New Octo Copter Design/Build Thread

Starting a new thread to show what I'm working on.  I'm building a new Octocopter of my own design.  The goal is to use it for Aerial Photography, lifting a mid-weight camera such as a Sony Nex5.  It will of course be using Arducopter for control.  ;)

I started off researching the various kits on the market, and starting getting analysis paralysis.  I looked at all the options such as Droidworx AD8, Cinestar, CarbonCore, and SteadiDrone.  But I just wasn't happy with the design on them, particularly for the price they ask.  Combined with the fact that I can be pretty frugal, and have a strong DIY ethic, I decided to just design my own.

The basis of the design relies on many of the Hobby King quadcopter parts.  I liked the design of the motor mounts, they are very professional looking, even compared to some of the high end machines.  And I liked that the boom mounts are blocks of aluminum instead of plastic.  Very rigid.  I also liked the look of the dome on their H.A.L. quad, but since they don't sell it seperately, I bought the whole kit, it's only $34, amazing!  I might end up using the rest of it someday, who knows?  So, I basically emptied out their stock of Talon parts, so if you need to fix your Talon quad and the parts are backordered... sorry!

Once that was settled, I set about designing the center frame.  My design required a few things, namely I want all the wiring hidden.  I don't want any spaghetti showing.  Particularly with the ESC's, while still allowing cooling airflow.  This required the center hub to be larger than is typical.  I then needed a smaller subframe to house the avionics.

You can see these plates below.  The larger one houses the HAL dome. You will notice the 3 blue anti-vibration grommets in the middle.  This is the APM1 pattern.  I did that just because.  Maybe I'll use an APM1 as a stand along gimbal controller.  The second plate had grommet mounting for an APM2.  The final plate is the top plate, and has bolt patterns for the Ublox GPS and the magnetometer.

3690957775?profile=original

This next photos shows the avionics frame built up with an APM2 mounted.  25mm aluminum standoffs are used. I don't like the plastic standoffs typically used.  They get loose, and lead to vibration.  They also break easily.  This structure ends up being quite rigid.

3690957741?profile=original

Here is the avionics frame mounted on top of the main frame.  Yes, the main frame is HUGE.  I actually don't see the point in having a tiny center frame, and then long arms.  This seems like it just leads to flex, and doesn't leave you with any real estate to mount your avionics.  

3690957790?profile=original

This photo shows one of my design features.  I put some cutouts on the bottom frame for weight savings, and then made matching cutouts on the top frames.  This creates some nice conduits to run wires neatly.

3690957845?profile=original

Here it is with the HAL dome mounted and one of the Talon arm mounts bolted in.  I'm really happy with how stiff the assembly is already.

3690957970?profile=original

Here it is with one of the arms mounted.  These are the short 220mm arms, I also got some of the 320mm arms.  One may wonder how I'm going to get away with such short arms and 13" props....  Astute readers will know what I'm planning already. ;)

3690957856?profile=original

This last photo shows one of the ESC's in position. This is a Hobby King F-40A, it's somewhat larger than typical 20A units which is partially why the frame is so big.

3690957985?profile=original

That's it for now.  I had the plates cut out of aluminum to start with because it's cost effective.  If it all works out, I'll probably have it redone in carbon fiber plate for the weight savings.  I was a little uncertain about the weight, but it looks like the frame will come in at 1070g all in aluminum.  That's about 300g heavier than a Droidworx AD8, but not too bad. It will drop about 1-200g if redone in CF.

You need to be a member of diydrones to add comments!

Join diydrones

Email me when people reply –

Replies

  • Hi, 

    Sorry been away for a few days. I'm ready when you are, I'd like all that you can supply for the CF kit please, hardware and all.

    Is there a list of what's included/required to complete?

    Cheers

  • Hi Rob,

    I will pm you my address details but I think if you send it today by a US priority mail then it should arrive in time. I need it by December 12 at the latest. I can also send you a fedex label but would need the weight and dimensions. I just looked at USPS and they have some flat rate boxes that should arrive in time so let me know the best option for you and how much I need to PP you.

    Also, I would like the better hardware package.

  • Ok everybody, I just received all the rest of the hardware to make these kits.  Well, the CF ones at least.  At this point I'm not quite sure how to proceed, the big question is around the shipping cost.  I really won't know how much until you tell me how you want them shipped.  Actually, I guess I can probably get the price online.  So just let me know what kind of service you're looking for.  I assume the addresses in the Paypal is correct?

