Arducopter Y6 Owners


Arducopter Y6 Owners

This is where we discuss all things related to the 3DR Arducopter Y-6, from Tuning, to issues, to mods.

Members: 323
Latest Activity: 4 hours ago

Discussion Forum

Where to position my sonar

Started by Felipe Rabat. Last reply by Felipe Rabat on Monday. 22 Replies

I noticed during the last few flights, I noticed that the sonar altitude was not working adequatly.  I started doing research, and looking at the logs, it seems I have too much noise, and looking at…Continue

New Y6b owner with transmitter troubles

Started by Jeff Shoults. Last reply by wendell austria Jun 24. 1 Reply

I will try to be concise and accurate. I purchased a fully assembled and calibrated Y6b with a Turnigy 9xr mode 1 transmitter. Job number one was to mechanically change it to a mode 2 by swapping the…Continue

Modified Y6

Started by Doug Walmsley. Last reply by Steve Murray Jun 9. 24 Replies

How many of you are not happy with the landing gear for your Y6?  I bought my 3DR kit last winter and mounted the Tarot 2D gimbal platform but after a hard landing and a broken gimbal mount, I…Continue

Canopy for Y6?

Started by Steve Murray. Last reply by Steve Murray Jun 1. 4 Replies

Hi,I'm about to start building a Y6 using a 3DR frame kit and the Pixhawk/Power System from my Tarot FY680. Please excuse the trivial question - has anyone come across a canopy that will fit (or can…Continue

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Comment by wendell austria on June 23, 2015 at 8:50pm

Iv'e had my right top motor go out on y6b without any issues during a long flight .... the bottom motor took over so smoothly i didn't even notice it went out until it got close enough to notice ... even didn't notice anything on my fpv monitor during the whole flight and video was smooth as i have 2 builds with the pixhawk and picked up a Iris+ for my kids to start off with.

Comment by Felipe Rabat on June 18, 2015 at 7:14am

A couple of things: 

(1) I have found out that for take off, it is better to gun it (not FULL throttle, but enough to get it into the air quickly) than to slowly creep the throttle up.  When you slowly creep up the throttle, there is a good chance it will roll in one direction or the other.

(2) I had a 3DR ESC that was bad from day 1.  3DR replaced it with no cost to me, so service was good, but my point is do not assume that just because things are new they are not bad.

(3) Check that everything is connected the way it should be.  I had 4 motors wired wrong, and since they cancelled each other, the only symptom was poor yaw, but during take off, it would tilt.

(4) During my last flight (before I crashed - well, let's rephrase that; before I landed it at about twice the permitted descend rate), I did have a pulsating sound in my ship.  It flew just fine, and the telemetry was perfect, so I just thought it was an out of balance prop (it could have been).  Once I finished upgrading my Y6, I will have to check my motors and ESC to make sure they are all up to spec (I have a spare motor and a spare ESC, so if anything is suspect, it is coming out).

Comment by James A on June 18, 2015 at 2:28am

Craig it could be one of the motors or even multiple, I had the same issue although it was normally in one direction. Turned out to be two bad motors, the only way I new was a pulsing sound when going beyond about 40% throttle followed by running up all motors individually with props on (take care) and finding two would just stop going any faster and start making the pulsing sound after about 40% throttle. If you had one bad motor then you can easily fly once it's off the ground so you may not notice it. Of course if it is this then it may be an esc rather than a motor. This issue had me foxed for ages but once I replaced the motors it fixed the issue.

Here's my original thread. 

Comment by Doug Walmsley on May 25, 2015 at 2:29pm

Well as you know DG, I've spent a lot of time configuring my modified Y6B to use 690Kv pancake motors for performance and cooling and 1247 on top and 1347 on bottom and have found at the moment the best configuration for me.  It really boils down to cost vs benefit.  Since there is no out of the box design that is optimal, you really do spend time and money experimenting on the best configuration.  

