A group for all 3DR Iris / Iris+ discussions, questions and owners.

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Members: 833
Latest Activity: Oct 13

Discussion Forum

iris+ to Pixhawk 2

Started by David Tipping. Last reply by Bruce Parmele Oct 13. 3 Replies

Hi - has anyone swapped the Pixhawk in their Iris+ for a Pixhawk 2?How did it go, are there advantages, how did you cope with the different cabling, what was the cost, would you recommend this to…Continue

Iris + won't arm

Started by Michael Foate. Last reply by Michael Foate Aug 22. 2 Replies

I have an Iris + using a Spektrum satellite and DX9 radio. I can only get the Iris to arm and motors run when the Iris is connected to my computer via USB (plus with LIPO plugged in of course).If I…Continue

Suburban powerline EMF interference

Started by Charles Shipman. Last reply by FrancoisBONIN Aug 15. 10 Replies

Does anyone have experience with flying IRIS near suburban electrical power lines and transformers?  There are many online videos of UAVs flying in suburban settings with visible utility poles and…Continue

Getting desperate - Radio Calibration says "Bad channel 1 input, cancelling" - Iris+

Started by Dale Greer. Last reply by Rayane Benyoucef Jul 17. 5 Replies

I'm still trying to find an answer to this after a couple of weeks of being down, 3DR support has been pretty slow on the uptake.Basically, my Iris+ isn't getting commands from my radio controller,…Continue

Tags: pixhawk, iris+

Comment Wall


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Comment by nz.mike.christiansen on August 6, 2015 at 1:39pm

Hi Ray,

You should be able to arm with your ESC disconnected. The communication between the pixhawk and the esc is pwm which is one directional and gives no feedback. 

Are you getting any pre-arm messages on your HUD over telemetry? Also, if the pixhawk powers up and your not getting any error messages or beeps, it may be your RC link, the command to arm may not be getting through. Check this in radio settings in mission planner. 

Hope this helps.


Comment by Ray on August 6, 2015 at 6:25am

Mike, so your Iris+ still arms and runs 3 motors with the smoked FETs?  I guess that kills my theory about my problem (see thread above) after similar crash.  For some reason after crash and arm replacement my Pixhawk doesn't seem to be talking to the ESC at all.  Won't even give the failed-to-arm sound or go into ESC cal mode.  Everything on my Iris seems to work... except the propellers.

Comment by nz.mike.christiansen on August 5, 2015 at 8:35pm

Does anyone know what FET is on the IRIS ESC? I have one motor down, looks like 2 FET's up in smoke :( This comes after I soldered a motor lead to the board, I think there may have been excessive heat causing a short maybe. Reading the case I can see Ior p3226 HTZ6_ F8736 but I cannot find this mosfet anywhere? 


Comment by Stone1295 on July 29, 2015 at 10:48pm

@ Gregg, Yes there's a classified section and it's here:

If you use Facebook you might consider joining the IRIS group there.  It's a pretty active community with 3500 members or so.


Comment by Erick R on July 29, 2015 at 4:42pm

I  on my 2nd Iris+  and now am having a very hith HDOP when i fly around a tree in an fairly open field. Im looked at the logs and it seems like its droping sats as well. Anyone else have this issue and is there anyway to boost the pull of the gps! Like getting a-Ublox NEO-M8N GPS Module? Would this even work with the Iris and has anyone attempted to swap out the gps module with one and tested it?  I get near a tree and it goes all over the place. The only way i can control it is by switching to stb mode.  I need to fly near trees and some 3 story buildings and it doesnt seem to like doing it.  Any advice is appreciated.  Thanks

Comment by OVIDIO BRACAMONTE on July 25, 2015 at 7:58pm

Hi, Any help to trigger Canon s100 using pixhawk with distance, I try and see all videos and Can't trigger. I am using a usb cable solder to Efla cable.

thanks for your help

Comment by damir on June 19, 2015 at 3:31pm

Thank you Phelps!

Comment by Jim Phelps on June 18, 2015 at 8:52pm


You want to check that the LED in leg is still working before you put it all together again.  When an arm is broken it can stress the LED cable.  If it needs replacing, you want to do that when you are replacing the arm.  It definitely requires soldering skills.  You can buy new LEDs at SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM.

Comment by damir on June 18, 2015 at 9:14am

okay thank you! 

Comment by Dax Hafer on June 18, 2015 at 7:43am

Damir here is a PDF of replacing an arm.  The PDF shows you how to cut the motor wires and reconnect them.  You can also de-solder and then re-solder them as well if you know how to solder and have a soldering iron.  If you don't know how to solder, my suggestion is you may want to learn if you plan on staying in the RC hobby.  It's a pretty necessary and valuable skill.  Also, for future posts, add a discussion instead of commenting on the Comment Wall.


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