Dear

i am a beginner i have set up each and every thing but when i armed my quad copter . motor no 1 satrt spining after 50% throttle whereas other 3 motors does not start spin  but when i move my pitch than one of my motor start spinning too but my other two motors were not spinning .yet....than i connect my apm through usb and set the pre arm check to 0 . but nothing happen and my motor spin arm is set to 70 and one thing is that when i trim my throttle alll the way down from my TX than its arming other wise not arming . plzz tell me what the problem is 

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  • MR60

    It's not how I'd wire thing up, but if it works ...

    Normal:

    - PM to power the FCU
    - ESC black and white wire to FCU pins for a cleaner signal
    - Remove all red wires from the ESC to FCU

    Other:

    - ESC BEC red wire from one ESC to power FCU and config the FCU to receive power from that source
    - Other red wires removed (but some say leave all four red wires connected for power backup)

    The signal from the FCU to the ESC is in a PWM form.  So it might work just fine without the ground wire because the ESC is looking at the length of the wave, not the amplitude.

    Long story short--Your friend is right but so is the way you wired it if it works.  See what happens once you install the 3S battery.

  • Dear Forentz.

    first of all thank you for your continous support. i ordered a 3s lipo and it is on the way . but yesterday my friend told me that there may be some problem in my wiring of esc to output rail let me tell you how i am wiring my whole APM and kindly let me know if i am doing any thing wrong. and plzz sorry for my childish questions....

    dear i am powering my APM using Simonk ESC BEC(5v 2A) with JP1 connected i am not using 3DR power module .and i have cutted down the red and black wire from all of my ESc BEC except one ....that one esc is connected with motor 1 and plugged in to the output pin no 1.....and for other three ESCs only signal wire is connected to the output pins.  and from input rail i did the same thing i have connected (S,+,-) of channel 1 to input pin # 1 and for all other channels the only signal wire is connected....... so this is the way i am powering my APM .... all motors are moving as seen in my video but i think my motors are getting little bit hot after continuous spinning for 4 to 5 minute .. so tell me about my wiring nd also tell me that is it normal to get motor hot..... again sorry for these type questions ... waiting for your reply


    Forrest Frantz said:

    yes. voltage (3.7 x S) determines how fast your props can spin (amps determine torque and watts determine thrust).  volts start at about 4.2 V per S and then drop through the flight until finally the voltage is too low to lift the ship (it can drop to 2.5 V per S). 

    you particular ship (from watching the video) needs about 10V to get is off the ground. a 3S battery will give you between 12 at the start to 8 at the end, so a 3S battery will fly your ship for about 2/3rds to 1/2 of it's rated capacity.  A 4S will be able to use all of its rated capacity (and it would fly really fast).

    buy a 3S or 4S battery based on its weight. you want it to weigh about the same as the 2S battery that you have now.  if you can't find the weights, then look at the 2S capacity.  Example:

    - your battery is 2S 2400 mAh = 4800 S-mAh

    - so buy a          3S 1600 mAh = 4800 S-mAh (1200 mAh to 2000 mAh)

    - or buy a           4S 1200 mAh = 4800 S-mAh (1000 mAh to 1500 mAh)  



    APM 2.8 Armed (solid Red LED) but motors spinning slow
    Dear i am a beginner i have set up each and every thing but when i armed my quad copter . motor no 1 satrt spining after 50% throttle whereas other 3…
  • MR60

    yes. voltage (3.7 x S) determines how fast your props can spin (amps determine torque and watts determine thrust).  volts start at about 4.2 V per S and then drop through the flight until finally the voltage is too low to lift the ship (it can drop to 2.5 V per S). 

    you particular ship (from watching the video) needs about 10V to get is off the ground. a 3S battery will give you between 12 at the start to 8 at the end, so a 3S battery will fly your ship for about 2/3rds to 1/2 of it's rated capacity.  A 4S will be able to use all of its rated capacity (and it would fly really fast).

    buy a 3S or 4S battery based on its weight. you want it to weigh about the same as the 2S battery that you have now.  if you can't find the weights, then look at the 2S capacity.  Example:

    - your battery is 2S 2400 mAh = 4800 S-mAh

    - so buy a          3S 1600 mAh = 4800 S-mAh (1200 mAh to 2000 mAh)