I feel 3DR's Y6B as it is works fine with their motor and propeller configuration, but adding additional accessories/weight to it changes the delicate balance of their design thus requiring you to develop alternatives which I did to mitigate the overheating issue on the lower motors.  This also could explain why 3DR stopped developing and supporting their Y6 design for the most part.

Unfortunately there is no other sites in the internet that helps people to develop their designs other than Ecalc which hasn't perfected their coaxial data but is a good tool for evaluating many frame/power plant configurations.

Comment by DG on May 25, 2015 at 8:40am

So the question of the day for DIY coaxials is.....

How much time and money are you willing to spend to get the perfect combination?

Comment by DG on May 25, 2015 at 8:37am

I did some reading, then had a discussion with the guys at Ecalc about this:  and started a discussion at RCG

There many variables here.  Leonard Hall did testing for 3DR before the Y6B was released and explains why the 10x4.7 top/bottom combination was chosen.

One of the variables that has a large effect on coaxial performance, at least from my observations, is the axial distance between the top/bottom props. 

The current configuration on my Spy 750 is 15x5 top 14x7 bottom. A month or so ago I bought some 15x6 for the bottom, did a AT but didn't test much, and unfortunately chipped one of the 15x6 and put the 14x7 back on.

During all this, I made changes in the parameters based on statements by Leonard and didn't keep good track of them so decided yesterday to go with a fresh install of 3.3 rc5 and start from scratch.

The latest Auto Tune improvements really shined, and the pwm results are this

One of the biggest advantages I've observed with the current configuration is it is more difficult to produce the Vortex Ring State on faster descent. A concern is if the copter will fly with 5 motors should one fail. I haven't tested that.

However to be totally candid, I think the ultimate solution is a combination of things to test, which I don't really care to do, that being:

1) testing different axial distances between the props. Using the prop adapters to accommodate the Xoar props increased the distance which appeared to help.

2) using different kv motors top/bottom

3) combining 1 & 2 with trying multiple props sizes and pitches.

So many degrees of freedom here. So for now my Y6 flies well, the motors are cool as cucumbers top/bottom, but is not as efficient as I'd like.

At some point I may try some good CF props (TM or Foxtech Supreme), but the cost would be more than what I paid for the motors as using the same size/pitch on top/bottom on this Y6 makes for poor performance!

As I stated in the RCG discussion, Marco Robustini probably had it right:

   Interesting discussion, I follow with interest.
Personally I abandoned coaxial configurations because they have only an advantage in my opinion, good thrust considering the small size compared to a flat, all the rest are only disadvantages.

Comment by Felipe Rabat on May 25, 2015 at 5:52am

I have always heard about the larger prps being on the bottom.  What is the advantage of having them on top?

Comment by DG on May 24, 2015 at 7:43pm

I'm happy to report my cantankerous Spy 750 Y6 is now a wonderful machine to fly with the latest Auto Tune.

It now has Xoar 15.5 props on top, 14x7 bottom. The handling and stability even in wind is very good. The Xoars aren't as efficient as TM, but I can get nearly any prop size/pitch to experiment with and not break the bank doing it.

Comment by Stone1295 on April 27, 2015 at 11:42am

As far as using the beta firmware 3.3rc1, there are still issues in autotune.  The Dev's have figured out what the issues are but the fix won't be implemented until 3.3rc2.  They had hoped the 3.3rc2 would've been released last Friday but it wasn't.  I guess they're still working out issues.


Comment by Tim Painter on April 27, 2015 at 10:46am

Thanks  Nathanie

   Great advice , I will try individual  axis auto tune tomorrow.

 I assume I must disable pitch /roll lock first.

something else that i notice is that with the  "B" configuration that all prop nut are in "auto undo" rotation mode , I think a possible fix is to swap props  and motor to pixhawk  connections top to bottom and then reverse all rotation directions ,all changes cancel out.

.prop strikes definitely do loosen the plain nuts ( I am now using nylock nuts)

 Thanks again for the advice



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