Posted by Jordi Muñoz on November 25, 2009 at 3:30pm
Some details you must remember:-Your solder skills must be advance or medium-advance to attempt this.-If you try to do it with your razor remember that you will void your warranty with SparkFun.-The same with ArduIMU, if you can't do it i will for you (free of charge).-Not all the ArduIMU's flats have high pass filters, please double check. Check if the HP resistors are already gone.To remove the capacitors and the resistors is pretty easy. First try to set the highest temp possible in your iron, then just apply heat in any of the side of the capacitor/resistors, the heat will spread in both ends melting the soldering in both sides, then just push it carefully. Try not to apply to much pressure or you may blow away the pad. I recommend to practice with the resistors first (the black ones), because if you blow away the pad it really doesn't matter (are not needed anyway), then try later with the capacitors (the brown ones), very, very carefully.Now you must make a bridge in the capacitor pads. There's many ways to it, use any wire or piece of metal to make the bridge and apply soldering to keep it there. I used breadboard cable.The next hi-res pictures indicates which components you must remove, the red arrows are the resistors and the yellow/green arrows are the capacitors. Good luck!
Is there a way to use the 1X outputs instead of the 4X ones on the Razor 9DOF? For my application I'd actually prefer the larger range over the better resolution. Thanks very much!
Hi there.
I don´t get it. When i look at the schematics it shows that you use the x,y,z 4X amplified outputs. The hi- and lowpass filter are on the 1X non amplified outputs. But they are not in use??? Is these modifications you show us making any difference in the output?
Tips for any one who has trouble soldering...
Filter caps don't need to be removed, just add shorting jumper.
Also when removing these parts, touch both sides at same time with solder iron tip, when enough heat has transfered to part, it will usually stick to iron tip by surface tension of solder.
Don't keep iron on part too long as pads or nearby parts may come loose. If board starts to turn brown STOP as it is too hot... Add a little fresh solder to tip, let board cool down, then start over...
As Jordi states "Don't use too much pressure"", just let heat do the job... and stop when part lifts off.
I made a similar mod on Razor board - removed capacitors for HP filter but left resistors in place (at least for now....). Green arrows point to bridged connections where HP caps used to be, and blue is my 'Boo-Boo' - by accident removed cap for PLL, and end up replacing it with through hole (since SMD wasn't handy). Preliminary test looks ok, but will try to spen
Comments
I've been unable to find a description of the logic that leads to selecting the amplified outputs over the non-amplified. er... help?
I don´t get it. When i look at the schematics it shows that you use the x,y,z 4X amplified outputs. The hi- and lowpass filter are on the 1X non amplified outputs. But they are not in use??? Is these modifications you show us making any difference in the output?
Filter caps don't need to be removed, just add shorting jumper.
Also when removing these parts, touch both sides at same time with solder iron tip, when enough heat has transfered to part, it will usually stick to iron tip by surface tension of solder.
Don't keep iron on part too long as pads or nearby parts may come loose. If board starts to turn brown STOP as it is too hot... Add a little fresh solder to tip, let board cool down, then start over...
As Jordi states "Don't use too much pressure"", just let heat do the job... and stop when part lifts off.
d some time with the board over the holiday break-
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