ArduIMU+ V3 camera gimbal stabilizer on IndieGoGo


My original blog post offering a bounty on software for the ArduIMU v3 to make it into a very good standalone camera gimbal stabilizer attracted alot of criticism and at the same time alot more support.  There are many people who have joined my cause, and pledged to either match my bounty or contribute towards the bounty.  So many pledges that it has become hard to track.  One member suggested using Kickstarter. However as a non-US resident I was not able to create a project on Kickstarter so one has been created on IndieGoGo.

Don't forget that whilst the $10 contribution is appreciated, and you contribute as much as you like, matching my $100 bounty is even more appreciated.  And for $225 I'll get a ArduIMU and solder the connectors and flash the firmware for you.

[EDIT: The 30 March deadline has now been extended until 11 May or until the bounty is claimed, which ever comes first.

It looks like this is getting pretty big with a number of contenders and backers, ie. more than just my $100 reward.  Whilst my offer for a $100 reward plus bonus still stands for the FIRST person to deliver code that meets the specification;  I would like to propose that the contributions/backers/funders on IndieGoGo vote at the end of the project (11 May) who should receive the funds raise on IndieGoGo (less the 9% fee that IndieGoGo charge).

So essentially there will be the $100 plus bonuses from me for the FIRST app, and the IndieGoGo pool for the BEST app.


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  • @ Torq, Don't use those power connections. Thats the input to the onboard regulator, and you can't use that to power servos. Since you all ready need a 5 BEC you can use that to power the board. The power connections to the servos you need to do your self with perf board and a row of two or three pin connectors. Like this.

    3692443186?profile=originalThe input and output locations are correct. The capacitor is optional. Please test all your connections before powering up to ensure that no + to - pins are shorted or anything else. Please be careful so you don't fry your board. If you are not 100 % sure of what your doing, then don't do it ask for help.

  • In the meantime I also tried the code version from Michael Oborne and it worked out of the box for me. Though I got hyroglyphs in the terminal window the stabilization itself worked very well. From what I saw some of the code might be from here:

    Having a 2g accel calibration scale is very good for what I want but does anybody know the correct calibration registers for a gyro scale of 250 deg/sec. The ones used in the code are for 2000 deg/sec:

    void MPU6000_set_gyro_calibration()
      byte regs[4];
      MPU6000_set_mpu_memory(0x03, 0x7B, 0x03, regs);        //FCFG_1 inv_set_gyro_calibration
      MPU6000_set_mpu_memory(0x03, 0xAB, 0x03, regs);        //FCFG_3 inv_set_gyro_calibration
      MPU6000_set_mpu_memory(0x00, 0x68, 0x04, regs);        //D_0_104 inv_set_gyro_calibration
      MPU6000_set_mpu_memory(0x02, 0x18, 0x04, regs);        //D_0_24 inv_set_gyro_calibration

    Simply trying to change  MPU6000_SPI_write(MPUREG_GYRO_CONFIG,BITS_FS_2000DPS);  to BITS_FS_250DPS compiles but leads to a trifting servo output...



  • something like that? I can't understand how you to connect - and + to servos, if someone clarify this I'll complete the draw for the wiki!3692442735?profile=original

    I hope that guys of arducopter not get angry for having used the same style.


    i'm going crazy with the two copy of the topic :(

  • To any potential testers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   Check the wiki again. I had the pitch and poll pins revesed. Thanks to Torg's graphic it has been sorted out. Go by the wiki.

  • Torg, OMG the pitch and roll are reversed. I followed your graphic instead of my notes, just to check. You drawing is right to my wrong wiki. Many thanks, reverse pitch and roll on yours and it will be correct. I will do the same on the wiki. And also put the bec 5V to the GND and 5V lines on the top side of the board. I am not using the regulator, and especially not on the servos. I would like to put it in the wiki.

    To all. If any one tries it, please comment here!

    Going to fix the wiki now, thanks Torg.

    Oh Torg>>>>>>

    PPM in and PPM out are only used if you change the user parameters. The default is normal RC channels. Just don't use them if you don't know what it is. PPM is 9 channels of RC on one line, like it goes to the radio. It is 'Pulse Position Modulation'

  • this scheme is right with what's in the wiki? What is PPM PPM IN and OUT?3692441976?profile=original

  • Greg can you please take a look at your DIYDRONES inbox ?

  • New gimbal code for the imu3 here.  I have a wiki on how to set servo limits. It's easy. It takes rc input(ppm/pwm) and has 3 pwm outputs. It can output ppm too as it was born from my head tracker that I wrote for this board. Try the cli. Set the ardu serial monitor to  38400 and type "set up".

  • With the new code, it is now operating as well. I have a bit of strange behavior when manually manipulating the gimbal via RC, but too early to tell. I have not tried adding the mediatek to the ArduIMU, should this work or cause any problems? When I get more time I will hook it up to a true gimbal and attempt to determine some performance.

  • Developer

    btw, the pic you uploaded of teh back of the arduimu is correct.

    rc inputs are on a0 to a3, so there is room for "switch" expansion

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