Just one thought in that octo configuration with the propeller diameter required by the motor spacing, a high percentage of the propeller blades thrust runs directly into the big plaastic noodle you have around the rim.
Fro looking at what you have even though the noodle is sort of round I would guess at least 30 percent of your thrust is being wasted pushing against your own frame.
If the props were on the bottom this would be much less of a problem or if you got rid of or at least reduced the size of the noodle.
Just a thought, maybe worth a flight or 2 over grass without the noodle to see if the performance and endurance gains were worth it.
ok seriously... this was the result of a few hours mashing up what equipment I had laying around.
I have made three different versions of this, trying different setups and configurations.
The ring makes it really easy to set up different configurations. I can go from Y6 to quad to Octo all in one day.
The best configuration so far has been the Y6.
I have given up on the idea of adding a gimble. ts too delicate and heavy for me. Although the ring would make a very stable AP platform, this design is being geared for FPV bashing.
The curent set up uses Flyduino Spider frame plates. ESC's are sandwiched between the plates, mounted on spacers to allow an airflow. The inner plates are sealed and water resistant, but have sufficient air space for adequate cooling.
If the rim is destroyed in a crash, it is fast easy and economical to switch the frame. The center module has all of the electronics safely contained, and so switching to a new rim is no problem.
Changing motors, or switching configurations is super easy as well... just unbolt the motors, and attach the new ones, or switch the type. Y6, Quad, Hexa, Octo... easy.
Motors are mounted using standard x mounts, bolted together thru the frame as well as with spacers between the inner and outer tabs. This mounting is simple, lightweight and effective.
Additional U shaped tabs could be used to extend the mounting positions of the motors. For the Y6 configuration, a maximum of 17" props can be used. This is due also to the absence of a center mounted gimbal.
The Gopro camera is mounted on the front of the ring, and has a tilt mount. The APM will stabilize the gopro for level on one axis. The camera's position is offset and balanced by the placement of the battery. It allows for the greatest size prop to be used, without restricting the camera's view.
The FPV camera's are easily placed around the rim. a 3 way switch makes the most of multiple views, in favor of a head tracker. The additional expense, complication and tweaky delicate nature of head tracking turned me off. If I want to look left right or down, I just flick a switch.
I won't say that the rim is bombproof.... It did manage to destroy one, but it took an awful beating first. What did it in the end was a vertical drop from 100' onto its side. The rim fractured in multiple places. an hour later, and for a few bucks, I was flying again...
The flight stability, resolution, is uncanny. Having all the motors on a single lightweight stiff frame, completly decoupled from the FC... its something you will just have to try. Aside from the fact that the rim almost 200g lighter than any other 550mm Y6 frame I have seen ( 550g), having the FC isolated and mecanically separate from the motors... The effect is exponential, and its all good.
Here is a list to assemble what I believe to be a very capable performance Multi... of course the possibilities are vast.
Mavic A 319 Rim
Flyduspider frame plates or Power Distribution / Flight Stack of your choice ( I like the Gryphon w/ BEC)
8x 300mm wire spokes and nipples
4/6/8x 2215 - 900Kv / 3510 - 630Kv / 4114 340Kv (make sure you get extra long leads, or make your own wires)
6x 30A 6s ESC w/ Simon K ( I use 2x Quattro 30A, so I can use Octo config, or have built in spare ESC's for Hexa)
6x 15 -17" cw/ccw propellers
Motor Mount Hardware:
6x 35mm X type motor mounts
6x 25mm pillar spacers
12x 40mm Hex bolt w/ lock nut
Y6 setup, with 3510- 630Kv, and 16/5 prop on 10000mAh is the set up I recommend.
Perfect! Looking forward to seeing some footage of it flying. With all those motors, you could mount a few more equally spaced GoPros around the perimeter. Nice work.
Comments
Octo was a test... not very effective for flight time, the redundancy is nice... I found That Y6 was my Favorite config.
watch the you tube vid for the updated version.... no more noodles :) thats good advice!
I just used the noodle to keep the thing protected... now the ESC are in the center stack... water proofed.