    - or buy a           4S 1200 mAh = 4800 S-mAh (1000 mAh to 1500 mAh)  

  • Dear Forrest

    i have sent you the video  of my first flight . now i am facing an issue that one of my motor is not moving so fast while other three motors are moving good enough that it is producing thrust to lift the quad... but i cant fly only because one of my motor(with white propeller) is moving slow than other... iam using 2s Lipo let me know if this is because of my 2S Lipo may be i need more voltage like 3s Lipo........and one thing is that i am using three simonk 30A( 5v 2A ) ESC BEC and one mystrey 30A (5v 3A) ESC BEC... and the motor which is not working good is connected with my Mystrey ESC BEC. please tell me that using mismatch ESC can cause this type of problem.....

    video-1534680639.mp4

    https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/3702440992?profile=original
  • MR60

    Anyone that teaches young engineers on robotics is on my hero list.  Well done.  Keep up the good work.

  • Wooh! This sounds interesting, I also train young engineering students, this mat idea is actually nice. Thanks for the idea Mr. Forrest.

  • MR60

    From documentation. "

    Arming the motors causes ArduPilot to apply power to your motors, which will cause them to start spinning. Before arming the motors, make sure all people, objects, and any body parts (e.g., hands) are clear of the propellers. Then do the following:

    Note

    You can only arm or disarm in Stabilize, ACRO, AltHold, Loiter, and PosHold modes. You cannot arm your copter in AUTO mode."

    Then the ship will auto-disarm after ten (or something) seconds if you don't try to take off.

    Please pay head to Shivam's advice.  I just trained an intern.  Using gym matts I made a 1 meter circle using tape. In stabilize mode and only 5ish cm from the ground:

    - try to hold the ship in the center of the circle

    - then try moving from the front to back of the circle

    - then try moving from the left to right of the circle

    - then try following the tape in a circle around clockwise

    - they try following the tape in a circle around counter clockwise

    - then rotate the ship 90 degrees right and repeat all of the above

    - then rotate the ship 90 degrees left and repeat all of the above

    - then rotate the ship 180 degrees so it faces you (making roll and pitch controls backwards)

    (this took her 15 days practicing 30 minutes a day)

    then you are ready for stabilize flight off of the mat.

    once you feel comfortable in stabilize flight, try acro.

  • Forrest is correct.

    And it is better for you to initially fly in Stabilize mode only, it will be very helpful in handling. 

    Hope you got ur solution.

    Forrest Frantz said:

    It is normal for the ship to not allow you to arm after a "normal" period of time.

    - If the ship is moved or sats or surrounding buildings/walls (natural or man made) or weather varies, GPS lock can vary with time from quite fast to what seems like forever

    - If near electrical power or a ferrous object buried or ... the mag might give an error that needs to be cleared

    - it's rare to see a barometer error

    If flying manual, then those types of errors might not matter.  You can disable those types of pre-flight checks in Mission Planner.

    But if using

    - position hold, loiter, auto, or RTL, then GPS lock is needed.

    - if using simple or easy variants of flight modes or auto camera-type pointing, then mag is needed

    On large ships with big batteries and motors, mag issues are extremely difficult to avoid and the normal "what is bad" rules do not apply.

    APM 2.8 Armed (solid Red LED) but motors spinning slow
    Dear i am a beginner i have set up each and every thing but when i armed my quad copter . motor no 1 satrt spining after 50% throttle whereas other 3…
  • 重新校准一下电调(checking and correcting  your Electric modulation again)

  • Dear  Forrest Frantz

    i thank to you and mr Shivam who helped me alot now my Apm is almost working good but there is only little problem that after arming my APM as i rise my throttle my motors start spining but after 4 to 5 sec all motor suddenly stops but my apm is still armed (solid red LED light). and nothing happens but as i switch on my mode 1 (stablize mode) my motor again start spinning and moving throttle up and down make my motor fast and slow.....and than if i switched off my stablize mode my motor keep spiining and work good .... 

    so why it is happening that in starting motor spinn but stopp spinning after 4 sec and why start spining again as i switched to stablize mode..

    my throttle_min is set to 100  and throttle_max is set to 1000. 

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