Starting a new thread to show what I'm working on. I'm building a new Octocopter of my own design. The goal is to use it for Aerial Photography, lifting a mid-weight camera such as a Sony Nex5. It will of course be using Arducopter for control. ;)
I started off researching the various kits on the market, and starting getting analysis paralysis. I looked at all the options such as Droidworx AD8, Cinestar, CarbonCore, and SteadiDrone. But I just wasn't happy with the design on them, particularly for the price they ask. Combined with the fact that I can be pretty frugal, and have a strong DIY ethic, I decided to just design my own.
The basis of the design relies on many of the Hobby King quadcopter parts. I liked the design of the motor mounts, they are very professional looking, even compared to some of the high end machines. And I liked that the boom mounts are blocks of aluminum instead of plastic. Very rigid. I also liked the look of the dome on their H.A.L. quad, but since they don't sell it seperately, I bought the whole kit, it's only $34, amazing! I might end up using the rest of it someday, who knows? So, I basically emptied out their stock of Talon parts, so if you need to fix your Talon quad and the parts are backordered... sorry!
Once that was settled, I set about designing the center frame. My design required a few things, namely I want all the wiring hidden. I don't want any spaghetti showing. Particularly with the ESC's, while still allowing cooling airflow. This required the center hub to be larger than is typical. I then needed a smaller subframe to house the avionics.
You can see these plates below. The larger one houses the HAL dome. You will notice the 3 blue anti-vibration grommets in the middle. This is the APM1 pattern. I did that just because. Maybe I'll use an APM1 as a stand along gimbal controller. The second plate had grommet mounting for an APM2. The final plate is the top plate, and has bolt patterns for the Ublox GPS and the magnetometer.
This next photos shows the avionics frame built up with an APM2 mounted. 25mm aluminum standoffs are used. I don't like the plastic standoffs typically used. They get loose, and lead to vibration. They also break easily. This structure ends up being quite rigid.
Here is the avionics frame mounted on top of the main frame. Yes, the main frame is HUGE. I actually don't see the point in having a tiny center frame, and then long arms. This seems like it just leads to flex, and doesn't leave you with any real estate to mount your avionics.
This photo shows one of my design features. I put some cutouts on the bottom frame for weight savings, and then made matching cutouts on the top frames. This creates some nice conduits to run wires neatly.
Here it is with the HAL dome mounted and one of the Talon arm mounts bolted in. I'm really happy with how stiff the assembly is already.
Here it is with one of the arms mounted. These are the short 220mm arms, I also got some of the 320mm arms. One may wonder how I'm going to get away with such short arms and 13" props.... Astute readers will know what I'm planning already. ;)
This last photo shows one of the ESC's in position. This is a Hobby King F-40A, it's somewhat larger than typical 20A units which is partially why the frame is so big.
That's it for now. I had the plates cut out of aluminum to start with because it's cost effective. If it all works out, I'll probably have it redone in carbon fiber plate for the weight savings. I was a little uncertain about the weight, but it looks like the frame will come in at 1070g all in aluminum. That's about 300g heavier than a Droidworx AD8, but not too bad. It will drop about 1-200g if redone in CF.
Replies
Ok, I've got the cutting layout done.
What do you guys think about CF plate, vs. just going with a Garloite/G10/FR4 composite? Just based on material price alone, the garolite is less than half the price of CF.
Just thinking about it now, it makes sense to cut the avionics plates from Garolite. These don't need to be high strength, and we might benefit from the electrical non-conductive properties. I'm going to make a call to do these out of 1/16" Garolite unless anybody has a compelling reason not to. My prototype plates are made from slightly less than 1/16" aluminum, and they're plenty strong.
Ok, so that's easy.
