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Still working on a tray to mount all of the electronics on. What is not pictured is is 2 voltage monitors for the lipos, and the other battery. If anyone has any suggestions I am all ears. Hopefully the electronics on the top that close to each other won't cause any excessive noise or stuff.

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  • Im in the process of making a foam tray for the apm and possible the RX module. My first try out of 1/2 foam was a disaster with pieces of foam everywhere. Even with a sharp knife the foam just flakes you know?   Then as an eperiment I heated up and exacto knifw and it cut instantly and left a sealed edge! then the problem beccame the knife had to be hot enough to cut through till the end, but the first part was way to receded.

    Finally I got a metal square and marked of the cuts ahead of time. I used a knife (it doesnt have to be sharp) and I left the metal square in place to hold the knife against, and I heated up a whole bread style knife (with handle) on the stove and in one second cut the entire edge out cleanly and neatly! Im debating making a 3rd revision, but this one is pretty good. Id just like to stiffen it up. I used to have a clear binary liquid that would hard around things.....but now Im thinking about a couple small foam brushes, and a whole tube of epoxy and just paint all side of it, and hang it with a paperclip. what do you think?

  • T3

    I just started flying the FX61 and decided to go small on the motor. I'm running an old quadcopter motor, 2836 750kv swinging a 10x5 apc style prop on a 3s 5Ah. In flight current draw is between 2 and 2.5 amps at 1/2 throttle where it flies nice. 9 amps current on t/o with 780 grams thrust. It takes a good toss, but AUW is only 1300 grams. Eventually I plan on using NCR 18650B battery packs and going for major endurance. I think I am going to upgrade to a slightly higher KV motor so I can climb a little better, but stay with the prop and a 2836 can. With my current battery an hour should be no problem, I am going to try tomorrow if the weather holds up. 

    I made the wings removable by gluing a SUPER lightweight tube into the wing and fuse and sliding the spar into that. I also used some arrow shaft as a forward pin. Rubber bands keep the wings from pulling out. I wound't go to crazy with aerobatics or anything on this setup, but its got at least 30 min of flight time on it so far with no problems. 

    I am running my 5.8 ghz CP antenna out one of the bottom holes, I find this always gives me good reception on the return flight home. Where I have the camera mount right now is no good, it gets smashed during a nose in landing (crash, lol). A smooth landing does not affect the camera. I would like to keep it recessed somehow but still with a clear view and safe. Ideas?

    I am having some issues with my FrSky receiver causing the GPS to not get a lock. If I turn off the FrSky, get the lock, then turn it on I have no issue. So I'd say I need to separate them some more, but I really don't want to make assembling the beast any more complex. Is there a rule of thumb on how far apart the 2.4 ghz telemetry-receiver, GPS, and Xbee should all be apart by? Maybe I can just turn the telemetry feature of the FrSky off, but I don't know how. I kinda use it for the RSSI beeps on my transmitter, but could do without. MP could announce that instead as I have Xbee. The Xbee is just taped to the top as I don't really know where I want it yet. 

    I did not glue on the top foam piece of my motor mount as I felt it just blanked out the airflow to the prop too much. I think the bird looks fine without it anyways. 

    The wing tube I used is from McMaster Carr

    86555K224 1 Each Impact-resistant Garolite (ce), 7/16" Od X 3/8" Id, 1/32" Wall Thick, 40" Length)

    A fun bird so far!


    FX61 inside.jpg

    FX61 bottom.jpg

    • Hey Matt, did you get a chance to fly her yet? Im just wondering how the stock motor and prop will do with 2 5000 mah Lipos? I may do the same thing, only with dual 4000MAH I have that are the same as your (just smaller) I hope I didnt screw the pooch by painting it with the rubber coating....but I don't think I added too much.

      I am going to put my APM on a tray in the exact middle of the craft.....It never occured to me to mount the APM on to one side. I would have thought that would have given you all kinds of problems since what it takes to correct it to one side on auto is different then the other. Also are we supposed to use the APM to adjust the wings so their straight when everything is on auto, or should we do that mechanically by adjusting rod length. Normally I would just use the trim on the TX, But that doesnt come into play when your flying with the APM on auto.

    • I did. And it failed brutally. I had a parameter wrong in the APM that caused the throttle to be only about 50% or 60% of what it needed. So it could not get airborne with a hand launch. Once I fixed that, I had already removed an excess of weight including the extra battery. But I feel really confident that it would fly with comfort using the 2 5000MAH batteries. It has plenty of power. And I would def. recommend cutting some foam off at the back behind the prop. It really does quiet it down a whole lot.

      As for adjusting the trim, I would try and get it as close as possible mechanically by adjusting the rods, then move to trim. Whenever I finished adjusting mine, stabilize mode would center the control surfaces almost perfectly. 


  • I have my APM 2.5+ setup on my FX-61.  I have the 3DR Telemetry V2 all setup and connected up on my Nvidia Shield.  ImmersionRC 5.8Ghz 600mW transmitter and I have both Fatshark Dominator goggles and 5" LCD with built in 5.8Ghz that works with ImmersionRC/Fatshark freq and it has build in DVR - mounted on my Spektrum DX8 using a mount from Long Range RC which you can also see in the pic.  



    • Very nice setup!

    • Cool, I've never seen a Nvidia Shield. Had to google it right away. I assume you run the droid mission planner app on it and it has a normal usb port for the radio?

  • Here are some more pics for my custom SunnySky motor mount - 1200kV feel allot stronger on the desk and the SynnySky motor runs super smooth. Looked on the desk like very low current draw on lower RPM. Really wondering how it will do in the air.


    • yes, the 1200 kV will make it really fast! but it will draw more current.
      Mine draws about 4 A at cruise speed.
      Be sure to reinforce the wings, because at high speeds they tend to flutter a lot. (it will destroy the airframe eventually)

      I laminated my wings and no more flutter. very rigid!

    • Mine draws about 4 A at cruise speed.

      That's with the original 900kv motor?? What size prop do you use?

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