Thanks to the assistance on the board i discovered that I need to make a Servo Power Board. Here is a crappy MS Paint rendition of the of the board that I am soldering up.
The red connector is the connection to the BEC (either socket or plug) I have not decided yet But I am going to put a magnet ring inline to help cut down on noise.
The Black connectors are Servo plugs soldered to the S pin on the connector board. The + and - rails are common bus but using the single pin to S connector there is no power to be back feed back to the APM.
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Ladies and gentlemen may i present to you the "Red Board". Consider it my contribution to the open source community and free game under what ever open source licencing that the APM is under. And why red you ask? Well I am a ginger and have a family of gingers people have been calling me "Red" all my life so why not name it after myself. Red sounds like bread.
I soldered the board up late last night, tested, retested, and tested some more. After ensuring that there were no ground faults linked pins or other issues that would cause a failure. I applied a 1 cell 1000mAh lipo and verified voltage on the power rails, and with my multi-meter attached to the ground leg I checked for voltage on the signal pins. I applied some gyro mounting foam to the bottom to prevent my solder connections from grounding out, and performed continuity tests and voltage tests again. I thought I had a ferrite ring laying about but didn't. I am going to finish radio setup of the 450 while I wait for my separate switching BEC to arrive wich will have a ferrite ring.
Currently each lead has JR style servo plugs so I can plug them into the signal section of the APM and the battery socket of my receiver for radio setup. I used the top of the tail block mounting point for my APM 2.0 with the tail rotor mounting point for the GPS module. So to keep the power block and wires managed the plan is to use a trex 450 servo mounting bracket and screw to mount the below block to the tail under the carbon fiber APM shelf that I fabricated.
Looks good to me. This is what I did, including a ULN2803 chip for LED power handling.
Having the XT60 connector right on the board doesn't work out very well at all. I'll have to put it on a lead. Also, I like your idea of soldering the signal wires directly to the servo pins. I have another connector, but your method would be more reliable.