just found this post, mine have same problem, when i pull out one connector, the base get out, I think the cope is not is hard connect to the plastic base.
Luis, Hot glue or Shoe Glue on the wire leading into the connector will save you from ripping the wires out. I've actually dabbed my wires with some hot glue after yanking one apart.
I agree with you Muhammad.. I can use my plastic pry open tool on the Pixhawk.. However on the I2C splitter I'll shave down the tabs. I'll probably put some medium CA on the left over connectors and spritz it with some kicker to harden them in place.
I contacted 3DR Support but they were not very "helpful" except for the contact your dealer story.... I tried to solder the contacts and it's a lousy job, because both my eyesight and experience on these small contacts aren't great. Just gave up and will have to buy one of these when needed..... Even from HobbyKing on some cold solderings on a 15usd stabilizer they sent a new one after I notified them......
I've shaved down the two little tabs on the cable side of the connectors. Just by a hair. It makes them easy to pull out, but not so easy that they'll slide/snag out.
You can smother the corners where the board and connector meet with epoxy or something. That's probably what I'll end up doing.
Weird thing is that my I2C board received with my PixHawk about a month ago had very similar problems. I noticed that none of the plugs were correctly soldered.
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just found this post, mine have same problem, when i pull out one connector, the base get out, I think the cope is not is hard connect to the plastic base.
My one also has the same problem. Poor QC.
Unfortunately my problems were not with the wires and the plugs, were with questionable QC on the splitter....
but yours is a good suggestion to have a "cable saver" attached :)
Luis, Hot glue or Shoe Glue on the wire leading into the connector will save you from ripping the wires out. I've actually dabbed my wires with some hot glue after yanking one apart.
Perhaps some hot glue would work better ?
I'll do that when and if I get a new splitter...
I agree with you Muhammad.. I can use my plastic pry open tool on the Pixhawk.. However on the I2C splitter I'll shave down the tabs. I'll probably put some medium CA on the left over connectors and spritz it with some kicker to harden them in place.
I contacted 3DR Support but they were not very "helpful" except for the contact your dealer story.... I tried to solder the contacts and it's a lousy job, because both my eyesight and experience on these small contacts aren't great. Just gave up and will have to buy one of these when needed..... Even from HobbyKing on some cold solderings on a 15usd stabilizer they sent a new one after I notified them......
well, live and learn....
Ouch.
I've shaved down the two little tabs on the cable side of the connectors. Just by a hair. It makes them easy to pull out, but not so easy that they'll slide/snag out.
You can smother the corners where the board and connector meet with epoxy or something. That's probably what I'll end up doing.
Hi
Weird thing is that my I2C board received with my PixHawk about a month ago had very similar problems. I noticed that none of the plugs were correctly soldered.