Hexa frame adventures continue !

 

This time I've prepared the power board that will distribute power to all 6 ESC's and to additional devices (video TX, camera controls receiver unit, tracking system TX, LEDs and more...)

 

Important issues were: Lightweight, simple, high current, fail-proof.

 

 

 

And as we all LOVE pictures:

 

 

the view on the following picture is the BOTTOM of the central plate.

yes, the power board will stay under the main plates. it will allow interference free environment for the electronics mounted ABOVE the plate. as well as don't pissing off the magnetometer with high currents flowing nearby.

 

 

 

cutting the stencil paper:

 

 

PCB pen drawing:

 

 

After a few minutes of dremel-ing:

 

 

and... there you go.... nasty copper etching :

 

in it's final position - with nylon standoffs (mmm... guess why):

 

 

a decent layer of tin solder applied:

 

 

 

and a final view with 1/6 ESC's mounted:

 

 

 

We like your comments..... :)

 

 

 

 

Views: 1627


Moderator
Comment by Gary Mortimer on April 29, 2011 at 5:19am

Funnily enough I am sat thinking about a hexa power board right now, I made myself a hexa out of G10 yesterday with my mate Robs help.

 

I shall think about your method, if I were you I would think about covering it in epoxy you would'nt want any shorting there.

Comment by ARHEXA on April 29, 2011 at 5:24am

:)

I'll probably use a thick transparecy sheet over it.

it's smarter to do it detachable and not permanent like epoxy...

Comment by d-creator on April 29, 2011 at 5:48am
there are isolating sparys on makret (even in israel). also good sourse of polycarbonate is plastic soft drink bottles. go green ;-)
Comment by Alex Lee on April 29, 2011 at 5:53am

You guys really amaze me with your machining. My limited shop, I can only cut plywood and square tubing.

Nice..

AR, I think the distro is doable in my shop from your tutorial.. I think i'll give that a go.


Moderator
Comment by Gary Mortimer on April 29, 2011 at 11:50am

Ok, here's my more traditional version. Will test it and then encapsulate the exposed connections in hot glue tomorrow.The soldering today took longer than making the frame.

 

Comment by ARHEXA on April 29, 2011 at 1:48pm

Gary,

your board is smaller and probably lighter. (i have many more 'appliances' to be connected other than ESC's)

wht i don't like is the T connectors... why add weight, resistance, potential failure point, etc....

 

I don't like much the hot glue idea on power electronics. hot glue doesn't like heat at all if you see what i mean.

also, for future soldering or modification, hot glue is a mess.

use heat shrinks.


Moderator
Comment by Gary Mortimer on April 29, 2011 at 2:59pm
I will use heat shrink on top of the lot. I agree its more failure points its a way to get into the air whilst we think of a much better easier to build solution for power distribution.
Comment by Alex Lee on April 29, 2011 at 4:40pm

AR, this is where i'll smile and grin with my terminal block. easy simple durable lots of accessories etc etc.

It's really not heavy at all. 10-15 grams.. guessing of course.

 

Comment by ARHEXA on April 29, 2011 at 11:18pm

Terminal blocks solution is great in my opinion,

until it comes to a final construction step of a professional vehicle.

if you keep it hobby and develop it all the time, OK,

but there isn't anything safer, lower resistance, and more sure than wire to wire solder.

and yes i know, my power board also could have been optimized more for lower resistance and lower weight, i'll maybe do that in the future...


Moderator
Comment by Gary Mortimer on April 29, 2011 at 11:26pm
@Alex I like

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