I've now gone around one full circle on the UAV wheel: I built her, flew her, and crashed her. It has been great fun so far and I can't wait to get in the air again. Before I do, however, I thought I would write something so that other beginners could learn from my mistakes.

 

Anticipation and Assembly


I decided sometime last April to buy an ArduCopter spent several months in breathless anticipation. I got home from Antarctica early this January to find the package had arrived and feverishly started building. A few little issues I encountered during construction:

 

- When connecting the ESCs to the power distribution board, the wiki guide advised me to solder them directly on. My ESCs had Deans connectors on them, so I chopped them off and soldered them on per the wiki instructions. Only later did I find the electronics assembly PDF, which advised soldering female deans connectors to the power board so that the ESCs could be disconnected. After finishing the copter, I found four female deans connectors in my kit which were for this purpose and wished I had followed the PDF rather than the wiki, so that I would have easily removable ESCs.

- The method for mounting the ESCs and dealing with the motor wires is unclear in the wiki instructions. This is probably because there are so many ways to do it, and also different types of arms. In the end, I velcroed my ESCs to the curved plastic supports of the protective dome, braided my motor wires, and wrapped them around the quad arms to take up the slack. In theory I guess the motor wires could go through the inside of the arms, but the arms that came with my kit had "half holes" i.e. they only have the slots for the wires on one side of each arm. Also, the slits for wire insertion are at the very end of the rods, so the motors mount right on top of the slits and it seems difficult to get the wires into the slits as the plastic motor screws are in the way. Not sure how this is supposed to work, it seems like maybe the "wires inside the arms" idea was abandoned during the design at some point.

- I cranked down too hard on one of the screws for the motor mounts, and cracked one of the thin clear plastic pieces below the motor and arm. This comes back to haunt me later in this blog entry!

- I forgot to solder 5 of the pins on the 6-pin header that connects the ArduPilot with the ArdIMU. This had the surprising result that the ArdIMU worked, but only in CLI mode. I was quite embarrassed when Sebastian on the forum suggested I check my soldering and it became clear why the ArdIMU was not initializing in normal mode!

 

First and second "flights"

Once I'd figured out my new Turnigy 9x and finished calibrations, I headed out to a nearby field with a couple of friends. After a good deal of testing I gritted my teeth and eased up the throttle. The hum whirred into a buzz and then... two of the propellers popped off, launched high into the air!

It reminded me of the Gemini test scenes in the movie The Right Stuff. I scratched my head for a while and eventually concluded that, unlike the motor mount screws, you really need to crank down on the propeller attachment chuck.

 

Props securely fastened, I tried again. This time, the copter got 3m up into the air and began to fly away from me quite quickly. Thinking I would bring it down and consider a recalibration, I eased off on the throttle. Cindi Lou (that's the copter's name)  descended a few feet while still drifting away from me and then promptly flipped over at a little under 1m from the ground and attacked the grass! My friends tried to contain their laughter as I inspected the damage, which was disabling but not catastrophic: cracks in the top and bottom plastic sections of the forward motor mount. Here are a few photos of the damage, and a video of both attempts. 3689385970?profile=original

 

Recovery

 Eager to get back in the air, I ordered the $30 crash kit from the Fah Pah store. I would have preferred to order from DiyDrones (since they're in the US, not Thailand) but it seems they only sell full replacement frames and replacement arms. Not content to wait for delivery, I picked up some plastic repair epoxy from Ace Hardware and set about mending the motor mount. It looks fairly solid, but I'm not sure if I would be jeopardizing the rest the Cindi Lou should I attempt to fly on the repaired mount. My impatience to fly again is competing with my better judgment here...


Lessons learned

I'm not certain whether the crashed was caused by my poor construction job, or my poor piloting. I wonder if the pre-existing crack in the bottom motor mount section contributed to the crash. Either way, the crack in the top section was certainly caused on impact with the ground. One take-away message is to tighten the propeller chucks hard, but not the motor mount screws. Perhaps a more important one is to make sure the copter's horizontal motion has stopped entirely before attempting to land!

 


E-mail me when people leave their comments –

You need to be a member of diydrones to add comments!

Join diydrones

Comments

  • Oops, got my John / Jonathan mixed up, John D is the stickler to whom I referred. Really irresponsible of you guys to post on the same thread, considering your name collision! Sheesh :-)
  • 3692155194?profile=originalJohn, yeah, my power connector to the power dist board is quite loose, obviously it would be a problem if that came out in midair! Again, I wonder if we got slightly different parts -- My right angle pin connector has very little clearance (less then 5mm) and this means the headers that use the bottom row don't quite click in. At the moment I have electrical tape on it. Maybe I will solder to the board and put in a better connector.

