You'll need 4 rubber rings ~1.5-2cm diameter, ( used on prop-savers ) and 4 M3x10mm Spacers.
Just squeeze it through the hole:
and lock it on the spacer:
you can use 4 extra spacers and mount the top plate:Good flying to you all :)
You'll need 4 rubber rings ~1.5-2cm diameter, ( used on prop-savers ) and 4 M3x10mm Spacers.
Just squeeze it through the hole:
and lock it on the spacer:
you can use 4 extra spacers and mount the top plate:Good flying to you all :)
You need to be a member of diydrones to add comments!
Comments
Has this setup been tested in cold weather? I'm wondering if the rubber rings get hard and lose their benefits.
Great idea, clear fiberglass attenuates GPS signal hardly at all radomes are made from fiberglass.
In response to top plate attenuating GPS signal Black could be a problem as the pigment is carbon which absorbs RF and is used in Stealth airplanes for exactly that reason.
Some plastics even clear (Polycarbonate, Lexan) do attenuate RF somewhat.
The vast majority of plastics consist primarily of carbon long chain molecules but each plastic has its own RF absorption and attenuation characteristics.
I think that this sort of suspension mount for the APM needs to have enough tension to keep the board from noticeable movement when experiencing fast flight maneuvers to prevent significant control lag, but the primary isolation provided is still going to be good for high frequency damping and impact damage resistance from hitting the ground too hard.
Yep thats the way we have been doing it for years on the Heli's, Good old rubber gromits !
This is my solution...
Just double-stick foam tape. Seems to work okay. You can drill holes and screw it on the plate if you want.
Chris,
How do you mount the APM2 on the plate? Tape, velcro? I have found that tape and velcro still allow the APM to move a bit since the bottom of the APM doesn't provide a constant flat surface to apply tape/velcro to.
Any chance the rubber bands can pop off the posts, in flight? Does seem to be a lot of overhang on those retaining slots.
I use this one. Seems to work well:
Tried a variation of this o-ring method and I still seem to get too much vibration on the APM 2. I installed rubber grommets on standoffs which provide mounting points for the o-rings on the main plate. The o-rings then attach to a smaller plate which the APM is mounted to, sitting on foam and tape.
Is there any sense of how much tension the o-rings should be loaded to? In other words, should the o-rings have any slack?
Vibration tests show marginal improvements, but I still have drifting issues.
Sounds promising then! Yes, I have tried to eliminate my vibe prob at the source (prop balancing and motor balancing), but my wide end-balled motors and cheap mounts are pretty much impossible to eliminate vibes completely.
It's a learning experience!