Y6 Hot motors and ESCs

Hi, just been testing my Y6 with it's new 6000mah 4S pack and noticed the motors are getting hot. This is affecting the bottom motors more where if you touch them on the base, non rotating part, they are too hot to touch for more than a few seconds. The rest of the motor is hot but can be held without issue.

To check I did another flight with a 3S 4400mah setup and the motors were again getting hot, not as hot but the flight time was 5 mins vs 13 mins.

It's also worth noting with the 4S setup the ESCs were also getting hot, again after a 13 min test flight.

The flight itself basically consisted of a 13 minute hover in loiter mode, I was testing battery times, and consumed 5000mah. The weather for the UK was hot, 25 deg C. The Y6 is a new 2014 B version weighing 1900 grams or so, std config plus 600 gram pack, with std 10 inch props and 850 blue motors.

And finally to the question, is this normal of does something sound wrong?

The only thing I can think I haven't done is balance the props, guide for this would be handy, but I have no vibration issues looking at the data log.

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    • I replaced the stock motors with Turnigy Multistar 3525 650Kv and ESC with 30A Hobbywing Platinum to get some extra reserve for future upgrades and experiments.

      I don't think I really had to change ESCs for this setup, but my hex crashed in the ocean (I was kind of "lucky" it happened meters from the shore), and half of ESCs burned down in salty water. I was flying with NEX-5N camera and this setup was definitely under-powered, so I took my chance to upgrade the power plant. So far it works much better.

      I could easily fit 12" props with existing landing gear, but I opted for 13" for a bit better endurance. 

    • Hello Pektusin

      I'm going to follow your upgrade to get better endurance out of my Y6A.

      I have a few questions and I hope you don't mind answering them:

      - Can the Turnigy Multistar 3525 650Kv motor mount onto the existing Y6 round motor base?

      - if not, where can I get the motor base to secure the Turnigy motors to the Y6?

      - how did you manage to install a 13" prop without it getting in the way the landing gear?

      - What is the pitch of the 13" props?

      Thank you

    • Where did you get the motor plates?

    • They are the ATG 3K Motor base. 



  • What is too hot.  Look at some motor spec sheets and you will see operating temperatures above 50 degrees C.  One thing that might be causing the hot motor problem is you are using the prop sizes for that motor recommended for a 3S battery.  According to the spec sheet 3DR tech support sent me, for 2S 11x7 and 8x6 for 4S.  Max thrust accord to said sheet is 870g.

    • A 2s wouldn't even lift a Y6 off the ground. Per ecalc a 8x6 on 4s would stall. Neither would work.

      I think those specs are for single motor heli's or something. Either that or 3DR simply put too weak of a motor on their copters. Now that I've had a lot of flights, I'm ready to upgrade the motors; not sure what to get yet, but a lower kv is definitely a must.

      Of note in the spec:

      Please make sure your motor has enough cooling while running. Consider to put a whole into your model motor cover to improve the ventilation.

    • I am sorry, but I did not write the spec sheet.  I merely point out that the manufacturer's spec sheet says a 12 inch prop is way too big for this motor powered by a 4s battery.Now, if one prop is too big for one motor, unless they are all coaxial, is four of the same motors trying to driving four of the same props going to be any better?  If your answer is yes, please explain. 

    • The weight of the craft makes a huge difference in whether a 12 inch prop is too large or not. More weight=larger prop required=more stress on the motor. That was my point.

      Some mfrs rate their motor's application as for example: 500g x #motors=AUW for that motor design and then give 3 prop options. I think that's a quick and easy way to spec out a motor.

      The more I look into the design of the Y6/X4/X8, the more IMO the copters are underpowered especially if you want to add accessories. Yet you can't put larger props on because the motors will definitely overheat.  Before the crash a few weeks ago, I was very happy with the Y6. The biggest factor in my experience, because the motors are at the edge of their design intent, is having everything balanced and good tuning. Do those two things and the Y6 will treat you well. 

      While a light frame gives longer flight times, a heavier frame with the appropriate motors/props gives more stability with a sacrifice in flight time. My friend has a Scarab Y6 with 888 motors. It is a beautiful machine with AUW of 1.3kg using 4s 4200A battery. However, my Y6 tank @2.2kg (includes FPV tx/cam) holds much steadier in windier conditions.

      Looking at the Steadidrone Q4UD copters which are considerably lighter than a 3DR, they use a 3506 motor which IIRC is basically a T-Motor 650kv rated @260w.

      Am I going to toss the Y6 and start over? No, but I am getting close to pulling the trigger on new motors. At this point cost doesn't matter; reliability and flight time is most important.....to me. I've spent hours playing with Ecalc and it always comes down to larger props and lower kv.

      Any suggestions?

    • I haven't read all of this thread, but a few things stand out to me:

      The motors get hot. There is no measurement I've noted in what I've read about whether they get too hot or how hot exactly they get. Brine get very hot on a long flight, but very hot to touch May be fine for the motors.

      Motors are rated for current. If we are putting too much current through these motors, then we have a heat problem. If not, we don't. According to those who have run éclat on it, we are just within spec. I'm personally glad 3DR gave us a setup that is within spec without wasting resources with excess unused capacity. In spec is in spec.

      However, as noted above, using bent, unbalanced, or scratched up props will cause inefficiency, more power draw than needed to get the thrust, etc. I have run some pretty awful props for short times, but for any more than a five minute easy test hop, have presentable props without undue wear, scrapes, or chips.

      I bought 18 spare APC props, and. Used most of those up in the first month or two. I still have some left. I don't land badly much anymore, and I probably won't try to fly in a hotel room again,either. :). I got a balancer, too. Balancing does help.

      If you want to learn how to balance props, how to measure current draw, and why slapping triblades or bigger props on might lead to problems, invest some time in those topics over on the Flitetest site or their YouTube channel. Great beginner series there.
    • No doubt I've bought at least 18 props, balanced them all and also the motors, then proceeded to break a whole bunch. The learning curve was rough for a few weeks. The first real crash happened about 3 weeks ago; I believe it was a GPS glitch that caused it. Prior to that it was flying fine for many flights.

      You make some good points,  no regrets here buying the Y6 (even after 1 bad motor shipped and GPS failed), but please don't insult my intelligence by telling me to go to "beginner series" forums. I never claimed to be an expert on these multicopters, but do have an extensive mechanical background.

      Post the spec you are referring to that 3DR is within. I have not seen it. Has anyone else?

      E-calc's result for a motor (A2830-12 850kv) I suspect is very similar to what is on the Y6 is that the copter is underpowered; the motor rated at 200w and the Y6 exceeds that.  I classified the motor cooling as "very poor". Do you disagree with that? If so, then why are the motors approaching 200 deg F? What design benefit is there using flat plates that cover the cooling vents on the bottom of the motor? Someone here posted the motor mfr advising holes be put in the plate for sufficient cooling.

      If you want to be the water boy for 3DR, that's great. I just want to keep my Y6 running for as long as I can. Cooling the motors is a good start, but if they start failing, it's either more suitable motors or a new build completely.

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