Newbie Questions for 3DR Y6A (2013 model, APM)

Hello all!

Glad to find a forum based on the Y6 -- apologies if I'm missing anything obvious. 

1) Tried to get my Y6 off the ground several times (after doing the calibrations/etc from, and each time one of the back arms (the left one I think) accelerates too fast and flips over before it can lift off. (I've already broken a few props).

2) Does anyone else have this model? Would love to see a pic assembled. The directions were semi-ok, and the prop instructions showed slightly different components than I had (bullethead vs a regular nut on the top).

3) The bottom motor on the side that always flips the copter over has a strange effect: when I bring the throttle down to zero, this one stops spinning a slightly/noticeably after the other motors. Is that ok?

Don't have my copter with me right now so I can't post pictures/video, but I can do that if anyone is curious to see it.

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  • Hi Tieg,

    are you really having a 2013 Y6 in motor configuration A (Y6A)?

    In 2013 they changed motor spin direction with configuration A to configuration B.

    Configuration B is the default for Y6 in Mission Planner and Apm Planner.

    See attached my props with configuration B:

    Top is 10x4.7 Pusher, spinning clock wise

    Bottom is 11x4.7 normal, spinning counter clock wise




    • They also decided there is no point in using 11's on the bottom.  I put 10's on the bottom to have a Y6B config.  I'm also using the 2014 legs, and was able to move the legs outward toward the motors half an inch, which increased stability by 8% and got them further away from the camera.  Doesn't sound like much, but I haven't tripped on landing since I did that.  The nice thing about "B", whether with 10's or 11's, is that you only need.  two types of props.  All the bottoms are regular, and all the tops are pushers.   With the A config with 11's you need four different types of props as spares.  A Y6B with 10's all around would have the same advantage for spare parts, but apparently doesn't perform as well in some way.  

      As for the flipping problem, mine did this at one point because my compass/magnetometer had come loose, I think.  I recalibrated the ESCs, compass, and acceleromters, if I recall correctly.  

    • Awesome, thx for the pic! Is that a locknut on the top?

      I'm definitely configuring the propellors to be Y6A (as per the manual) and have set the Frame Type to "X" (as per these instructions).

      Do you think I'd be ok to try out the Y6B configuration with this model from 2013?

    • @Tieg After recently spending a lot of time researching why the Y6B configuration is better than the Y6A, I decided to assemble my 2013 Y6A kit in the updated Y6B configuration - all you'll need is the extra propellers. I've completed ~20 flights and I'd recommend doing this.

      I'd suggest using the instructions on the Wiki as much as possible, the hard copy that came with my kit was a little incomplete at times.

      I find that 11" props tend to keep spinning a little longer once powered down, I think this is due to their greater mass and inertia.

    • Great to hear! Thanks a ton, I might try the Y6B next week then.

    • Good luck.

      btw, I switched to using locknuts rather than the prop hubs that came with my kit after finding them loose a couple of times - pretty cheep for peace of mind.

    • I have had problems with the prop adapters that come with 3DR motor 2836.  I find that to tighten the props enough to keep them from spinning with prop hub you are close to,or beyond, the point of stripping the bolt.  Seems like the prop adapter is not very well designed.  Are the (hard anodized?) surfaces too smooth to provide enough friction at reasonable torque for the aluminum bolt.  The bolt is too short for some APC props. 

      The bolt is threaded right down to flange.  Most prop adapters have non threaded section at the flange  so the prop is centred properly, (a 4mm threaded rod is slightly smaller than a 4mm rod).

      These adapters are so bad, I am thinking of picking up some longer motor shafts from jdrones, so I can use 4mm collet style adapters.

  • Pictures and video are always helpful.  Though probably only a matter of perspective and description, you'd be talking about a front left arm, as there is only one arm and motor combo aft.

    One thing to remember w/ the stacked motor config is the type of prop used on top and bottom,  One has to be a pusher and one a puller, usually labeled SFP and SF respectively.  

    Spencer's tip to make sure the ESCs are all set w/ the correct firmware is a good tip as well.  

    • Thanks! My bad, I can confirm that it is the front-left arm.

      Everytime I've tested it I've 2x checked the layout of the props (with 2 other people checking too). I do have the SFP/SP combo on each arm, and made sure to follow the Y6A layout in this image:


  • A quick point:
    3. Check that all your ESCs have Simonk firmware. It should be printed on the esc sticker. Some people including me received some Simonk, some not Simonk. Either way, resolving this will not solve your problems with flipping.
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