I was wondering if anyone knows of a video or instructions on how to chang out the motors on an Iris+. I know that the motors have been upgraded from the Iris and I was just wondering if there is a different way to change them. Is there still soldering involved like the Iris? I ask because I think one of the motors on my Iris+ might be a little damaged. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Hi,
It’s actually a simple procedure. I ‘m willing to help you step by step.
I changed my arms, and I need to re-solder all 4 motors.
(I do have some experience, and took me just about an hour)
Yes, involves soldering ( 3 motor leads to ESC board)
You have two options:
REMOVE the PROPELLERS!!! DO NOT IGNORE THIS!!!
1.) Solder directly on to ESC Board ( cleaner and nicer / a bit difficult)
If the new motor comes with longer leads and you want to solder the new motor in to ESC board you need to open the IRIS ( top and bottom)shell, remove the leg, remove the screws on faulty motor, remove the LED clear polycarbonate cover, and cable clamps from the arm.
The cables from motors to ESC are marked with red, blue shrink slave and one unmarked.
The ESC contacts are also marked A, B and C.
Please write down how they are soldered ( Red to A, Blue to C ..may differ )
De-solder the motor from ESC Board. Pull out the faulty motor from arm.
Be careful on LED leads, pull slowly and carefully until the faulty motor and 3 cables are out
Install the new motor, fish the 3 wires exactly the same way, screw the new motor on to the arm, re-arrange the LED and clamp back the polycarbonate cover and cable snap-on holders.
Now you need to re-solder 3 motor wires to corresponded 3 ESC contacts.
Now you can solder the wires of the new motor back in the same order (only if the come marked like the ones in Original IRIS) like the faulty motor was soldered.
That does NOT mean the motor will spin in the correct direction
You need to do an arm test anyway. If the motor is spinning the wrong way you need to swap to wires, and that will change the rotation.
REMOVE the PROPELLERS!!! IF YOU DIDN’T DO IT AT THE BEGINNING !!!
After you solder 3 motor leads to ABC contacts of the ESC, you need to to a rotation test.
Get handy an IRIS+ manual open at the page with Propellers rotation.
Turn ON the transmitter, carefully not to have tolls screws or other parts within the open IRIS, to short some contacts. Make sure you work clean, organized and no necessary tools and screws are making any contact with ESC or other IRIS components.
Plug the battery in, do the arming procedure ( arm switch )..and do a spin for the motors to see how the new motor is spinning.
If it’s the correct way, you got it…
If it’s the wrong way, switch two of the wires on ESC board, and this should reverse the rotation.
After you are 100% that all motors are spinning the correct way you can start putting the IRIS back.
You need to be a bit careful as you screw back the bottom shell and top one, make sure you don’t catch any wires, and there you go.
2.) Cut and solder on the existing wires .
You will NOT open the IRIS, but remove the propellers !!!
Just take out the clear LED polycarbonate cover, and wires Snap-On clamps from the faulty motor arm
Cut the faulty motors wires( somewhere in the middle of the am ( avoid to be close to the LED, but in a location convenient to work and to tide the wires back).
Unscrew the leg, and after that the faulty motor.
Wire back the new motor ( fish thru the same way).
Make sure the cables overlap approx. 3mm. You need some shrink wrap on them before soldering.
Remove insulation on both IRIS wires and new motor wires.
Re-solder 3 wires ( from motor to the cables comming out of IRIS), make sure they don’t touch ( short)
Do the rotation test!!!
“Plug the battery in, do the arming procedure ( arm switch )..and do a spin for the motors to see how the new motor is spinning”
If is the correct way, pull the shirk wrap and insulate the new soldering points, if not, swap two wires, do the rotation test again.
Make sure the soldering points are properly insulated, try to fit them in to arm channel ( they might be a bit bigger due to shrink wrap insulation), snap the LED cover back, and snap-on cable holders.
That’s it.
That was easy.
I would do and Esc calibration after that, and heading to fly.
Let me know how is working.
No video I found, but I broke an arm on mine a few weeks ago. I just heated the connections at the board to free the engine. Honestly the hardest parts for me were those wire retaining clips and the light diffuser. LOL