This is a discussion re the bad Accel, Gyro and Baro values that we're seeing with ArduCopter-3.1. The increase in the SPI bus speed from 500khz to 8Mhz has exposed a hardware problem on some boards. That hardware problem is that the 3.3V regulator has been blown so all sensors are running at 5V instead of the intended 3.3V.
How have these regulators been burnt out?
- Attaching a radio receiver or MinimOSD to the APM while the APM is only powered through the USB (see video below)
- Some clone boards seem to come from the factory with blown regulators. 3DR boards might also come with blown regulators although they do a specific check of the regulator as part of the regular QA process.
- It is not (as far as we know) actually caused by the AC3.1 software itself, it just exposes the problem. You could prove this to yourself by checking the 3.3V regulator (see video above) before and after the upgrade.
How can we fix the regulator?
Option #1: If it's a new board (so that it's less likely you burned it out yourself) you could report the problem to the retailer that sold you the board and ask for an replacement. If it's 3DR it's called an "RMA".
Option #2: if you're handy with a soldering iron you can replace the regulator yourself. On the APM2.5.2 (and higher) boards it's not that difficult. On the APM2.5 it's far more difficult.
For APM2.5.2 : TPS79133DBVR
For APM 2.5: MIC5219-3.3YML TR
How can I stop it from happening again?
Do not connect any devices such as a radio receiver, MinimOSD, GPS, etc while the APM is powered especially while powered only through the USB cable.
Attaching a 100uF capacitor across any of the APM's radio input's 5V and GND pins will stop the regulator from being blown by plugging in a receiver. video here!
There are very few reports of regulators being blown twice and no reports of it ever failing in flight.
Below are some graphs of the types of values that we are seeing on these boards.
Yeah, I saw that typo about 5 minutes too late to edit it. :rolleyes:
The story of my life. ;)
I used to hire technicians, around 1 in 20 or 30 is worth it, same with electrician, plumbers, and auto mechanics.
I dont know how easy it would be but couldn't he put an inverter between pin 3 and the signal it invert the signal?
OK... I guess there IS somebody out there who takes a more extreme approach than I did. ;)
Just a quick heads-up; more updates in my APM LM1117-3.3 Regulator Mod thread. I've installed the 100uf cap RIGHT AT the regulator in an effort to make it soldered-in yet still fit inside the case.
Thanks for reading!
Paul Great job, I've done all your mod plus a 3200uf electrolytic capacitor for voltage increases to connect the lipo and also void the usb feeding.
I think it is enough PROTECTED .... hahahahahaha.
I think you are misinterpreting me, I do not mean that the mod is more effective than the capacitor 100uf, What I say is to remove the USB cable plus power is more effective than the capacitor 100 uf.Porque thus avoid USB power to 100%. Forgive me for not explaining well. Sorry for my bad English can confundir.Muchas thanks for everything and greetings.
How do you disconnect the USB power?