Some how what I think is a diode on the right side from the power jumper ( bottom left on the board just below the multiplexor) is missing. It must have gotten knocked of somehow. Can you please advise what the specs are of this component and what I can use to replace it with? Or an alternative hack or work around?

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It is on mine.

It's a 1A 20v Schottky diode, pretty common part.

Keith

thanks Keith that great, Yes I though ti was a diode , I just couldn't find PC board lay out in the wiki. 

is it still possible to run the board without this diode? The board runs ok using the USB power so it must also be possible to do a hack to power the board via the USB input pins and feed the 5v input via there? If this is possible were would be the best place to connect?

I haven't looked at the schematic for awhile, but I believe this diode prevents the RX side from getting power from the USB. 
I strongly recommend using it. 

Are you sure it was there when you got it?

In the past, I've received an IMU that was missing the CLI Switch and a magnetometer board that was missing the magnetometer.  3DR fixed everything in the end.

yes it was there. I can see where it broke the PCB traces when it got ripped off. Its a bit of story. I did a swap for a spare copter control board I had and I was at the hobby shop and bought some LED strips. When I took it out from the bag I noticed a small diode fell out onto the floor, but I had assumed this was from the LED strips. I picked it up and put it in the bag, but I have since lost it.. Now I realise its the diode missing of the AMP board.

well doesn't the power hack do this anyway? I would have thought if the board can be powered in all aspects from the USB, then likely the board can fun from those 5v points as well. Perhaps the diode is to prevent voltage feed back into the BEC/ECSs when the board is being powered by the USB?  Where can I find the PCB layout?

Also that diode seems to become isolated when the jumper is unsoldered if you want to use 7-11v to power the board. The rx in any case is powered from the opposite side of the power bus so with the hack this becomes separated correct?

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You can find the schematic here : http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10294

it is on page 2 "D3"

 

Do you have a picture of your board? I'd like to see what you have to work with, i.e. ripped off solder pads and damaged traces.

You might be able to solder an axial schottky form radio shack.

If you don't want to mess with it, you might be able to power the board through the JP17 connection you mentioned, but beware the 7-11v input range.

will send pic shortly Keith, up load speed is really slow to DIY.

I have no doubt I can fix it once I have the diode, Its more about me just being very impatient because I only have one day per week that I can fly my rigs and if I have to now order the part then another week goes by. I tried to get it here locally (Malaysia) , but no luck. Im also interested if there is a hack that will work as well now and then Ill be able to fly it tomorrow.

Lets say I hacked a USB cable to connect one end to the 5v BEC and then plug the small male end  in to the APMs USB port, then this would work right?

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