New Octo Copter Design/Build Thread

Starting a new thread to show what I'm working on.  I'm building a new Octocopter of my own design.  The goal is to use it for Aerial Photography, lifting a mid-weight camera such as a Sony Nex5.  It will of course be using Arducopter for control.  ;)

I started off researching the various kits on the market, and starting getting analysis paralysis.  I looked at all the options such as Droidworx AD8, Cinestar, CarbonCore, and SteadiDrone.  But I just wasn't happy with the design on them, particularly for the price they ask.  Combined with the fact that I can be pretty frugal, and have a strong DIY ethic, I decided to just design my own.

The basis of the design relies on many of the Hobby King quadcopter parts.  I liked the design of the motor mounts, they are very professional looking, even compared to some of the high end machines.  And I liked that the boom mounts are blocks of aluminum instead of plastic.  Very rigid.  I also liked the look of the dome on their H.A.L. quad, but since they don't sell it seperately, I bought the whole kit, it's only $34, amazing!  I might end up using the rest of it someday, who knows?  So, I basically emptied out their stock of Talon parts, so if you need to fix your Talon quad and the parts are backordered... sorry!

Once that was settled, I set about designing the center frame.  My design required a few things, namely I want all the wiring hidden.  I don't want any spaghetti showing.  Particularly with the ESC's, while still allowing cooling airflow.  This required the center hub to be larger than is typical.  I then needed a smaller subframe to house the avionics.

You can see these plates below.  The larger one houses the HAL dome. You will notice the 3 blue anti-vibration grommets in the middle.  This is the APM1 pattern.  I did that just because.  Maybe I'll use an APM1 as a stand along gimbal controller.  The second plate had grommet mounting for an APM2.  The final plate is the top plate, and has bolt patterns for the Ublox GPS and the magnetometer.


This next photos shows the avionics frame built up with an APM2 mounted.  25mm aluminum standoffs are used. I don't like the plastic standoffs typically used.  They get loose, and lead to vibration.  They also break easily.  This structure ends up being quite rigid.


Here is the avionics frame mounted on top of the main frame.  Yes, the main frame is HUGE.  I actually don't see the point in having a tiny center frame, and then long arms.  This seems like it just leads to flex, and doesn't leave you with any real estate to mount your avionics.  


This photo shows one of my design features.  I put some cutouts on the bottom frame for weight savings, and then made matching cutouts on the top frames.  This creates some nice conduits to run wires neatly.


Here it is with the HAL dome mounted and one of the Talon arm mounts bolted in.  I'm really happy with how stiff the assembly is already.


Here it is with one of the arms mounted.  These are the short 220mm arms, I also got some of the 320mm arms.  One may wonder how I'm going to get away with such short arms and 13" props....  Astute readers will know what I'm planning already. ;)


This last photo shows one of the ESC's in position. This is a Hobby King F-40A, it's somewhat larger than typical 20A units which is partially why the frame is so big.


That's it for now.  I had the plates cut out of aluminum to start with because it's cost effective.  If it all works out, I'll probably have it redone in carbon fiber plate for the weight savings.  I was a little uncertain about the weight, but it looks like the frame will come in at 1070g all in aluminum.  That's about 300g heavier than a Droidworx AD8, but not too bad. It will drop about 1-200g if redone in CF.

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  • Brilliant frames... solid very much, nice looking!

  • where do I download the files dwg octocopter arducopter?

  • HK order made it in today with Octo parts

    I have two sets of the plates but I think I will try this first.  12" props are mounted

    also have a camera mount / landing gear that will get it off the ground a bit 

    seems very strong and rigid, it is a bit small but with the extra parts it should work ok


  • I need a diagram on autocad dwg octocopter arducopter, only the center plater.
    helping me

  • I have cut down the arms to 160mm and mounted all the motors with props.  It now feels MUCH better to the hand.  Much stiffer.

    I think I'm going to call it the "Dwarf Star", because it looks like a dwarf octo.  I'll try to get some pictures up soon.

    Right now I'm just stuck on the SimonK ESC flashing.  Not having a lot of luck yet.  Another learning curve just to get the software working.  Then I have to figure out how to make contact with the programming pads.  I tried one method, no luck yet.  And I've basically destroyed 1 ESC.  Luckily I bought 9.

  • Ok guys, the pricing for the aluminum plates is $75 for the set of 5, waterjet cut from 6061-T6, supplied rough, plus shipping from Canada (which shouldn't be too much, they're thin).  

    Sorry for the delay, I'm busy on a lot of stuff, and honestly wasn't expecting anybody will be interested in these.

    I could also supply a hardware package to assemble them, as you will need some spacers and things.  I'll have to work out the price, but you're probably looking at close to $100.  That I think will give you a pretty decent Octo frame for less than $300 including the Talon parts?

    Now, I should point out, that I just saw HK is releasing an Octo plate set:

    I haven't seen the photos yet, but from the description they are very small, so will you'll have trouble fitting your electronics.

    I will now seek out some pricing on CF plates.

  • @ F11,

    HK Talon V2 parts

  • Can someone post the links for the hobbyking parts? I would like to get that out of the way while I wait for the aluminum parts.

  • 3692506223?profile=originalOk, now we're cooking with fire :-) Got my stuff from HK early (gotta love that!), the 450 shafts are perfect and the collar will even work without machining the mount if I add an additional brass washer like the two that come on it under the e-clip. The groove for the lock ring is in just the right spot for this length of this motor.

    Now I need to figure out the mounting of the DS929. The plan is to screw a cup to the servo arm to receive the ball on the collar (just like the "L" bracket that is usually used but instead of pivoting on a bearing it would pivot on the servo).

    Will work on this and hopefully post up some test video after this weekend. Have to give the first part of tomorrow to putting a transmission in my Subbie then it's all play :-)

  • The 3648 is propably a bit overkill for the tail, it's HEAVY! I think you'd have issues balancing it.
    The "Donkey" type motors might be a better option. 800kv on 6S might not give you good overhead on RPM, IIRC the tail on my 600 does ~16k RPM, but you could spin it faster and use a less torquey motor to save weight. If the diameter of the tail boom is correct it would make a sweet mod to use the Talon mount and a left over Talon tube of any length you want?

    Start measuring! LoL :-)

    No cutting groves for clips, that is why I got the V1 450 shafts, adjustable lock collar ;-) just grinding flats for the motor bell set screw and tail rotor head set screw. I just hope the HK shafts are straight and hardened. Will know next week...
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