new APM flavor released: APM Mini Pro

I just noticed this at the Chinese on-line retailer, ThanksBuyer.com

sku-38006-0-600x600.jpg

They are pricing the bundled versions attractively.  Obviously made to compete against the APM micro 3.1

Flight controller

FC bundled with power supply

FC, power supply, GPS unit

If anyone makes the leap, perhaps you could keep us informed on your experiences.

Happy flying all!!

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              • We have used hundreds of PixMini Flight Controllers without any problem with the PPM encoder. It can happen, and you would then have to reinstall the PPM encoder firmware.

                Try unplugging everything from the PixMini other than the RC radio. Connect the PixMini to your GCS via micro USB cable, open Mission Planner, go to radio calibration, and see if the bars are green and move.

                If not, tell me the make/model of your receiver and I will test a PixMini with a known working receiver.

                You could also test your receiver with a standard PixHawk. The PPM encoders on the PixMini and PixHawk are identical.

  • Been using APM mini PRO from the day it was release, now own 6x drone models uses Pro for autonomous flight. Flew flawlessly without any problem . Btw i still have few ones running on old 2.5 and 2.6 board but now majority going for miniPro Thumbs up.

    Videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6RkJsb70QE

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      • Hi Eric, don't know if anyone's replied to your Q. Yet or if you have fixed it but I get similar oscillations in alt. On the bench and they are around the same I don't think the sensors are all that accurate independent of each other but together they do a good job of position hold etc. it sounds like the sensor is having a hard time adjusting to the difference between the air pressure etc where it is stored and the field. It is just a possibility. Sometimes they need a bit of time outdoors to adjust before they perform.
        The other thing it may be is the PID tuning or throttle mid position. Check your throttle mid position while hovering and make sure it's in that mid position when in alt hold. If you increase throttle to much or drop too low even in alt hold it will make it increase or decrease in altitude. Getting your throttle mid position sorted then having a go at adjusting your PIDs would be the next step after leaving it outdoors to adjust before flight. If you need any more help let me know I have a little experience with these now and apart from a couple issues around power I've found the mini APM Pro FC a good one. By the way, what frame and motor size etc are you using?
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          • Hi Waltek, from the sound of it I would concentrate on two main factors.
            1. Set your mid throttle setting in configuration set up for a start because before it can do any good with your other modes it needs to be pretty well right. Go to the extended tuning or extended parameters section, (I'm not near my mission planner so forgive me if I aren't giving the exact name of these locations) but in the tuning page your first page I think is the basic tuning it's like the second or third heading from the top, it should show settings like if your copter is sluggish slide to left if copter is twitchy slide to right, on that page it should have a throttle hover slide bar. If you are not up at half throttle to hover slide the slider higher to the right. If you then hover test and its above slide it left until you get it to hover on mid throttle. after that remember when you put it into your alt hold make sure its in that mid range when you enter the mode.
            Another thing after you have the mid throttle sorted enter tuning mode, not auto tune, tune mode when arm it you hold the throttle down and right keep holding it until the light goes from standard arm color to flashing. Take off and maintain a steady hover keeping it as steady as possible at one height in one spot. Then land and disarm. Take off again and see how well it hovers. If it is good great if not do it again. Best in a still indoor area where the prop wind isn't pushing it around and best not doing it in any wind if outdoors.
            2. After completing these two things if you still have trouble it's time for PID tuning. I normally start by getting the setting that makes it either more sluggish or more crisp response found in the basic tuning I think, one of the top headings in config tuning page. Sometimes that can make a big difference because it actually alters PID characteristics without needing to go through the whole PID tuning process.
            When you gave it flying about right for your style not too twitchy not too sluggish and if you still gave issues with the alt hold then it's time to go to your basic tuning page for PIDs with the stabilise PIDs loiter PIDs and throttle, etc. if your copter is flying OK in stabilise mode but not in alt hold you can sometimes either retune the stabilise PIDs which from the sound of the way you said it's bouncing on landing that's where I'd start. Tuning PIDs is a bit tricky and I'm out of time to explain right now, just try starting with those things and let me know how you go and I'll help as much as I can.
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              • Ah yes repairs, I know the feeling. Just Friday I had my brand new mini APM pro hex with GoPro & 3axis gimbal suddenly trigger failsafe when I was only ten meters from it. Oh joy. Interference from something maybe, result was I dropped throttle before it hit a tree branch above before realising it was rising due to failsafe, (ended in a salt water death below. Destroyed 99% of that $1500. Set up. :(

