Part Two: Here is the original picture of the finished product:

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This is the second part of a 2-part series on 'How to build a High-Definition FPV UAV using a Raspberry PI with HD camera, using a high speed WiFi link.

In my first post on the subject (located here), I discussed the parts I used, and how to install them into a Hobby King Go-Discover FPV model. 

In this post, I will discuss installing the Raspberry PI and the PI camera in the Go-Discover gimbals, and the software configuration for both the Raspberry PI and the ground station PC.

From the previous post, step 3 was completed by installing the Ubiquity Rocket M5 in the model.  Now onto step 4:

Step 4: Install the Raspberry PI and PI Camera

Here is a photo of the position of the PI in the Go-Discover model:

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The PI fits nicely just behind the camera gimbals, with the USB and HDMI ports on top. In the right side you can see the Cat5 network cable attached. This cable connects to the ethernet switch, which is also connected to the Rocket M5 input port.  

The two cables shown on top are the servo control wires for the gimbals, which I have directly connected to channel 4 and 5 on my radio.  I am using channel 4 (normally the rudder stick on my radio. Since there is no rudder on a flying wing, this is a convenient channel to use to move left and right with the camera. I have not (yet) moved to a head tracker, but if you already have that setup, just assign the channels accordingly.

To install the PI camera, remove the stock plate from the gimbals (for a GoPro), and mount the PI camera as shown in this photo:

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The PI camera case fits very nicely into the slot, and again I used a small piece of velcro to hold it down. You could use a couple of small screws instead if you want a more secure hold.  The two gimbals servos are also shown here. They are simple to install, just follow the Go-Discover instructions.

Here is a front view of the PI camera installed:

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Here is the block diagram describing all the connections:

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Some comments on my previous post suggested that it is possible to eliminate the ethernet switch and serial-to-ethernet converter using the Raspberry PI and a serial port on the PI. I believe this post describes how to talk to the PI via the NavLink, but in this case, I want to use the PI to bridge the connection from the ground station to the APM/PixHawk. Somebody please comment on this if you know more about it.   I believe it would require a TCP/IP to serial link from the PI to the telemetry port on the APM, and some software on the PI to act as the bridge.  The main connection to the ground station is via the Rocket M5 and TCP/IP, not through a telemetry link (900 Mhz or Zigbee like I used on my other models).

Step 5: Getting it all to work with software configuration (the really fun part starts now).

Check out this post on what others have done with streaming and the PI.  My experiments showed that using GStreamer on both the PI and on Windows gives really good results with very low latency, if you use the right parameters. 

Get GStreamer on the PI by following this blog.   This is the same version of GStreamer that I am using on my setup. 

Make sure your PI camera works ok by plugging in the PI to a standard monitor using the HDMI port and follow the instructions on the Raspberry PI website on how to get the camera up and running (without GStreamer).  Once you have a working PI and camera, you can then proceed to stream things over the network.  

Note: It is suggested that you first get the PI streaming video by plugging it directly into your local network where you can also connect your ground station PC with the correct IP addresses (without the Rocket M5).   For my PI, I picked 192.168.1.2,  and for the ground station, 192.168.1.1.    Make sure you can ping the PI from your PC and the PC from the PI.  

For streaming, you will also have to make sure all the ports you intent to use are open on the firewall (described later).

For the ground station PC,  you can download GStreamer here.  Make sure when you install, select to install everything , or full installation (not the default). 

Here is the command I use for the PI to pipe the camera output to GStreamer:

raspivid -t 0 -w 1280 -h 720 -fps 30 -b 1700000 -o - | gst-launch1.0 -v fdsrc ! h264parse config-interval=1 ! rtph264pay ! udpsink host = 192.168.1.1 port= 9000

The command is explained as follows:

raspivid is the command to start the camera capture on the PI.  The -w switch is for the width in pixels, and the -h switch is for the height.  In this case, I am using 1280 X 720, but you can try any combination that fits your needs. 

The -b switch is the bit rate for the sampling. In this case I chose 1.7mbs to send over the stream. Again you can experiment with higher or lower values. This settings seems to work good for me, and the latency is almost unnoticeable.  

the "-o - |" is piping the output to gstreamer.  Make sure you include the dash before the pipe "|" symbol. 

For the GStreamer command, all the filters are separated with an exclamation point "!", as these are individual drivers that are part of GStreamer.  Since the PI has hardware accelerated video, the output is in a format called "H264", which is a highly-compressed stream. The GStreamer filters are configured to transport the output via a UDP socket connection to the target PC. Notice the 'udpsink' element which specifies the host - in this case your ground station, and the UDP port.  I am using port 9000, but you can use any open port on your system, but be sure to open the firewall or it won't work!  You can also use TCP instead of UDP, but for such a data stream, I chose to use UDP since dropouts are certainly possible, and with UDP this is ok, but with TCP, you could have socket problems and higher latency. 

