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RT @chr1sa: Donkeycar 4.4 released with tons of new features, including path learning (useful with GPS outdoors), better Web and Lidar supp…
RT @NXP: We are already biting our nails in anticipation of the #NXPCupEMEA challenge! 😉 Did you know there are great cash prizes to be won…
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#jetracer https://t.co/GKcEjImQ3t
RT @chr1sa: The next @DIYRobocars autonomous car race at @circuitlaunch will be on Sat, Dec 10.
Thrills, spills and a Brazilian BBQ. Fun…
RT @arthiak_tc: Donkey car platform ... Still training uses behavioral cloning #TCXpo #diyrobocar @OttawaAVGroup https://t.co/PHBYwlFlnE
RT @emurmur77: Points for style. @donkeycar racing in @diyrobocars at @UCSDJacobs thanks @chr1sa for taking the video. https://t.co/Y2hMyj1…
RT @SmallpixelCar: Going to @diyrobocars race at @UCSDJacobs https://t.co/Rrf9vDJ8TJ
RT @SmallpixelCar: Race @diyrobocars at @UCSDJacobs thanks @chr1sa for taking the video. https://t.co/kK686Hb9Ej
RT @PiWarsRobotics: Presenting: the Hacky Racers Robotic Racing Series in collaboration with #PiWars. Find out more and register your inter…
RT @Hacky_Racers: There will be three classes at this event: A4, A2, and Hacky Racer! A4 and A2 are based around UK paper sizing and existi…
RT @NeaveEng: Calling all UK based folks interested in @diyrobocars, @f1tenth, @donkey_car, and similar robot racing competitions! @hacky_r…
RT @araffin2: 🏎️
After hours of video editing, I'm happy to share a best of my Twitch videos on learning to race with RL.
🏎️
Each part is…
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Get an older GoPro. I have modified 3 HD versions and they only require the removal of 7 screws to get at the lens without modifying the front case, however, I recommend carefully cutting the front case around the lens (I used a dremel, but the plastic is so soft a nail file should also work) then simply twist it off. The les on the older models are sealed with wax, not glue, so much easier to deal with. Also, the IR blocking filter is screwed into place on the rear of the lens so is also easy to remove. Cutting the front lens trim off the front cover will serve well in refocusing the camera, as you will not need to take it apart time and time again to get it back into focus. What I did with mine, once properly calibrated was to use a little hot-glue and seat a filter mount around the lens. I do not think I would do the same on a 3+ but on a $50 HD it was worth the gamble. I've modded 3 this way and they all work great (well, sold 2, but will keep my eyes open for others on eBay).
I modified my Hero HD easily enough. The newer versions Hero 3 and 3+ are harder to mod as the filters are glues to the lens housing. The older ones are a little easier to work on, once the lens seal has been appropriately bypassed. I actually have on for sale on eBay right now (well in about 5 minutes).
Here may the best choice for using in UAV!
http://www.maxmax.com/canon_sx230.htm
You will also need a visible light filter. I made a Near IR camera out of a Canon Powershot A540 a threaded bayonet filter adapter and a 720nm visible light filter. It worked well for shooting near IR and shot through smoke and haze like it was not there. However post production of B&W and false color is required or you have basically a purple white video feed. Unfortunately I sold it a year ago....
Wondering how you got on with this?
check out the lucid science website. They have projects on how to convert cameras to IR. They also have plans to make IR illuminators. Its a cool site with hacks and other projects.
I broke my first one my dropping it on a tile floor - shattered the lens into hundreds of pieces. When I opened it up, I discovered that the whole lens+CCD asembly is VERY tightly glues and screwed together. It's extremely difficult to get into it without breaking something.
given the cost of the camera, I'd STRONGLY advise against doing it since there's a reasonable chance you'll break it during the process.
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