Not much space if you're going on holiday with the family in a Renault Clio. This design fits into a 52cm toolbox with transmitter and all accessories.
Just thought I'll share my crash resistant design that has evolved through many drops and repairs. On impact it is now usually just a matter of replacing a rivet or a prop. The electronics and battery can quickly be removed for installation on another airframe.
The props are 15" RC timers and as shown I get about 23min flight time with a slightly damaged 5000mAh 4cell Lipo at 1500m above sea level, 25 deg C.
The difference in spacing between front and rear props doesn't have a noticable effect on stability and it flies waypoints very well.
I'll post basic plans if anyone is interested or if you want an airframe let me know.
Update: Plans for the airframe
Comments
Are there any kits for a frame like this? This is the only I have seen that's somewhat similar:
http://www.goodluckbuy.com/h4-330-x466-folding-frame-quadcopter-air...
Another flyaway yesterday. Again while flying longish autonomous missions in a southerly direction with a crosswind. I'm on vacation and on arrival the compass only started working after recalibration. I suspect I should also have recalculated the compassmot values as they probably also got lost since my last test flights. Fortunately I found the copter, but only thanks to all the tracking systems, especially the GSM tracker. I could track it right into the office of the game lodge manager who had picked it up! Hint: always take a child with you when collecting your copter from someone else's property.
Yes, CG midway between front and back motors and try to keep some shielding between APM and ESC's/PDB. Here is picture of copter before flight. Damage after crash from 80m: 3 rivets and 1 prop.
Keep in mind the EMF if you're using Ardupilot 3.0.1
Having the APM too close to the ecs, battery, wiring may cause issues for loiter.
Got it, thank you. I'll do the mid-way c/g then.
I'm working on mounting my ESCs now. Wiring routing, clearance, and ESC mounting is actually a little more problematic than I had originally expected. I'll get it sorted out. I took a (better) how Murray run his wires...I did mine the exact opposite way. His way makes more sense so I'll redo mine. Maybe, Hopefully, I'll be (LOS) flight ready for this weekend...maybe...
According to the experts. You draw a line between the front two motors, and the back two motors. Then the halfway point between those two lines is where the flight controller goes. I got burned for thinking you draw an X between the motors.
I'm getting ready to mount the electronics on my frame. To verify, where exactly is the c/g? I'm used to using the cross sections where the diagonal lines cross from opposing motors. I saw mention earlier the c/g should be determined by the half-way point between the front and back motors. Which is (most) correct?
I just received my order from RCTimer. All I can say is WOW...those 5010 motors and 15" props are HUGE. I though the 10" props were big enough...these things dwarf the props I'm used to.
I've got my aluminum square tubing in hand as well as the cf round tubes for the arm. The last thing I need is the frame parts...which have been cut, but not sent to me yet. I'm going on vacation in another month. I hope I have this thing all together, tested, and vacation ready by then. This looks like a fun journey!!!
I like the flight 'box' Murray. The folding quad fits nicely.
I finally ordered the parts for my build. I found I already had some proper size c/f tube on hand...much thicker than the crossbow bolts. I've got some 1/2" sq aluminum tubing in the mail. I placed my order for the (yeah, I went with the 'stock' 360kv) RCTimer motors and 15" props. My props are different from the ones most seem to be using...more of a wider blade...might help with the added weight of my planned gimbal. I'm still waiting on getting a frame cut though.
I've found this kind of toolbox handy as you can also use it as a launching pad. Outside dimensions are 56x 27x24cm.
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