Note: to get the PI to execute this command on boot, make a shell script with the above command and add it to your local.rc boot sequence. That way when the PI boots, you get the stream without having to log into the PI remotely. 

For the ground station PC, once you have installed GStreamer and opened the correct ports, use this command (from the command prompt) to view the stream:

c:\gstreamer\1.0\x86_64\bin\gst-launch-1.0 udpsrc port=9000 ! application/x-rtp,encoding-name=H264,payload=96 ! rtph264depay ! avdec_h264 ! videoconvert ! autovideosink

If all goes well, you should see the PI camera output on your PC screen in a popup window.  For those of you what want to use FPV goggles, you can connect to the HDMI port on your PC to display the output if your goggles support HDMI. 

I have this command in a batch file (with a PAUSE) statement at the end to keep the window open.

WHEW!  If you got this far, you are amazing. 

The last step to complete the build is to connect to the APM from mission planner.  The method I used to connect was to install a utility that converts a TCP connection to a virtual serial port, but I also think that directly connecting the mission planner to the TCP port will also work, however I have not tried it. I will post back later after trying it.

Here is the link to setup the serial to ethernet device to have an IP address and port.

Here is the link to the configuration utility for installing the virtual serial port.   

Once you have a serial connection over TCP/IP working to the APM, you should be able to connect with Mission Planner. On the maiden flight, it worked perfectly, and I didn't see a single drop in the telemetry data or anything noticeable in the video transmission, however my first flight was limited to 2km.

The last step is to connect the Rocket M5 to the Nano M5 and test everything using the OTA (over the air) connection. If all is well, you are ready to fly!  But be careful on your maiden, you just spent $700. 

Finally, here is a photo of my Antenna Tracker with the Nano M5 attached. My next update will include a video of a longer flight.  

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Happy Flying!

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Comments

  • I have used and Odroid and C920 and using FFMPEG as the encoder on the Odroid and FFMPLAY as the player on a windows laptop I got approx 100 - 200 ms delay which was, IMHO, flyable.  If I used VLC as the player then the delay was up to 2 seconds.

    I have not tried Gstreamer as the delay I am getting from FFMPEG is perfectly acceptable for what I am doing which is SAR work not FPV.

    The C920 does do H264 compression however over wifi the non compression of FFMPEG is much faster and the bandwidth is acceptable for the 720p I am running.  If I need 1080p I then switch to H264 compression on the camera using Derek Malloys capture program as per his description.  The bandwidth for 1080p drops to 3M or so but the latency goes way up.  Again perfectly acceptable for me as I am not flying with it just looking out.  The Pixhawk flies it perfectly well without any input from myself.

  • i agree with you,  the pi camera is the no go on our setup, we have to find a way to use a "real" camera. Hope we will get more tester with other single boards : humminboard, odroid, minnowboard and why not  the microsoft shark cove. I guess our holy grail would be to plug a gopro and get 100ms latency.

  • @bocorps AFAIK the C920 only does 720p@30 fps, if latency is the game, fps matter :-) The joker is if it is possible to encode on the Odroid, perhaps can even be done without specific hardware, just with x264 encoder with the zerolatency flags, but don't know how strong the quad arm is for such a task. After playing around with the RPi camera, it seems the CSI port and ribbon cable is very sensitive. I think a USB cable would be much more robust..
  • Stephen Gloor, who did some comments here few weeks ago, used an Odroid+logitech C920 usb camera. If you remember he was positive about this combo

  • I kinda like the idea of a separate flight controller, to do RTH in case something breaks. Perhaps just have the RPi or similar talk over serial or evrm USB with the flight controller. I like the Sparky, if I didn't already own a couple of CC3Ds I would go for it. http://buildandcrash.blogspot.dk/2013/05/sparky-testing-and-buildin...
    Fairly cheap also.. http://m.ebay.com/itm/311216552971?nav=SEARCH
  • I would be interested to know the latency of the USB camera/Odroid combo. Anybody used this solution? 

  • Sorry no, considering trying the Odroid C1, and a 60fps 720p USB cam. But should probably get flying with the RPi first.. http://hardkernel.com/main/products/prdt_info.php
    http://m.ebay.com/itm/321566843964?cmd=VIDESC
  • Has anybody tried the PC-Duino board as an alternative to the Raspberry PI?  

    http://www.pcduino.com/pcduino-v3/

    http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/83-16471

    The specs are better than the PI, and it could improve the latency below 100ms (in theory).  Not sure about the size differences, but maybe it's worth a shot. It would sure be nice if there was a board that could do everything, including the flight controller and video. Something like this could be a potential solution.

  • @Michael K,  You can build these helical antennas yourself. I purchased two RHCP antennas and re-wound one of them to be LHCP, but you can DIY if you don't want to spend $50 per antenna.  Basically, it's a 1cm pole with 15 turns on 1 cm spacing. This is for 5ghz. You would need to change the size of the pole for lower frequencies.  

  • this usb adapter actually works in both frequency.Tilman (openfpv projet holder) use it with success.

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