Team-blacksheep have very nice frame for DJI-NAZA with some fancy PDB, but I don't have NAZA and I wanted some modification to mount APM2/2.5, so here is my version of that frame, no fancy PDB and PCBs, just black fiberglass :)
If you do have DJI NAZA go get that frame right NOW !
APM2.0 with 90° pins fits under the top plate with analog and telemetry pins exposed.
APM2.5 with ublox GPS.
Set the LED_MODE parameter to 9, It will slow blink when disarmed, solid armed, fast blink + beep on low battery.
The CG and the APM location moved a little bit, but it can fly as regular X quad. (don't pull back too much)
I just changed the AP_MotorsQuad.cpp X frame set-up to:
add_motor(AP_MOTORS_MOT_1, 55, AP_MOTORS_MATRIX_MOTOR_CCW, AP_MOTORS_MOT_2, 1);
add_motor(AP_MOTORS_MOT_2, -125, AP_MOTORS_MATRIX_MOTOR_CCW, AP_MOTORS_MOT_1, 3);
add_motor(AP_MOTORS_MOT_3, -55, AP_MOTORS_MATRIX_MOTOR_CW, AP_MOTORS_MOT_4, 4);
add_motor(AP_MOTORS_MOT_4, 125, AP_MOTORS_MATRIX_MOTOR_CW, AP_MOTORS_MOT_3, 2);
Setup
Motors: Tiger MS2212-13 980KV
ESC: jDrones 18A (Flashed with SimonK FW)
I really like the 10X5 Graupner e-props (or new Carbon 10X5 e-props) with 4S 3000mah lipo, after some fine-tuning its very sharp fly.
Here some raw clips from Arducopter 2.8.1 tuning flights:
BTW Jani from jDrones (that where I CNC all my custom frames ;) ) has put together fancy RTF kit, so check that one out.
EDIT:
The top outside hols for the arms are ~0.5mm off, I think so chek it before cuting.
Comments
Which thickness fiberglass plate did you use?
Smart design Yves - I my try something like that on my next quad (do you share the dxf file?)
Yes, 'I found it too. Very handy in the idea to put the ESC.
Here is the URL to the dxf file (I hope)
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=4640C2764D145450!933&auth...
Thanks for sharing! But I think the center plate points to the wrong file? (ESC_Legs_3.skp)
Image showing my ESC mount/legs
Thank you Bas Tijs
Here is my mod including the combined ESC mounts/Legs I have made.
In this image the tubes are 250mm long, I´m going to make them shorter - Next test I plan to try 190mm
I´ll try to share my files using skydrive:
ESC mount/Legs - Sketchup
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=4640C2764D145450!931&authkey=!ALUZvBrcSZMm1z4
CP - dxf
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=4640C2764D145450!932&authkey=!AJa3xtjJFsmZM6A
I´m working on a new frame based on this one, but with the motors in X quad position and 50cm motor - motor.
Love the modification Oyvind Amundsen made, I want one :)
For my TBS Discovery I changed the angles to this values: http://diydrones.com/forum/topics/offset-x-frame-configs-just-chang.... It flies well as you can see in my maiden flight video.
Do you guys know if the same result could have been achieved by manipulating the STB_RLL_I and STB_PIT_I settings (instead of set new angles). I am asking because the wiki says: "STB_RLL_I and STB_PIT_I are used to overcome imbalance in the copter. If the copter is not symmetrical this iterm will bring the copter to level." (However my TBS was not imbalanced before, and isn't it now.)
Hi!
Great frame, and thanks for sharing the dxf file.
I have modified the cp´s (hope that´s ok) so I can use 16mm carbone tubes and Mounts from flyduino.net
http://flyduino.net/FCP-HL-16mm-shells-for-Centerplate
http://flyduino.net/FCP-HL-16mm-shells-Motor-side
http://flyduino.net/FCP-HL-Motormount-Black-matt-v20
Have changed the holes to support MK style Controller, but that is simple to change back to APM2.X
In this image, I have used 25cm tubes.
I´ll share my dxf file, If anyone else want to test it/modifie it (send me a PM, I did not find a way to upload it here)