I have been searching high and low for a good affordable large hexa system, with the main objective to lift 500gr (camera, FPV transmitter, etc) for as long as possible, and have the video stabilized.
The S800 looked ok, but due to some issues around the boom flexibility and cost, I ditched that idea. The Carbon Core, Steadidrone H6X also looked very nice, but once again cost played a big role.
So, I stumbled across the Tarot T810, for $330 I got the frame. I needed to add some extras for folding landing gear (not retract) and the camera rail mount which was not included.
I'm doing a build log to not only "hopefully" help someone out there, but also have a place to get some input from the community in getting the max flight time. The Hexa will be used for local security missions and possibly also help in the Rhino Poaching crises we're facing in South Africa.
My system:
- Tarot T810 Frame
- Sunnysky 4112S 400kv
- 40 Turnigy Plush
- 15X4.7" props
- APM (of course!) - Looking forward to a maiden flight on AC3rc6
- Martinez gimbal controller
- Brushless Gimbal
- Gens Ace 6S 5500Mah X 2
- Estimated AUW including gimbal and camera - 5.3kg
The frame went together nicely, only issue I had was the hole in one of the landing gear braces was skew, I just drilled it straight with a bigger drill bit.
Here is a view of the frame in it's folded position. It folds nice and small - about 900mm in length
Here are the motors I'm planning to use, hopefully I get my flight time. Powerrrr! Notice the ESC mounting plates under the motor mount.
I like the prop attachment.
I also like the way the booms lock in place with a dovetail clamp, very secure.
Here is a shot of the little power distribution "lugs" - I just soldered all the power wires in place with huge amounts of solder.
I'm planning to install the ESC's under the motors, I have read about some scare stories on RCGroups about this idea, but I have never personally had problems with this.
I am however a little concerned about the wire gauge for power - using 16AWG to the motors and 12AWG to the battery. I'll do a full power test to see if they heat up, and by how much.
I'm wating for my ESC's to arrive, and will continue the log once they're here!
Comments
I have a few questions about your build...Did you add any sort of capacitor in order to route power to the apm controller or is that being powered with a smaller battery? also how many channels is your controller?
This may have already been covered in this build log (BAD A$$ build BTW)...
What made you go with the 400 KV motors as opposed to the Tarot 320 KV motors? I am still new at this, but I am seriously considering the T810 with APM 2.6 as a AP/FPV platform. I just purchased a Talon 625mm frame to build and now I am wishing I'd waited and just gone the Tarot direction.
hi Tony
I couldnt get a 10amp 5w resistor so I used two 5amp 5 w
my motors are multistar 400kv 40amp multistar esc opto with two capacitors soldered on each
and 2 6000 6s lipos and I get no spark at all and no naza reporting battery low voltage due to resistor at start up
hope this helps
stu
@stubugs can you give us a little info on your set up, what size resister is used ? thanks it looks simple and clean.
Nicely done, and I think I'll do mine your way next time!
Finnally don't need arch welding glasses works a treat
Cheers
Must of used the wrong resistor before
Brian, yes a "bleed" resistor is added to trickle away the charge on big capacitors, preventing unpleasant surprises later (when maintenance people think the circuit is not powered). It's mandatory on high voltage DC such as CRT displays (thousands of volts). Multirotor power is generally safe when it comes to human electrical shock (6s is well below the UL 60950-1 limit of 60VDC). But those ESC capacitors altogether can still store quite a punch. Fortunately, the multirotor's on-board load (e.g., converters in the ESCs and BECs) will drain the capacitors quickly after the battery pack is disconnected. The ESCs/BECs effectively act as our bleed resistor, continuing to operate and draw significant current until the voltage drops too low. In the blink of an eye, the energy is dissipated.
I know a lot of circuit designers place a resistor across the large capacitors to slowly reduce the voltage so there is not a large transient when things are connected or risk of someone getting shocked. I'm thinking this could also be a solution to this problem.
Yes, William, that's exactly what I'm doing. But there are other options. This separate adapter is a bit fiddly and I might lose it (not a crisis).
As a retrofit I might add small wires (16 or 18 gauge) to the power bus, put a 3W resistor in-line (mounted someplace safe and vented), and add another battery plug (can be a low-current type that is lighter and easier to disconnect). I like the EC5 connectors for never coming apart accidentally, but they can hold too strong when I'm trying to disconnect.... Ideas welcome! I'll at least see how hot the 3W 10-ohm get, in case a lower value is better.
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