    Jonathan, I got two Turnigy 2200 25C batteries, and one lightmax 4400 15C. I got the lightmax when i didn't know about discharge rates -- I hear you need at least 25C for flights. Combined with the extra weight of the 4400 I doubt that battery is flightworthy but maybe someday I will be cavalier enough to try it. I got a SkyCharger B6AC which is excellent (computer interface, temp sensor, balancing, works with lots of other cell chemistries) although not cheap.

    John, there is no visible corrosion on the outside of my Turnigy RX, but when I opened it up (trying to figure out where the damn bind LED was!) I faintly remember seeing a little corrosion on the joints at the bottom of the board. I ignored this at the time, might have another look at it. In case anyone is wondering, the bind LED is on the top of the board inside the housing and does just about shine through the somewhat translucent black enclosure plastic when it's on (if you're not in bright light). Strange design there though.

    Jonathan, I wish there were more sticklers like you out there. Stuff would certainly break less.

     

     

  • Aaron, I haven't done anything extra to hold those pin connectors on. They seem pretty tight (as far as pin connectors go) on my quad, it takes a deliberate pull to get them to come off. If yours are loose then I'm not sure how to fix that.

    On that same-ish subject, I noticed you have the Turnigy 9x as well and wondered if you noticed any corrosion on the receivers servo/power pins. Mine looked pretty nasty so I wound up taking the receiver apart, cleaning the pcb, hot gluing the antenna solder joint and then conformal coating the board. Do I sound paranoid? Lol! Just something to watch for, as I've heard that Turnigy isn't really known for their fantastic quality control.

    Hey Jonathan, I've got (2) Turnigy 2650 mAh (20-30c Discharge) batteries and a Turnigy Accucell 6 to charge them up. So far everything is working just fine.

  • Also a first-time builder here... Anyone recommend a battery and charger?
  • John, great to hear about your flying success!

    One more question for you: how do you ensure that the pin connectors coming off of the ArdIMU (inputs, outputs, power) are connected securely? Those seem to be the weakest link on my copter.
  • Thanks Ground Loop. It's Dupli-Color Gold and Dupli-Color MetalCast Purple. Both on top of Dupli-Color MetalCast Ground Coat. Got them all at O'Reillys Autoparts. I think it turned out fantastic!

    On a side note I just got back from a handful of short flights and all of them ended in right-side-up landings and zero snapped nylon screws! This was my first time out since completely removing the bullet connectors and there were no random flips. IMHO, remove the bullets! :-)

    Also, just ordered my magnetometer!

  • Also, regarding GPS cables -- the GPS Unit itself (MTK) comes with a Short cable. I think this is just for testing? The Arducopter kit includes a longer cable as well, and you should use that one instead of the Short cable.

    I hacked up the short cable to make an FTDI firmware-loading jig.
  • I'm going to do the same -- remove all my mangled (soldered-into) bullet connectors and go direct wire-to-wire. I suspect some of mine are not fully in the cup either. And -- Less weight! I'll keep the Deans ESC power connectors, though, since they're already finished and solid.

    How did you tint the aluminum arms? Is that paint or anodizing? Looks great.
  • You're very welcome. That page is real easy to over-look, especially since mounting the motors to the arms is also covered on the big "Setting up your airframe" page. I did a forehead slap when I finally looked at it.

    Yes, I completely removed the motor to esc bullets. I originally tried soldering the bullets solid, but then found 3 wires that were loose INSIDE the cups of the bullets. That may have been caused by me when I heated the whole thing up to solder the bullets solid but who knows. It's going to be a major pain if/when I have to take it apart but I just feel safer this way. I'm sure someone out there makes some high quality 3 pole connectors...something to upgrade to in the future. :-)

    Thanks for the kind words! Yes the ESCs are zip-tied to the dome arms. I must admit, I am rather smitten with this flying machine.

    3692155083?profile=original

  • John, thanks for pointing out that page with the great arm assembly images . Somehow I missed it entirely during construction, or I would have realized that my arms are definitely all backwards (another commenter noticed this too)!

    It would be nice not to rely on bullet connectors in the air, but I feel better about Deans connectors, which is what came on my ESCs. Out of curiosity, did you do away with the motor to ESC bullet connectors as well? Those are a little shaky the way I have them set up, but will probably be just fine once I get the wires going through the arms.

    Also, I just have to say that your purple and gold arducopter is HOT. Do you have a larger photo so I can see what you did with the ESCs exactly (looks like they are cable tied to the arms)?

This reply was deleted.