I am getting longer flight times for sure...
Hi Brian,
It is a very interesting bicycle wheel design.
Just one thought in that octo configuration with the propeller diameter required by the motor spacing, a high percentage of the propeller blades thrust runs directly into the big plaastic noodle you have around the rim.
Fro looking at what you have even though the noodle is sort of round I would guess at least 30 percent of your thrust is being wasted pushing against your own frame.
If the props were on the bottom this would be much less of a problem or if you got rid of or at least reduced the size of the noodle.
Just a thought, maybe worth a flight or 2 over grass without the noodle to see if the performance and endurance gains were worth it.
I think the gains might be considerable.
Best Regards,
Gary
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybVmolGojog
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hqu-uU4RRw4
ok seriously... this was the result of a few hours mashing up what equipment I had laying around.
I have made three different versions of this, trying different setups and configurations.
The ring makes it really easy to set up different configurations. I can go from Y6 to quad to Octo all in one day.
The best configuration so far has been the Y6.
I have given up on the idea of adding a gimble. ts too delicate and heavy for me. Although the ring would make a very stable AP platform, this design is being geared for FPV bashing.
The curent set up uses Flyduino Spider frame plates. ESC's are sandwiched between the plates, mounted on spacers to allow an airflow. The inner plates are sealed and water resistant, but have sufficient air space for adequate cooling.
If the rim is destroyed in a crash, it is fast easy and economical to switch the frame. The center module has all of the electronics safely contained, and so switching to a new rim is no problem.
Changing motors, or switching configurations is super easy as well... just unbolt the motors, and attach the new ones, or switch the type. Y6, Quad, Hexa, Octo... easy.
Motors are mounted using standard x mounts, bolted together thru the frame as well as with spacers between the inner and outer tabs. This mounting is simple, lightweight and effective.
Additional U shaped tabs could be used to extend the mounting positions of the motors. For the Y6 configuration, a maximum of 17" props can be used. This is due also to the absence of a center mounted gimbal.
The Gopro camera is mounted on the front of the ring, and has a tilt mount. The APM will stabilize the gopro for level on one axis. The camera's position is offset and balanced by the placement of the battery. It allows for the greatest size prop to be used, without restricting the camera's view.
The FPV camera's are easily placed around the rim. a 3 way switch makes the most of multiple views, in favor of a head tracker. The additional expense, complication and tweaky delicate nature of head tracking turned me off. If I want to look left right or down, I just flick a switch.
I won't say that the rim is bombproof.... It did manage to destroy one, but it took an awful beating first. What did it in the end was a vertical drop from 100' onto its side. The rim fractured in multiple places. an hour later, and for a few bucks, I was flying again...
The flight stability, resolution, is uncanny. Having all the motors on a single lightweight stiff frame, completly decoupled from the FC... its something you will just have to try. Aside from the fact that the rim almost 200g lighter than any other 550mm Y6 frame I have seen ( 550g), having the FC isolated and mecanically separate from the motors... The effect is exponential, and its all good.
Here is a list to assemble what I believe to be a very capable performance Multi... of course the possibilities are vast.
Mavic A 319 Rim
Flyduspider frame plates or Power Distribution / Flight Stack of your choice ( I like the Gryphon w/ BEC)
8x 300mm wire spokes and nipples
4/6/8x 2215 - 900Kv / 3510 - 630Kv / 4114 340Kv (make sure you get extra long leads, or make your own wires)
6x 30A 6s ESC w/ Simon K ( I use 2x Quattro 30A, so I can use Octo config, or have built in spare ESC's for Hexa)
6x 15 -17" cw/ccw propellers
Motor Mount Hardware:
6x 35mm X type motor mounts
6x 25mm pillar spacers
12x 40mm Hex bolt w/ lock nut
Y6 setup, with 3510- 630Kv, and 16/5 prop on 10000mAh is the set up I recommend.
Cost... under $450 PNP
Frame replacement $40...... think about it.
Perfect! Looking forward to seeing some footage of it flying. With all those motors, you could mount a few more equally spaced GoPros around the perimeter. Nice work.