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RT @Heavy02011: @diyrobocars : A Home-brew computer club* for Connected Autonomous Driving. talk at #piandmore @PiAndMore on Jan 23rd h…
RT @a1k0n: New blog post! Deep dive into my ceiling light based localization algorithm which runs in 1ms on a Raspberry Pi 3:
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New version of Intel OpenBot! This resolves many of the issues with the first version, including a much smoother tr… https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1352395636369313798
RT @Heavy02011: @diyrobocars : A Home-brew computer club* for Connected Autonomous Driving on Jan 23rd, 2021 https://www.meetup.com/Connected-Autonomous-Driving/events/275728684/ #Meetu…
RT @Heavy02011: @diyrobocars Autonomous Driving Assembly at #rC3. join us at https://rc3.world/rc3/assembly/diyrobocars-f1tenth/ @f1tenth @DAVGtech @DWalmroth…
RT @chr1sa: New car designs coming for our next @DIYRobocars @donkey_car virtual race on the 23rd. Choose any one you want at race time
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#define MIN_THROTTLE 670
and
if (ch_yaw > 1800) {
motorArmed = 1;
minThrottle = 970;
1 - power up you TX and move throttle stick all up (max)
2 - connect your ESC on RX and so power it up with a Lipo battery
3 - you will hear something like a "Teletubies" music beeps
4 - set throttle stick down (min) to save the setup
5 - you will hear another beeps tone
6 - you can power it down and it's OK
Regards
Assuming the TP ESC you're using is one of the Hobbywing designs where you power up at max throttle, then go to minimum to set the endpoint calibration, have you considered getting your hands on a servo tester and going the other way?
The GWS servo tester is cheap and can be used to both generate and measure servo pulse widths. Use the tester to set a sensible range (e.g. 1000 to 2000) and then configure APM to suit...
TowerPro w25A Brushless Speed Controller
USB alone doesn't seem to be enough to power a couple of servos when tinkering on the bench...
What you may need is a BEC so that you can use the battery to power two different sources w/ just the LiPo battery.
In the case of 1 source, you would have the sj1 joint closed. If you want to use 2 sources, leave sj1 open.
That being said, I have also powered the APM by removing the V+ pin from my throttle cable in both the in and out locations (the 3rd channel in my case) and then hooking up a 5V source (usb) to power the receiver and the board while leaving the battery to power the motor and ESC. In this case, the motor is still hooked up to the GND and Signal pin of the APM.