing Bad Gyro Health and the gyro is tumbling.

In some testing, I loaded 3.0.1 and the gyro issue goes away and the bird is actually flyable.

I've done this test a few times hoping that it was an issue in setup, but I always get bad gyro health on 3.1.5.

Is this a software bug?


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I meant to add, this can't be a blown regulator as the gyro's work on an older version of the software if I roll back.


And, ignore all the above.  The regulator is blown.  I guess I will have to get it a replacement.  

I just had this same issue, i think mine blew mid air or on a brownout (was flying and then boom motors stopped and then worked again for a split second then well SPLAT. Luckily no one was hurt.

This time I went ahead and ordered a Clone the new 2.7 // 2.8 version from BG, It is supposed to fix that bug so hopefully its actually better then the original APM.

I was going to go PixHawk but just decided to wait until there features included in the Pixhawk then I must have. Currently I am just flying a little 450 and flying for fun so though I would be ok with a 50$ APM.

I did actually fly my unit using the old V2 software, but it seemed like the Alt Hold and the "land" feature did not work very well, maybe the brownout or that blown reg also affected my baro.

Good luck!


Let me share what I found.  It was a blown regulator that was shorted and outputting just under 5V.

The case on the APM is marked 2.6, but the board is etched as 2.5.4  to further add to the confusion that I was facing.

That 3.3V regulator is a  TPS79133 and it can be found at Digikey by searching for $1.50 each.  

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/TPS79133DBVR/296-11866-1-ND... and had I ordered before 10pm last night, I would have had some spares in hand this morning.

It is easy enough to remove the chip with a standard soldering iron and some ChipQuik.  If you have never used this, it is a special solder that you 'mix' in with the chip you are removing and it stays soft for about 20 seconds.  That gives you lots of time to remove the chip.   http://www.chipquik.com/  and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0m_d52m1DU&feature=youtu.be.  Amazing stuff.

I found this image on the net using google image search from farbird@hotmail.com, so I hope he doesn't mind that I borrowed it.  


Hi Mike,

Thanks for that info, I think I might go ahead and order myself one. Glad to see you found a Canadian source, hopefully doesn't take long to hit me in Ottawa.

This way if I manage to successfully get the new chip in I can have it for my second frame. Still have to wonder what caused it? Is this new replacement piece any better then the original? Would hate for it to fall out of the sky again and do damage to someone / something.


Hi Brandon

I ordered 5 of them.  If you want to send me your board, I can fix it if you are not comfortable doing it.  Zoltan at NGHobbies in Woodbridge (Toronto) can do it also.

From what I read, adding the cap on the +5v rail really helps too.


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