Quick question I am ready to cal my ESC’s again. But I do not want to blow it up again. I was thinking of unsoldering SJ1 and powering the board with usb Also I would be able to see the cal with the configurator. Then power the ESC’s and receiver with the battery. When all is done re solder SJ1. Does this sound ok?
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Hey Scott! If I understand your question... Like Michael said all you need to do is:
1 - power up you TX and move throttle stick all up (max)
2 - connect your ESC on RX and so power it up with a Lipo battery
3 - you will hear something like a "Teletubies" music beeps
4 - set throttle stick down (min) to save the setup
5 - you will hear another beeps tone
6 - you can power it down and it's OK
When you say "cal your ESC", are you referring to teaching the ESC the endpoints as output by APM?
Assuming the TP ESC you're using is one of the Hobbywing designs where you power up at max throttle, then go to minimum to set the endpoint calibration, have you considered getting your hands on a servo tester and going the other way?
The GWS servo tester is cheap and can be used to both generate and measure servo pulse widths. Use the tester to set a sensible range (e.g. 1000 to 2000) and then configure APM to suit...
Thanks guys, I am having problems configuring the ESC's. I did it directly connected to my RX. then connect it to the APM and all I get is cal mode cant make any changes.
If you desolder sj1, you can use 2 different power sources. 1, a 5v power source and the other is usually your LiPo battery.
What you may need is a BEC so that you can use the battery to power two different sources w/ just the LiPo battery.
In the case of 1 source, you would have the sj1 joint closed. If you want to use 2 sources, leave sj1 open.
That being said, I have also powered the APM by removing the V+ pin from my throttle cable in both the in and out locations (the 3rd channel in my case) and then hooking up a 5V source (usb) to power the receiver and the board while leaving the battery to power the motor and ESC. In this case, the motor is still hooked up to the GND and Signal pin of the APM.
Replies
#define MIN_THROTTLE 670
and
if (ch_yaw > 1800) {
motorArmed = 1;
minThrottle = 970;
1 - power up you TX and move throttle stick all up (max)
2 - connect your ESC on RX and so power it up with a Lipo battery
3 - you will hear something like a "Teletubies" music beeps
4 - set throttle stick down (min) to save the setup
5 - you will hear another beeps tone
6 - you can power it down and it's OK
Regards
Assuming the TP ESC you're using is one of the Hobbywing designs where you power up at max throttle, then go to minimum to set the endpoint calibration, have you considered getting your hands on a servo tester and going the other way?
The GWS servo tester is cheap and can be used to both generate and measure servo pulse widths. Use the tester to set a sensible range (e.g. 1000 to 2000) and then configure APM to suit...
TowerPro w25A Brushless Speed Controller
USB alone doesn't seem to be enough to power a couple of servos when tinkering on the bench...
What you may need is a BEC so that you can use the battery to power two different sources w/ just the LiPo battery.
In the case of 1 source, you would have the sj1 joint closed. If you want to use 2 sources, leave sj1 open.
That being said, I have also powered the APM by removing the V+ pin from my throttle cable in both the in and out locations (the 3rd channel in my case) and then hooking up a 5V source (usb) to power the receiver and the board while leaving the battery to power the motor and ESC. In this case, the motor is still hooked up to the GND and Signal pin of the APM.