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Reversed polarity on current sensor setup - how bad is it?

Posted by JJ Blackwood on March 13, 2011 at 10:23pm
Today while hooking up my hot-off-the-presses current sensor I made a mistake: I soldered the 3-pin header into the wrong position on the IMU, and didn't catch it before I attempted to hook up the current sensor. The net result is that the + battery lead from the current sensor (3-cell lipo voltage) went right to the ground pin ont he IMU, with appropriately non-working behavour from the whole unit.

After sorting out the incorrect lead I no longer get much out of the APM/IMU - if I plug the APM/IMU into USB the blue "on" light and the Rx/Tx pair blink. Then everything shuts down, and the fuse gets painfully hot. If I separate the IMU from the APM the fuse doesn't get hot, the on light continues to blink until the IMU is unplugged from USB.

Is there a way to determine which system (IMU/APM) I fried so that I might replace the toasted board?


Thank you!

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Replies

  • DIY Drones Store Support March 14, 2011 at 3:41pm
    Sorry to hear what happened. The only way to test the APM would be to use an FTDI cable and see if you could upload firmware to it or not. But this also doesn't test the PPM encoder and some of the other components on the board like the multiplexer. For the Oilpan, it's hard to test without a working APM but you can see when a component is fried. The top of the component will have a deform/bump on it.
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