5 FLIGHTS TO NOWHEREFLIGHT #1The severe wind storm crashed us real good into another roof.Fortunately accessible by foot. Obviously either 40mph wind is abovelimits or you need to tilt the engines.FLIGHT #2Aft propeller wouldn't spin. The crash must have damaged the propellerso it wouldn't grab the crown nut.FLIGHT #3Aft propeller wouldn't spin again. The roof crash stripped the crownnut. Maybe crown nuts can be damaged & have a finite life.
Decided the best move was to make a complete set of new crown nuts.
Since they're not sold anywhere, here's how to make them.
Tin the lock washer & nut by heating for a long time & tacking solder.Eventually the solder naturally flows between the tack points.
Sandwich them together. Remove excess solder with a knife.FLIGHT #4
The wind storm created so much debris, taking off anywhere shredded thepropellers. There was no safe takeoff position anywhere. By then itwas time to get back on our commute.
Finally discovered the lock nuts were asymmetric & the tail rotor wasusing the wrong side all this time. This fact was only visible at highmagnification & makes you wonder what good lock nuts are if they onlylock 1 side.FLIGHT #5With the lock nut issue finished, the tail motor was now stalling & theESC was overheating. Obviously a broken winding. Major Marcy got usback in the air but it was only a matter of time before Chinese qualitystruck back.
The high resolution photos revealed nothing obvious. Swapped ESC's &sure enough, it was the ESC.
A resistor dropped right out. There's the Suppo ESC with missingresistor.
& there it is with the resistor resoldered. Though as marginallysoldered as humanly possible, the Suppo did take a direct hit rightwhere the resistor was.
The aft ESC on Vika 1 takes a beating when landing on concrete.
MORE PROPELLER CRACKS
The latest thinking on propeller cracks is they're caused by a buildupof threadlock on the crown nuts making the plastic brittle.MEET MARCY 1Meanwhile, in brief fits of highly condensed etching & soldering betweencommutes, Marcy 1 takes shape.
The ground station & flight computer. FYI, never blend pads & fillareas.
Stick to programing or coding or what ever you guys call it, and leave the mechanical stuff to the professionals.
Or at least get a bigger hammer :)
Or maybe use an AXI $60 motor with the proper prop. You may be over torquing the prop. Are you measuring
motor current? Your pushin the limits maybe? I would like to learn how you make those boards.
Jack try a glass filled prop from APC, I use two plain nuts locked by wrenches then a 12mm washer, the prop with APC spacer installed, add a silicone rubber tubing cut 2mm longer than hole in prop. This will form a lock when front washer is tight, add 2nd 12mm washer, plain nut & tighten then add nyloc lock nut. this Never slips.
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Or at least get a bigger hammer :)
Or maybe use an AXI $60 motor with the proper prop. You may be over torquing the prop. Are you measuring
motor current? Your pushin the limits maybe? I would like to learn how you make those boards.