I have been searching high and low for a good affordable large hexa system, with the main objective to lift 500gr (camera, FPV transmitter, etc) for as long as possible, and have the video stabilized.
The S800 looked ok, but due to some issues around the boom flexibility and cost, I ditched that idea. The Carbon Core, Steadidrone H6X also looked very nice, but once again cost played a big role.
So, I stumbled across the Tarot T810, for $330 I got the frame. I needed to add some extras for folding landing gear (not retract) and the camera rail mount which was not included.
I'm doing a build log to not only "hopefully" help someone out there, but also have a place to get some input from the community in getting the max flight time. The Hexa will be used for local security missions and possibly also help in the Rhino Poaching crises we're facing in South Africa.
My system:
- Tarot T810 Frame
- Sunnysky 4112S 400kv
- 40 Turnigy Plush
- 15X4.7" props
- APM (of course!) - Looking forward to a maiden flight on AC3rc6
- Martinez gimbal controller
- Brushless Gimbal
- Gens Ace 6S 5500Mah X 2
- Estimated AUW including gimbal and camera - 5.3kg
The frame went together nicely, only issue I had was the hole in one of the landing gear braces was skew, I just drilled it straight with a bigger drill bit.
Here is a view of the frame in it's folded position. It folds nice and small - about 900mm in length
Here are the motors I'm planning to use, hopefully I get my flight time. Powerrrr! Notice the ESC mounting plates under the motor mount.
I like the prop attachment.
I also like the way the booms lock in place with a dovetail clamp, very secure.
Here is a shot of the little power distribution "lugs" - I just soldered all the power wires in place with huge amounts of solder.
I'm planning to install the ESC's under the motors, I have read about some scare stories on RCGroups about this idea, but I have never personally had problems with this.
I am however a little concerned about the wire gauge for power - using 16AWG to the motors and 12AWG to the battery. I'll do a full power test to see if they heat up, and by how much.
I'm wating for my ESC's to arrive, and will continue the log once they're here!
Comments
Hey that's a good idea. Cool
This soldered ESC-motor connection method (previous pics) was quick and painless. Sleeving was added where the motor wires pass through the aluminum, and there is factory-installed sleeving at the CF motor mount plate penetration. Later the ESC wire stubs can be tucked in. Short wires may slightly boost flight efficiency: lower electrical resistance, less copper weight, and less drag in a location that experiences severe wind (80mph?). Tri-colored heat shrink (cheap from Digikey) strictly optional....
I would turn the motors around so the wires are going out over the outer edge of the motormounts. This should take the pressure off the wires. I'll take a photo of my setup.
P.S. Are those Capacitors you put on before the ESCs to help stop inductance?
I did the same thing, but i put heat wrap around the three wires coming out of the motor.
When I attached the motor installed on the mounts. The top of the tubing was pressing hard
against the wire casings, and a couple of my wires split and the bare wire was showing. I'm not sure if i should maybe use a dremel to smooth out the inside of the tubing and clamps.
I ran mine in a similar way. I have each wire running through each space.
But I think I know the problem you are having. You are having trouble getting the bullets to go through the little hole at the back of the motor mount. I had trouble at first to, then I put each cable through one at a time.
I think you can see from picture where I ran mine
Stuart
I had no issue.
The wires (bare ends, no connectors) from my motors fit easily through the carbon fiber motor mounting plate hole. Is that what you mean?
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