    F11Music, I'm hoping to ship yours first because of your time constraints.  It's probably going to have to be 1 or 2 day air which will be expensive.  Is that what you want to do?  You'll have to send me your address so I can try and get a price.  I'd like to ship yours tomorrow, but I have to get the quote, then you have to finish paying and then I can ship.

    Also, on the hardware, originally I said $80, but I have come up with a slightly better system.  Basically I want to supply new threaded standoffs to replace the ones used with the Turnigy Talon arm mountings.  You all should have 2 20mm standoffs for each mount, but I have found they are really really soft (like the rest of the Turnigy alloy).  Mine are all buggered up from the crash and don't sit flat anymore.  I think the whole structure will be stiffer if I include industrial grade standoffs the same as the others I supply.

    In addition to that, I've come up with what I think is a better system for mounting the canopy, so I don't have the same problem again...  Basically I'm going to install some riv-nuts into the bottom avionics plate in the 4 mounting locations.  Then include red anodized aluminum screws which you use to fasten down the canopy.

    So if you want these upgrades, I have to charge $90 for the hardware.

  • Rob, are you still using the H.A.L. landing gear or have you found something better? I didn't get any yet because it seemed the H.A.L. ones were too flimsy. Would be interested to know if you found anything better.

  • Rob, can I make a small addition to my order? I am probably going with the full length arms instead of overlapping the props. I don't mind the size and I don't think it will effect the camera view but anyway I would like to have the motor risers as an option. Can you add them to my order. Send me the final total when you have it so I can pp you the rest.

    I noticed you are using bullet connectors on the motors. I stopped using those years ago after causing some crashes. Wasn't really the bullet connect but that they came poorly soldered. From then on I've been soldering direct even though it can be inconvenient. Maybe putting a shrink wrap over it after connected can help.

  • I had a few difficulties working with the machine shop, but after it all, I'm very very happy with the quality of the work.  Oh, and the shop owner is interested in getting some aerial photos of this shop. ;)


    3692557840?profile=original

  • Rob, the top plate being a slightly heavier should not be a big problem for me.

    Anodized would be great, as it would stiffen the frame even more, if I remember correctly, very light burrs actually disappear in the process. But the big nasty once have to be taken off before  the anodising process.

    Powder coating would be nice too, main advantage for me being electrical insulation.
    But again, you would have to take off the burrs before powder coating, otherwise the edges will look like a very bad paint job, where the paint run over the edge ...
    And you lose some of the thermal qualities

    So the best option would be (for me), the arm mount plates in Anodized, everything above in Powder coated.

    Kevin`s deburring method works nicely for me, I use an orbital sander with 500grit, and then run a knife around the edges.

    What kind of waiting times would we be looking at ?

    And ... what Colour ???

  • Rob, do you know what the approximate payload capacity is with your setup?

  • Rob, will you be including the copper washer(s) also? Since I'm having this forwarded to me and have already got the HK parts, I want to make sure I'm not missing any small part. I will be going with 4 x 33004Snanotech's. What C rate do you recommend?

    So looks like no easy way for power monitoring? I saw your post on the 2.5+ thread. Even this wouldn't work?

    https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10644

    What battery connectors are you using? XT60's should be ok?

    Do you think it's ok to use the APM2.5+ to power the gimbal? Can I use it just for the signal wire to have the APM camera stabilization but power it from another BEC?

    Just some things I didn't need to think about with the Quad :)

  • The CF should be cut by now.  I'm just waiting for the call to find out if I have $700 worth of scrap or what...

    I also got word back from the waterjet cutter.  I can get much better pricing if I do a set of 10, so I am considering that.  The pricing is actually good enough that I could investigate some finishing operations on these.  I would like to look at wire brushing and then anodizing, or I could look into a powder coat.

    For the 3 guys that ordered aluminum already, are you interested in waiting for this?  No extra charge, just extra time.

    The anodizing is probably the best as it adds almost no weight, and actually makes the surface of the Aluminum harder than bare.  The Powder coat may be cheaper, and possibly more attractive, but it only adds weight for appearance and not any physical benefit.

This reply was deleted.

Activity