Due to popular request, this post features a video of the multicolor led in action, and a second video how to single-handedly unplug DF13 connectors.
This tutorial page again summarizes how to unplug and shows an alternative strategy in slow-motion that does not require pulling on the wires. We hope that these videos illustrate well that users do not need to be afraid of higher-density connectors.
We would be very interested in feedback on the multicolor led. There are a few considerations to add:
- We know the DJI pattern, and believe it is too complex. We would be looking for something simpler
- It would be beneficial to limit the number of blink patterns and colors to a minimum
- It will be impossible to map all system states, so the core and important points need to be prioritized and indicated
We are looking for feedback in particular on these aspects:
- What are the system properties you would like to see visualized (arming status, low battery, gps lock, mode, etc)
- What do you consider suitable blinking patterns and how many different ones? (e.g. breathe, steady on, fast blink)
- How should patterns and colors be assigned to things to show? (e.g. one breathe for disarmed, steady on for armed and color for something else? Or yellow disarmed, green armed and pattern for something else?)
- Any other ideas / considerations?
We will not be able to suit everybody's needs. But we want to hear from the community what matters and see if we can pick up some new good ideas to get this 'right'. We're looking forward to lots of feedback (and opinions).
Replies
I only wished my DF13 plugs came out as easily as video 2 showed. I've not had the same luck with removing these cables and ultimately damaged my Pixhawk telemetry 2 port because the cable would not release. It took a jewelers flat blade screw driver to fight it out and that was with me carefully pry/twisting the screwdriver from the forward side of the plug. IMHO, there needs to be release locks much the way computer motherboards are setup for memory modules. Tiny metal (non-ferrous) locking clips on both ends will help ensure plugs stay in place and with tiny jeweler's screwdriver, easily popped to unlock and allow for easy removal of cable. I've damaged many cables and one Pixhawk board not to mention many IC2 expansion boards because I had to fight to get the cables to release from the plugs.
@Doug,
Removing the plastic locking wedges, but not the plastic guide ears on the sides of the connector, at the bottom of the front side of the connector is the easiest way to eliminate the problem of removing the connector from the socket on the board.
I have made this conversion on all of the DF13 connectors on my Pixhawk equipped rovers and have yet to have a connector come loose during rover operation over some pretty rough terrain.
These connectors are really designed for only occasional removal and are meant for circuit board interconnects where constant removal is not required or needed. They are small in size and take up very little pwb surface area which makes them attractive for designs like the Pixhawk, but a PIA for users.
Regards,
TCIII AVD
Hi Thomas
Do you have a picture of your mods?
Dwgsparky
@Dwgsparky,
The modification is really very simple.
If you get a magnifying glass and look at the bottom of the front side of the connector, you will see two little plastic wedges at each end of the front side of the connector.
I use a very sharp, thin Xacto blade to slice the wedges off of the front face of the connector starting at the top of the wedge and slicing downward.
Make sure you remove any excess plastic that may occur during the removal process.
Regards,
TCIII AVD
@Tom
aaaaah, got it, I understood the wedges were on the socket part in the Pixhawk but they are on the plugs attached to the cable. another brain cell bites the dust! Thank s Tom
I had many of my customers asking how to remove those connectors,
I don't really like to pull at the cables cause they get destroyed very easy.
I've made a video (posted as well in the other DF13 connector discussion):
https://youtu.be/M8KGVD608GQ
@Gary,
Using a DMM in the resistance or continuity mode, I would check to make sure that there are no shorts between the four parallel tracks of the I2C board and that there is continuity from end to end.
Regards,
TCIII AVD
I'd like to see something that's less of a giant PITA to use at some point. For now I will start modding them like everyone else is.
As far as the LED's go - personally, I think the current setup works quite well. How hard would it be to implement a simple LCD text display? Maybe not even on the PX itself, but as an IC2 plugin that could be mounted externally like the current LED / USB module possibly? When the unit is mounted inside, that could save some headache trying to see the tiny external LED and remember what the codes mean.
Hi Andrew, please see Cala's discussion of DF13 connectors including my response.
http://diydrones.com/group/pixhawk/forum/topics/pixhawk-connectors?...
This is not a new issue and you'r query will not be the last.
Best regards,
Gary
Hi Gary,
Thanks for the response. Ya, I am not a huge fan of them (actually, I think a lot of the connectors across the board, not just Pixhawk, are way too hard to manipulate in the RC/drone community). But removing some of the plastic tabs seems like the right thing to do, so I'll try that. I just don't want to break any more components.
Thanks again!
Cheers,
-Andrew
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