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I've been working on a new helicopter platform the last few months. Based on an MSH Protos heli which I chose because it's an extremely light weight platform, weighing in at only ~1200g without battery. It has a full belt drive which I much prefer to gears as it's quieter, lower vibration and more reliable. I've had a few problems with it because the belt drive makes a really awesome Van deGraaf generator... not a good thing on a UAV. But I solved that, and am conducting test flights now.


The flight controller is a modified PX4v1. I replaced the switching regulator with a MIC29300, so that I can run it on 2S direct with the servos. Main motor power is 4S 5000, typically this heli would run on 6S 3300. Using the MSH stretch kit and 465mm Spinblade Asymmetric blades. In otherwise standard form, this heli flew for 17 minutes on an old crusty battery, in -10C temperatures.

I have now added a subframe to hold an extra battery, FPV gear with a camera in the nose, and a vibration damped NADIR camera mount to be used for aerial mapping. The idea is to develop a mapping UAV that is superior to a multirotor, offering a valid alternative to a fixed wing for short to medium range missions. The VTOL capabilities would eliminate all the nastiness of catapults, and controlled-crash landings with onboard cameras in rugged areas.  Even the price is attractive at about $400 for the basic kit with motor and ESC (no servos).

Specifications show the advantage of a heli platform. This machine has an AUW including the batteries and camera of only ~3kg. It is 80m long, and about 15cm wide not including the extended legs, and 30cm high. The blades fold for easy transport, without requiring any lose wires or vibration-prone electrical connectors as a folding multirotor does. It actually looks much bigger on the table than it really is. This seems to be very good compared to multirotors I've seen with the same performance. (payload and duration)

Vibrations are always a problem with helis, but manageable with the right design and construction techniques.

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Arducopter really makes helis worthwhile. You could buy two entire heli systems including a Tx for the price of a single DJI Ace One non-waypoint controller.  Or 7 for the cost of a single Ace One waypoint enabled controller.  I strongly prefer the PX4 controller over the APM and Pixhawk, because it offers 32-bit performance in a small package that is easier to mount in a heli frame.

So does it work? I took it up for it's first photo tests yesterday, and it worked beautifully. Better than 80% photos are usable. It flies for 20 minutes in a hover with old, cold batteries (-5C). I'm hoping for closer to 30 minutes while actually moving (helis are more efficient moving than hovering), in warmer weather with new batteries.  It should have an easy cruising speed of 15 m/s with little or no reduction in flight time.  At 20 minutes, this would offer an 18km range, and 27 if it can do 30 minutes.  If you wanted to do FPV and not mapping, you could configure it with a 3rd battery in place of the SX260 and fly for... 30-45 minutes, and a range of up to 36km.  Top airspeed is still TBD, but probably 20-25 m/s.  

Wind penetration and stability is excellent compared to both multirotors and fixed-wing.  You could do a mapping mission in winds up to 40 km/h with little effect on stability or duration.

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If the success continues, I'm going to consider building a large gasser heli.  This would allow flight times up to 2 hours, or payloads on the order of 10 lbs for 30 minutes.  So you could map large areas, or even perform light duty spraying operations.  I'm thinking about local application of a herbicide for things like Giant Hogweed elimination, that sort of thing. Such a large heli does pose significant danger and should only be used in industrial, agricultural or remote areas.

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Comments

  • Joseph,  Don't do it.  From what I have read from Rob it won't go well.

    Regards,

    David R. Boulanger

  • Has anyone tried auto-tune on a traditional helicopter?

  • "Japan ArduCopter Group" member Nobuyuki made very compact trad heli.

    This great compact heli with HKPilot Mega mini.

    http://diydrones.com/group/japan-arducopter-group/forum/topics/apm-3

    Here is building blog. All Japanes written but many pictures will explain.

    http://nob-heli.blogspot.jp/search/label/HKpilot_mini

  • hello

    I would appreciate very much any advice about photography flights mapping. Such as the recommended height, speed, time between frames and anything else I have not thought about.

    Thank you.

  • Ok I've tuned the 800 and it works very well.  I'm pretty satisfied with the pixhawk so far.  Now onto fast forward flight.

  • Rob, It worked.  I re-tuned my pids on my 550 DFC (small heli but uses the same servos as the 800). 

    I pushed up the P gains.  I couldn't turn up the pitch too much.  I had to lower the I and get rid of the pit_FF until the tail stop it's slight oscillation after pitch changes. 

    It flies really smooth through flight plans, it loiters rock solid and lands without swirling to the touchdown pad.

    Generally it's the best it's flown.  I'm going to try to lock in the 800 the same way.  I'm optimistic.

    Can't wait until 3.2 is a little more polished.  The feature list is great.

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  • Ok, without seeing a log, my guess is that your stability gains are too low, so it's not achieving targets very well, and then the Loiter controller is getting messed up.

    I've actually seen this before on a guy with a quadcopter.  He had really low stability gains, and whenever flying missions, he had a really weird speed oscillation with like a few-second period.  Tightened up the stability pid tuning, and the auto problem went away.

  • Thanks for the help.

    For the oscillation, there is none in stabilize.  Loiter's the worst.  Auto is a little effected but it happens in loiter when the craft has been in the same position for a few seconds so I usually don't notice it auto  because it's not still for long periods of time.

    I'll try your suggestions.

    I stopped increasing the P gains when I was comfortable with the handling but I can increase them a little.  

    I terms I can increase.

  • Does it do it only in Loiter or Auto, or also in Stabilize?

    None of these are silver bullets but:

    I normally turn down Loiter P to 0.500, you have it at 1.100 right now.  I feel it's a bit softer if it's lower, and that might be what you want.

    I think your Stabilize Pitch might be too high.  Try turning it down to 3.5 as well.  

    Your Rate I-terms are all too low.  I'd be running at least 0.2, possibly up to 0.5

    Roll and Pitch Rate P seem low, is that as high as you can get them?

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