                Anyway you say you hit the ceiling indoors when trying alt hold. I would never try go intoalt hold or GPS modes while indoors. I know the barometer is what holds alt but in the settings I believe it does have options as to how much the GPS can be used to contribute to its altitude. I may have it confused with pos hold but just a thought.
                So have you tested the other modes like loiter pos hold? If these are all working it narrows down the problem a little.
                But as I said earlier set mid throttle- hover tune by holding arm for 30seconds until lights flashing, take off hold a steady hover in stabilise mode, maintaining altitude and position as much as possible. Throttle down to land and disarm, re-arm and test, if better great otherwise try again until maintaining that steady hover. After these are working and you think it's ready for alt hold test get satellite lock, take off and go to the alt you want lower throttle to mid then activate alt hold. If you increase throttle over the dead zone it will rise, same if you lower below dead zone will descend. Alt hold only holds while in that mid hover dead zone and I find it is reliant on having good PID settings in stab. Mode. If you need help tuning you PIDs later I can be of some help but it's really something you'll learn the basics from others but it's not until you do it many times that you get a good feel for the different behaviour from the changes. But always start with P then I then D then P again fine tuning I and D again, you can do this many times before figuring it out. Best to start with those other things if you have it flying reasonably already then let me know which craft you're setting and we can find the average settings being used on other peoples of the same size, it can help a little sometimes as a starting point, other times you have to just do it yourself.

                By the way are you using a standard foam from the manufacturer or your own? I had an issue with a NAZE32 which would always ascend rapidly because I had a type of foam that wasn't doing a good job. Make sure it's that dark grey type, although I've used other types too with success but one type was just too porous or something.
  • I've been following this thread with interest.  I was looking at picking up an APM 2.6 to trial in a Bix3 but like the smaller form factor of the APM Pro. Would those who are using them say that there are no disadvantages to using this over the 2.6?

    Can anyone recommend any good sources for the APM Pro that they trust?

    We're not needing the Pixhawk at this point although, if there was a cheaper clone you could recommend, we might consider it.

    • I can think of no disadvantages of the Mini APM Pro as compared with the APM 2.6. The relevant comparison is with the APM 2.8, a much improved flight controller as compared with the APM 2.6. The Mini APM Pro is much like the APM 2.8, but in a better form factor with improved cable connectors. Look for the best price on AliExpress that includes a good GPS (M7N or M8N) and V2 radios. Only difference I have seen from the various vendors is the quality of cables. Most now provide high quality silicone cables. If you later want to upgrade to a higher performance flight controller, the Min Pixhawk (Pixmini) has the same form factor.

      • Thanks for the detailed reply Ronald. Do you have any links to units you recommend ? There are a lot of them but difficult to work out quality e.g. silicon cables etc.

        • This link is a good example: http://www.thanksbuyer.com/new-mini-apm-pro-flight-control-with-ubl...

          You can find more information at www.KashmirWorldFoundation.org. You can also purchase tested components from KwF if you participate in one of the challenges or work for KwF. No real benefit for the Mini APM Pro kits, but perhaps significant benefits for motors, ESCs, batteries, etc. where test data is needed for design and systems integration.

          • Hi Ronald, awesome info and website. Fascinating project. Looking forward to reading a bit more about this worthy initiative. 

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