Now what about the main body. CF vs. Garolite. Currently these are 1/16" 6061-T6. Cutting them out of 1/16" CF would result in them being about twice the strength. Stiffness will go up too. If I cut them out of 1/16" Garolite, it will be weaker than the aluminum prototypes. I think it would be best in this case to use 1/8" Garolite in this case. This would end up being 1/3rd the material price compared to 1/16" CF, but it would be weaker, and heavier.
Is there demand for "economy class" frames?
My guess, without having actual cutting pricing yet, is that CF main frame and G-10 avionics frame might be about $2-300. Then the full G-10 econo frame would probably be $100-200.
Rob are you able to CNC something like this for the octo? Would make a nice cover. Not sure what material would be best.
http://www.foxtechfpv.com/product/Quadcopter/FH-H800/9.JPG
http://www.foxtechfpv.com/product/Quadcopter/FH-H800/10.JPG
Hi,
I'm building a hex with those exact same motors (3536-910s) and was looking for ESCs that could do 40a and were simonk compatible, so thanks for posting your links in the comments.
I checked out your prop test data, I can't find anything online for one of those motors standalone with 12" props, and it looks like your test data is for 13"
Did you do a test with a single motor and 12" (assume 12x4.5 or 12x3?) prop? I'd really love to see those figures.
Thanks,
Gareth
Does anybody have a preference as to if the APM mounts on the bottom or middle avionics plate? I moved it down to the bottom plate in my CF design, but now I can't remember why! :)
I'm looking at it again, and think I should leave it on the middle plate. Try to get as far away from all the nastiness going on in the power section as I can. ;)
Here's a nice dome if it can be bought separately. See the last photos on the page.
http://www.foxtechfpv.com/fhh800-arf-with-ds02-gimbal-and-dji-wkm-c...
Yes very stable! You are just giving a little throttle (not enough to take off) and at the same time giving full right? Then you let go of the Aileron on take off? That would normally flip a quad? Have you tried flying with less than 8 props? I've seen people remove a prop to test the redundancy but wouldn't the APM max the speed out on that motor since it doesn't know it's without a prop? Better way I guess is to just disconnect it's signal line to the ESC.
My parts should arrive in one week :) I got the longer arms but haven't decided if I will do the overlapping like you did or just use the full arm. I recall you said you cut yours to get it smaller. Do you think it helps the stability? I just prefer the look of them all being on the same plane.
Here's a quick video of the DwarfStar. I was doing some testing, trying to force a flip on takeoff, but could not. You can see how stable it is. I'll try to put something together later that shows how well it performs, but for now, here's a taste:
Love this thread - glad I found it!
I'm in the midst of an octo build, too - and noted that several of you have mentioned that you might be giving pusher/puller a try with your motors/props overlapping. How has that worked out? Here is the stack-less build I'm playing with currently:
Looks like I'll need to go with all 880kvs rather than 4+4 (880/850) - as well as all 11x4.7 props. Has anyone tested this kind of push/pull setup?
I posted my build earlier before discovering this thread: http://diydrones.com/forum/topics/octo-x-bicycle-wheel-design-2
Cheers,
jake
I did one battery worth of high speed dynamic flying with the octo last night, using the latest PID's which I'd tuned for a stable hover. It did EXCELLENT! The high speed flight is super stable and smooth. It might as well be an airplane. Super super happy with where I'm at now.
And the Octo might get it's first "job" tomorrow at work. ;) We have two facilities, 1.1km apart, and we are interested in running a high speed wifi link between them. But the IT guy needs to know how tall of antenna we'll need to get VLOS. So I figured I can bring the Octo and just send it up until he can see it from the other facility, then report the altitude.
Perfect use of a drone. He thought he would have to rent a crane or something.
Rob I read all your posts on regroups about the open source gimble. Not sure if there is a kit yet available. Will you be sourcing the parts yourself? If you do source the parts you can count me in for two kits. You can ship them with the octo kit. I was able to change the ESC back to the one you are using and they just shipped my order so I should have it inside of 2 weeks. Once you have prices, how can I send you money? Paypal?