Y6 Frame 10 Conversion

I decided to convert my Y6 to the new frame 10 option.  Of course, the motor cables from the ESCs were only reachable by taking it apart, top frame off the bottom frame.  I labeled them as they were, disconnected, then re-connected in the new position.  Then whoops, taking off my hand made labels I knicked the signal wire from one of the ESCs.  First glance, only got the insulation.  Taped it up, and will try a motor spin test.  I will go back and double check the extent of the damage, presuming all motors are correctly spinning now.

My concern is the 3DR ESCs wiring is very small gauge.  Stripping insulation of very small wires, so I can solder the two ends together, is challenging, but will give a safe connection that I could trust. 

Any suggestions?




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  • Crashed yesterday when I was flying it to run Autotune in the new Frame 10 configuration. I posted in the 3.1 APM Forum.  I am not picking up anything from the logs that gives me any great insight.APM 3.1 Forum Post.

    While I checked the prop nuts, the real evidence may be that the newly changed out back props weren't tight enough.  Back bottom, No. 4, came completely off in flight.  The prop was on the ground intact, and I found the nut and spacer nearby.  I was in Alt. Hold, also Super Simple.  In the heat of the moment, since I started up back and away from home position (my local RC club safety rules), when it started heading backward at some point I wonder if it was behind home and my "forward stick" actually made it go further back to where our other pilots were.

    Either way, the new config took all of my 10" SFP props, and two were broken, so I ordered more, plus spares, from 3DR.

    I also have to see if I can reattach wires to a motor, or I will replace it (I have two spare motors).

    Any thoughts or insights would be appreciated.  Beginning to think my pre-flight might have been too casual.


  • As I put the Y6 back together and repaired the ESC No. 2 wire I accidentally cut, I re-ran the motor spin test program, and that worked fine.    I wanted to “Arm” it, as kind of a final pre-flight test,but the pre-arm checks were complaining about GPS satellites, and wouldn’t do it inside my outbuilding (it has in the past).

    So I put it outside, got it armed.  Test complete.  

    I would note that I had to put the Mot Spin parameter up to 100 before I could see the motors spin. 3692915069?profile=originalNow I am waiting for warmer weather to do a “Maiden Flight” once again (without the GoPro though).

    Since we are having the freezing effects of the "Polar Vortex" here in the Southeastern US, it's not "flying weather"

  • Turns out my Signal wire that goes to M2, or Bottom Right, was severed.  I was able to strip the two ends and solder them together.  I plan to tape it with friction tape, then work on putting "Humpty Dumpty" back together again.

    Not sure if I saw anyone with a specific flight endurance increase in minutes.  Also, as far as "motor out", I don't recall anyone testing.  I would believe that the APM would sense the impact in its roll/pitch/yaw, same as before, and attempt to correct it.  That said, it's just my guess.


  • If you change to the Frame 10 conversion, if one of the motors goes out will it still be able to fly. Has anyone tried it yet. The old motor set up if you loose a motor the Y-6 will still fly a little unstable but manageable to at least get it back on the ground safely. Just wondering...

  • I called it "Frame 10" option.  Historically, frame type in the APM planner for the Y6 defaulted, and didn't even matter.  The motor spin directions and sequence now has a new option, part of the 3.1 software.  I followed the discussions in the forums.

    The setting of the Frame parameter to "10" must be matched to changing the rear props as well as the order of the motors (connections of motors to PDB).  With frame 10 settings, all top motors spin in a single direction (Clockwise), and all bottom in the opposite (Counter-clockwise).  The motor spin sequence which you could observe in the Motor Spin test should be Top Right, Bottom Right, Top Back, Bottom Back, Top Left, and Bottom Left.  The back props have to be changed.  I had some spares so I could do this.

    When I asked about the purpose, other users say it is more efficient, and they are getting good results, including a little more flight time.

    I am planning to do a motor spin test in a little while.  Then I have to figure if the damage I caused to one wire will cause me to be Grounded until it gets fixed.


  • What is is the Frame 10 option?
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