My 3DR Y6B has gone through several APC 10 x 4.7 props, no fault of the props. I've had several good flights now with no broken props so would like to experiment.
Does anyone know or have a recommendation for good quality CF props to replace the SF and SFP props for a Y6?
Thanks.
I'm basing my curiosity on this:
Replies
I ordered 10x4.7 CF from Helibatics. Whether they are any better or worse than the low priced ones I do not know.
I take it you replaced the stock motors? I've read several accounts that using 11" props on a Y6B puts too much stress on the 850kv motors and makes them heat up. Maybe the 5 pitch requires less torque/rpm? I don't have warm fuzzy feelings about putting 11" props on my Y6, but am still new to the game.
The Graupners must be pretty stiff because compared to plastic Gemfans, the APC is stiff.
yes I did, i changed from the 3DR blue motors to http://www.rctigermotor.com/html/2013/Professional_0912/45.html - there is no comparison. They drive the 11" props without issues, motors haven't gotten more than 'warm', even in 80-90 degree (F) weather. I'm running 4S.
Yeah the APC you can actually flex up and down if you grab it from the rip for example. The Grapners are very stiff and do not flex. With the APC's i used to get a fluttering sound at certain RPMs (yes they were balanced), and whenever i'd try to descent into my own propwash i'd get a horrible wobble, even at very slow speeds; if i wanted to descend, I never would straight down, but instead always had to descend while moving forward/backwards to avoid it. Changing the motors & props completely got rid of these issues.
I'm at the stage where I'm no longer breaking props too. In fact I was considering writing a post asking for tips on upgrades including prop upgrades, so thanks for the post, and the research.
I'm running 3S with the 980 motors. I was planning to buy 10 and 11 inch props the same size as the stock ones, any tips whether I want 4.5 or 4.7 props.
Also does anyone have experience with the new 2014 prop rotation configuration. I've got a 2013 Y6 and I'm using the 2013 config. Is there much difference?
Are there any other upgrades that experienced Y6 (or any multirotor) pilots would recommend? I've got a servo gimbal for still photography with a Canon S100 and NEX5. And I've got these extended legs coming so I can fit a brushless gimbal.
I have the 2013 version also. I changed the motors to the B configuration and it flies just fine like that(bit more stable). My 3s 5400 battery flies it ok in the stock configuration, but when I added the gimbal (goodluckbuy $73.00 on ebay) and gopro it just was not enough battery(5 minute flights then no gas left in the battery). I upgraded my batteries to the Turnigy 4s 6000 battery and it made a brand new machine out of it. Also, I am now running 10 X 4.7 props top and bottom as suggested by 3dr tech support. My bottom motors were running hotter with the 11" props and now they all run close to the same temp. I fly at 4280 feet and get 8.5 to 9 minutes of flight time. I don't have the extended legs and my gopro is closer to the ground but so far no issue. I like those legs and will probably do the same thing as you.
I've been running some long mission flights at 15ms and the motors/ESC's do not get hot so I'm sticking with 10" props. I ordered CF props @10g/prop to test.
For power it's using Tiger Power 4s 6000 batteries. So far so good.
How do you get the longer flight times? Are you running it with a gimbal and camera attached? Mine flew ok with the stock 3s battery but is underpowered with the gimbal attached. The 4s has helped tremendously but flight times are not that long. Do you think the CF props would help?
Thanks
If you're replying to me, the 15ms is the speed as in 'meters per second' programmed in MP. I flew it in the backyard yesterday using stab/loiter in calm conditions for 15 minutes, but not fast flying.
I'm pretty convinced that doing precise prop balancing, having the CG correct and tuning the copter makes quite a difference in battery life. When there are no hot motors that tells me things are set up pretty good, but I'm no expert, just applying mechanical common sense I guess.
15 min is pretty good in any conditions. Are you getting that with the Gemfan CF 10x4.7 props you talked about getting, or do you still have nylon APC?
Do you have a link to the Gemfan props for $13/pair?
I don't remember reading where C of G should be. I guess at the point where the three arms would meet? (Meaning each arm the same load).
Still using APC 10x4.7.....haven't broken one in a week LOL.
http://www.helidirect.com/gemfan-carbon-fiber-10x47-apc-style-set-1...
What I did was try to adjust the weight so that very little trim was needed to keep the copter level in stab mode, adjust trim and save trim settings to MP, then center the trims on the radio, take off again and see how it flies, fine adjust if necessary. No wind is the only way to do that. I didn't measure the Y6 but assumed it is a symmetrical 120 deg design. See pic for where to place fingers to check for CG balancing. We're not looking for perfection here, but if the copter requires significant trim adjustment it is likely due to some mechanical issue, either CG or motor/ESC. At least that's my experience. Others with more knowledge with multi's can correct me if wrong.
It flew pretty darn good using the default 3DR Y6B parameters, but I went ahead and ran Auto Tune last night. To me it seems a bit too "snappy" and not as smooth prior to AT so I'll repeat the process to see if it improves.
I found the "sweet spot" for the battery and try to keep it there each time I change it. After first assembling my copter, trying to take off was a big problem as it wanted to roll to the right and the only way to get it off the ground without flipping was to gun the throttle and recover using loiter. Now it lifts straight up without my worrying about rolling.
EDIT: I spent considerable time balancing the props including the hubs. Many say the hubs aren't that important because the weight is close to the center of rotation, but the amount of weight I had to add to balance the hub was significant IMO. I use fuzzy Velcro and Krazy glue for the hub. All I know is my copter runs pretty quiet compared to some I've heard, but haven't checked the accelerometer data yet to see what it says.
Thanks for the info. My gimbal and camera would touch the ground with the standard 2013 legs so I haven't been able to mount it yet, I'm still waiting on the legs.
I'll get all 10 x 4.7 props and see how that goes.
-
1
-
2
-
3
of 3 Next