glue on props

Hello Everyone,

Ok the only crashed I get now are when a prop falls off the quad will in flight.  It has cost me two cameras and a good amount of embarrassment.  It only happens once every 15 flights but I hate it.  So has anyone ever super glued the collet prop ad pater to there motor?  It seems even if the motor goes bad at some point a new motor comes with a new collet adapter.

 

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  • Not on camera (or even an adapter we know about) but a prop adapter that comes off. "...I didn't want to crank down too much."

    The event occurs at 2:23. I hear a lot of 'jingle' in the drive train from the beginning.

    -=Doug

  • I have probably crashed at least as many times as other learners, but I've never glued my props on (I replace them too often) and I've never had a collett come loose in flight.  Many prop strikes, and one prop disintegration in the air, bent motors, bent motor arms, but never a collett failure.

  • Moderator
    A blinged quad - niice. (;
  • Hehe... I have those motors, props and collets, etc.... but I've never had a problem... I suspect most of these issues are simply to do with not being set up in accordance with best practice, since most people wouldn't know what that is...

  • I have found this was acutally a previously discussed issue right here on DIYD.

    From an initial post in 2010 (think plastic part Arducopters..)

    Propellor Install Notes

    As I am collecting data for this tome, I found a Wordpress blog post of a AC 'B' version with the purple motors.

    This fellow was 'lucky' enough to have mounted a camera on his AC AND CAUGHT THE PROP ADAPTOR FLYING OFF ON VIDEO! This guy could be you or me. The event is from 1:12 to 1:15 with predicatable results.

    Wordpress Page 

     

    -=Doug

  • Moderator

    As a reference - this is the collet/prop adapter i'm now using without fail for many flights, crashes and hours in the air.  The times it has come off the motor, is when the collet slid off the motor shaft - which is what I was referring to much earlier in this topic.

    3692590614?profile=original

    http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLM1924

     

    Cheers,
    David.

  • Moderator

    It's amazing what 24 hours can do - and maybe a little embarrassment.

    I was set for a standard flight this morning, trialing some waypoints etc, when I see a full sized helicopter wanting to land on the oval i'm using.  I wait for the copter to land and the pilot spots the quad before he's left the cockpit and we have a brief chat about it.  Pull out the video cam and record it fly away.  Filled with the 'coolness' of flight, I set up my quad, hit record on the GoPro and take off...  Get about 30 second into the flight and two props fly off. *face palm*  This was AFTER tightening strongly AND using varnish.

    Needless to say that it's not acceptable for the hobbiest, let alone what i'm trying to do. 

    So, subsequently I ordered my Tiger motors with screw on prop adapter and CW/CCW nuts to replace the stock quad motors that came with my kit.

     

  • Blue locking compound is spec'ed as appropriate for bolts/screws >= 1/4" in diameter. If used for smaller bolts/screws, you may run into problems removing them unless you heat them up.

    http://henkelontheroad.henkelna.com/LT-6540_AN_RemovableReliable_SS...

    Not commonly found in stores, but available on Amazon, is Purple Loctite:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KKTT0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8...

    This has a lower locking strength, and is intended for bolts/screws smaller than 1/4" in diameter.

  • I agree completely. As for the thought of super glue vs locktite how do they differ? When I go to the store they seem to be the same. At this point I am stuck with what I have but it does make it stressful.
  • These clamp style prop adapters seem to me an an unnecessary point of failure. Although I haven't had one come off myself in flight yet, they make me incredibly nervous.

    I don't disagree that from an engineering perspective it is *possible* to fit and tighten these to a degree where they are mechanically sound, using loctite and CW/CCW threads to help, but your average user is going to have a pretty high likelihood of getting it wrong over time, as it is not self-evident whether you've done it correctly.

    One of the reasons I'm looking to move to T-motors is that they feature prop adapters that screw directly on to the outrunner case, which seems like a much more direct and foolproof solution than hoping that two pieces of cheaply manufactured metal (shaft + adapter) are being pushed together with just the right amount of pressure to stop them sliding apart, yet not too much that you strip the thread or bend something when applying the opposing force.
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