more ramblings on the corvid


well the folding frame is done. i am currently waiting on the glue to dry on the motor mount/ nacelles, but the frame is done and folds perfectly, i made the arms a little longer then i first intended. i am hoping to get a little more stability out of it this way, the distance from motor shaft to CG is 600mm, giving a total diameter of 1200mm, yes this is a big Y6, and a Y6 that should have plenty of power, the motors i am using are the avroto 2814 @770 KV. as i mentioned in my last post, what i have not mentioned yet is how much static thrust they deliver, with the 12x3.8 CF props. in independent  testing these motors developed 60.3 oz of thrust, and 423 watts of power at 14.8v, the ones on my tricopter will pull a huge amount of weight, at the expense of flight time that is, so i think that 6 of these should be able to lift the 3D cam i like to fly with as well as an SLR or video camera. the frame is very light and very strong it folds open and locks into place with little CF spring tabs on each side of the frame box, each motor nacelle has a 3 led nav light mounted in it, in red, green, and white, as well as having a very small zeon strobe on the belly. 

i like3 the idea of all the parts and pieces being enclosed on a multirotor aircraft, it just looks more finished than having wires and components visible. and enclosing the motors makes sense to me for the same reasons.

this frame will mount to a flat sheet of CF that will then have all of the avionics attached to it like ESC's RC radio Rx, video Tx, main control stabilizer etc.. as well as providing a place to mount the battery and  all of this can then be enclosed in an egg shaped body giving a very nice slick aerodynamic shape to the whole aircraft.

the pictures i have attached will give a good idea of where i am heading with this


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  • Thanks Daniel, I am using 7 channel Rx and trying to figure out settup for arducopter2 board..

  • thank you Nubli and yes you should be able to use less then 8 ch to do this, a receiver of 4 to 6 ch will fly a y6 i am using a dx 7 to fly mine it depends on the control system you have chosen to use in my case i am using the FY-91Q and it needs only 5 ch for input from the receiver for pitch/nick , roll , yaw and throttle then it also requires a channel for hover hold, return to home, and balance flight mode these last 3 require a 3 position switch this is the basic required to fly it and i think most others use the same number of ch as this one i know the wii multicopter board i have also requires only 5 ch to fly. with my set up i need a few more ch to control the settings on the 3D flight camera i use and some other things so i am using the dx7 but if you have an 8 ch that will work better, however anything above 5 ch will do

  • Interesting Daniel. I am building Y6 also for first timeafter successful tricop with ardu board. but mine look sloppy. and yes big lifts motor. just one question, can we use lesser than 8 channel receiver on Y6 frame? looking at your build thread with big interest. your enclosure look nice and neat

  • i should add that my plan was to put vents around the nacelle for ventilation but i decided to leave them out after testing it it becomes a problem due to the weight i am lifting i can always add them later with a dremel. i actually think they might look rather good if done right i have some drawings well sketches really of these ideas i will post in my photos, my original idea for the nacelles was to use CF prop spinners of a large 2.5 inch size and cut the top off for the motor to poke out and this would have had vents all down it since it would have been tight to the rotor housing

  • not to worry Sean

    the spacing between the motor and the nacelle is quite large actually larger than i wanted, the motors are 36mm the housing is 50 mm and it still has the prop blowing into it. and these motors have a built in ducting system on them to rout air through the motor a lot of manufacturers try to do this but fail, avroto makes it work, there vents are on the sides of the motor base and the rotor housing has a very sharp fan designed into it where the others put the vents on the bottom or not at all. also i have been using these motors on my tricopter the 770s for some time now and they dont get any more then slightly warm, compared to the motors i was using before these which got very hot with no enclosure, also i have done testing because i was concerned that this might be a problem so i built5 an enclosure for only one of the motors on the tricopter to see if it would cause a heating problem and i found no difference in the temp for that motor after flying for 12 min with the 12x3.8 apc props. i don't think i will have any problems with it but thank you for your input i know what you mean about these type of magnets i have tried to solder them to a pcb for a battery connection of some rc gear a while back and it had to be done very fast with low low melt solder or they weren't magnets anymore


  • yes i got them from quadrocopterUSA here is the link

    i found them  from a video on youtube while searching for cf props to solve my tip flutter problem

    i have not received them yet but i only ordered them on Thursday of lest week i will post a review of them as soon as i get them

  • "and enclosing the motors makes sense to me for the same reasons."
    If you cut off all the airflow to your motors, you'll will want to be careful to not overheat your motors, particularly on longer flights. Even if you don't heat it up enough to do any obvious damage, the neodymium magnets can be very sensitive to extreme heat.
  • hi may i knw from where are u getting Carbon fiber props..iam badly waiting to knw where can i find those 

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