MR60

Round tubes offer the following pros:

  • handle twist better than square tubes.  Thus for the strength, are far lighter.
  • are more readily available (pipes, tubes, arrows, kite frames, golf clubs and sticks of all materials).
  • easier to cut (square tubing can twist and be damaged by cutting forces)
  • easier to peg (fits into a drilled hole and easy to find extenders)
  • less expensive

Round tubes are thought to have the following cons:

  • difficult to mount motors
  • difficult to join

None of the cons are real if you know how to work with tubes.  Mounting round tubes to motors is easier and faster than with square tubing.  Round tubes are also faster and easier to join together.  The resulting joins are also far lighter and better.

In the H-frame forum, I was asked to share these build techniques so have decided to demonstrate the methods on the most complex multi-copter one can build, an Octa-V.  I'll do this step by step.  The result will be a multi-copter that reduces frame, screw, gusset, and motor mount weights by more than 40%.

The steps will be Design, Assembly, Charmin Test, and Flight Test

Installment 1:  Design

First, both simple and complex multi-copters share something in common.  When using round tubes for arms, there is no reason to cut a perfectly good tube in half for each arm.  And then add a bunch of weight and fasteners to hold the halves together.  How this is done will become evident in the third installment, the Charmin Test.  For now, just know that each tube is continuous (no breaks, no joins).  Opposite rotors share the same boom in a quad, hexa, or octa.  All of those fasteners are gone.  The cross beams on a V or H are also continuous.  Assembly and disassembly is quick.

Most quads are so simple that one grabs two pieces of wood the same size and slap them together.  Done.  If the angle of view isn't good, just move the camera forward a bit.  But, if you want to know the exact length of a quad boom based on prop diameter and platform size so you can minimize weight to get longer flights, then I've attached a worksheet that does the math.

An Octa V is a bit more complex.  It is specifically used for camera work.  So you need to optimize the motor boom angle and aspect ratio of the frame to achieve the desired Field-of-View for the camera (void of propellers),  It also uses 8 motors so that if one dies, the copter can return to the ground with the $12K of camera/lens in tact.  You also need to minimize platform vibration, so the platform needs to be large enough for the electronics, gimbal mount, and at least 1.2" (30mm) from the prop radius.

I've attached an Excel worksheet that does all of the calculations for optimizing weight.  There is an instruction sheet if you want to ever build one and calculations for a Quad X, Quad +, Quad Spider, and Octa V.

The next installment will be Assembly.

P.S.  I'm not experienced nor am I an expert.  I'm just a tinkerer like many of you. There are builders out there with far more experience and wisdom. I'm hoping that this blog will allow us all to share ideas on building strong, fast, and light not only for initial build, but also for crash repair.

Multi-Copter Design.xlsx

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Replies

  • Have been using a lot of tubes, different materials such as aluminum, glass fiber, etc. They all work great.

  • MR60

    About Forrest's questions on how to flash the Alexmos firmware/software on the cheap brushless gimbal from Hobbyking (here : http://www.hobbyking.com/HOBBYKING/store/__41386__2_Axis_Brushless_...)

    You can follow the youtube video tutorial here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tjd7ryV-ufI

    It requires the use of "Xloader" which can be downloaded here : http://russemotto.com/xloader/

    And it flashes the nulled Alexmos firmware attached.

    SimpleBGC_2_2_b2_null.hex

    • Spent the last couple of hours trying to get this to work on my RCTimer board. Xloader freezes and Ihave to close it down with task manager.

    • MR60

      I do not know the rctimer board but it could be that it is not hardware compatible with the alexmos firmware. I used the cheap hobbyking controller in the link above and it works like a charm.

    • Success

      Connected it to my laptop instead of the main computer changed settings on the xloader - Device - drop down box selected 'Uno(ATmega328)'. This automatically sets the baud rate at 115200, Changed this to '57600'. Clicked 'Upload' and the red light on the RCtimer V1 gmc started flashing. I then downloaded the Alexmos gui version 2.2.b2 and connected. It works.

    • MR60

      great!

  • MR60

    received today the 10" (0,5mm thick) cf from easycomposites.co.uk. Can start the brushless gimbal construction now.

    Update on expected weight with modifications and last data :

    -Carbon fiber tubes OD10mm instead of 16mm and 0,5 thickness (25g/meter) - total length 140mm : 3.5g instead of 9.79g

    -Motor plates & Mobius plate (Forrest's balsa sandwich instead of 3D print) : 4g instead of 12g

    -Motors : the design is made for the HK 2206 -140Kv motors : 30g instead of 32,4g (x2)

    -Epoxy glue : 2g (estimated). Used to glue CF tubes and motor plates to the tubes.

    ------------------------------------------

    Total weight for the brushless gimbal, motors included : 69.5g instead of intial design @ 88,59 g

    (and If Jon's tests of the motors @18g are conclusive, we could save an extra 24g, for a total weight of 45.5 g!!!)

    • I like the sound of 45.5g.

      Won't you need to move the roll motor nearer to pitch motor side to achieve balance if you fit the 1806 motors and thereby saving even more weight?

    • MR60

      Yes I will have to update the design. I will first modify the design because of the diameter reduction of the cf masts and using the hobbyking 2206 motors that are ready and then once you get the 1806 tested, will update to the optimal design.

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