On my hexacopter drone, I have setup my digital camera so that I can see live video from it through my FPV while flying. On my receiver, I have two channels left and want to be able to remotely take pictures and zoom in and out while flying, all from my Turnigy 9x Transmitter.
I watched a YouTube video about how to setup the camera to remotely trigger from the transmitter using a Turnigy remote controlled switch. Now I need to figure out the zoom in and out function.
Reading (http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/USB_Remote), I found that the when USB remote is enabled, CHDK is set up so that: 1 pulse = zoom in one step, 2 pulses = zoom out one step, and 3 pulses = shoot.
Assuming its possible to be able to change, 1 pulse = shoot, and the other two functions I want to use are triggered at 2 and 3 pulses, how can I connect this to my receiver so that my Turnigy 9x transmitter so that I can zoom it in and out using a turn knob switch? Would I need a programmable chip that would give the camera correct number of pulses based on the Transmitter's outputs or can the remote do that by itself? If so how would I go about programming that?
Since the camera only has one USB output, I figured that I could wire both the remote shutter switch and zoom in/out function in parallel to the camera, since only one function would be used at a time, or am I wrong here?
Hi Trevor, I am looking for a zoom capability from a Turnigy 9x for my Canon SX260, SX280, both having CHDK for Time-Lapse. I would like for Video shooting to control the zoom option from the controller remotely. How can it be performed ? Which HW and SW do I need ?. Thanks, Dave
I am still trying to figure out how to do this myself. The link that John posted is a great article, the only thing is, I was wanting to control the zoom with a knob instead of having to use the 3 position switch (im already using it for my flight modes) because with a preset value, I can't fine tune it. This method goes through the APM (which you have to configure channel 7 out put in mission planner) where the camera is hooked up to the channel 7 output and channels from the receiver are plugged into the APM. I am sure there is a way (just don't know how do to), but edit the script on the camera (http://plane.ardupilot.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2013/05/3DR_S...). When the knob (at 0 or in middle) is at a PWM value 1400-1450, it doesn't move (having the knob at exactly zero can be a hard so the range can make it easier to set to), when the value is greater than 1450, it continuously zooms in, and when it is less than 1400, it zooms out continuously.
If I knew what the commands were in the CHDK langauge I think it would work.
Another issue is getting live video of what the camera sees for FPV. This is I did figure out. Canon does not make a USB mini cable that does not support the top and bottom pins. It either supports one or the other. I read an article (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1343115&page=5). Tried looking for that HTC connector with the breakout board because it would have made this process so much easier. Looked all over the internet for it and its discontinued everywhere (CanaKit's site says they have it but after a month of waiting for it, they told me it was discontinued as well). On ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/400527139627?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&a...) for $7, I found a 10 pack of 11pin USB mini HTC connectors (even though they have the different shape, you can remove the metal plate and it will plug in securely without it. I tried to take a normal shell off of another USB mini cable but it wouldn't fit and I wouldnt end up sanding down too far to get it too fit. I went through 6 of the 10 connectors trying to get this to work.) I soldered the 4 wires and bridge the one connection. I added the pinout chart I modified below. Pins 6 and 7 need to be bridged together to enable the camera to send a video out signal. Soldering the pins was very difficult. If you get the pin too hot, it will melt the plastic and shift. The solution for me was using a junk canon camera parts that I had and plugged the cable into the port on the side. This kept the pins in place when I soldered them.) Since this didn't do any damage to both of them, I would say it would be okay if you plugged it into your good camera as long as you don't leave the soldering gun on there too long. Be sure to use heat shrink tubing to the connections don't short out. I wish I could find a cable that already has this done. I tested the cable and the FPV part of the cable works fine.
Also, I gave up on working with the 9x remote because its limited on what you can do and I'm running out of channels. Like for still photos, I want to use the rocker switch but you can't do that on the 9X. I plan on using the Taranis X9D plus (16 channels).
I'm sorry I couldn't be more help. I am still beginner at this. I'll keep you posted once I figure out more.
Nice work. I will try this as soon as I can to get video out of my 260. Now will need to buy a video switcher...Already using 11 channels on my radio...Please keep posting your work.
Just found these connectors today.
I mentioned it earlier, if you order from CanaKit you will not receive them. I ordered these a couple months ago and after a month waiting I contacted them about why I hadn't received them yet (thankfully they never charged me for them), they told me that it was a discontinued item. They're website is misleading. I was really disappointed because that connector would have made the soldering process so much easier.
When I got the email of your post, I saw the link for:
Even though soldering will be a pain on these like the HTC ones, they will be more durable because I can use the metal shell. Thanks for sharing this!
I want to point out that I messed up making this pin out chart and that it is completely backwards. I created it as if you are looking at this connector from the back instead of the front.