Posted by Jordi Muñoz on October 12, 2009 at 2:30pm
Hi there! I'm happy to announce the new ArduIMU firmware and ground station, you can download it from here:http://code.google.com/p/ardu-imu/downloads/listWhat new in the firmware:-You can now select DCM, Euler Angles our both.-Enable GPS output data.-Some minor bug fixed.-The orientation of the gyros and accels are now corrected.Whats new in the Ground Station:-Now the Baud speed is set to 38400 bps to be compatible with ArduPilot uBlox GPS.-You can see now the Euler Angles generated on the uController.-Better debug tools.-GPS information.-Raw Data.What i'm doing now:-Designing new PCB's.-Improving ArduPilot code.-FPV testing with ArduPilot.-Taking care of the business and shipments.-Improving the Store.-Going to School.-Trying to answer some emails.-Always trying to get a beer and some Sushi..Please be patient, I'm always working for you! ;-) Thanks for you support!
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Posted by Jordi Muñoz on October 6, 2009 at 12:28pm
This is a rough/raw release of my ArduStation with tracking antenna support. In order to make it work you must calibrate your servo's range (pan 360 degrees, tilt 45 degrees). It uses your actual altitude and location against the altitude/position of your aircraft to accurately point your antenna. I guess the resolution is pretty good!What you need to do to make it work with ArduPilot:-Go inside the code an calibrate your sensors, using this line on the first tab://Servo Calibration!!!!Pan.attach(9,1000,1990);//PAN ServosTilt.attach(10,600,2150);//Tilt ElevatorThe second and third values are the min and max in milliseconds of the servos. (The first value is the Servo Pin Port)Then go to the definitions at the beginning and change these values. To activate them just change it for "1":#define TEST_PAN 0 //Test pan min and max (for calibration).#define TEST_SOUTH 0 //test south (the antenna will just point to south).#define TEST_TILT 0 //test the tilt max and min (for calibration).After you see your tracking antenna is working right, go to the flight field and point your antenna (in south test mode) to your true south... I chose south as a default because when you're between 1 and 360 degrees the antennas makes full rotations to jump from degree 1 to degree 360.You can download the lastest code here:ArduStation_V13.zipRead more…Developer
Posted by Jordi Muñoz on October 1, 2009 at 11:00am
I just want to tell anybody whats going on:1.-Sales grew exponentially this month. The old store with a few sales a day and commodity to produce just a few units a week to keep it running NO longer exist. That means good changes here, more people over there and maybe extra external help.2.- I'm introducing the new ArduPilot Shield, has the labels corrected and a real mux to support all the GPS on the market, letting you upload code without disconnect it. I will offer four versions:-The economic version (Without 3.3V power regulator): Available with and without pressure sensor. This is the best option for uBlox + Adapters and EM406 owners that already have the old shield. The pressure sensor is expensive so you can rip it off from the old one to save some rupees.-Standard version (with 3.3V power regulator): Will be available with and without pressure sensor.-All available as a Kit.3.-The new ArduPilot Shields, uBloxs and uBlox adapters are stuck in China! Some kind of Dragon Christmas (National Day) will delay one week everything at least for the PCB's. Great! Sorry for the inconveniences!4.-For those who bought the Remzibi OSD, please patient, 30 units are on its way to the US and i will relay them to everybody after they have arrived, the USPS tracking is CP 11 628 509 5 PL. ;-)5-Today i will ship all the backordered ArduIMU's. Sorry for the delay!6-Please welcome 23 years old JB Aletky, he is part of DIYdrones store crew now, helping us packing, assembling and testing ArduPilots, he has a few R/C flight skills (LOL):
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Posted by Jordi Muñoz on September 30, 2009 at 4:59pm
Hi there, well I'm happy to announce the new ArduPilot 2.4 firmware, i still have many things to add, but i will leave them for 2.5 .What's new:-Improved ADC conversion, now uses interrupts to free some CPU.-uBlox parser bug fix, now i can navigate better.-Added a new header option called "ALT_HOLD_HOME". Let you select what altitude you want to hold for home, 0 will hold the altitude you are when you switch to RTL, 1 = will hold the altitude defined on the confiq. tool.-Altitude hold dramatically improved for my Easystar. (Thanks to Bill!).-Airspeed and throttle control improved.To do:-Add Happy Kill More code for Remzibi Integration.-Change the TX protocol to binary.-Use interrupts for the serial output.-Header typos correction.-Maybe cross-track error or another solution to fly straight lines between waypoints.Source Code: ArduPilot_EasyStar_V24.zipMy header: easystar.hRead more…Developer
Posted by Jordi Muñoz on September 24, 2009 at 5:00pm
I'm proud to offer one of the best OSD's on the market. Specially the configuration tool and the fact that is fully customizable!I also offered because we are working together (Remzibi, HappyKill and me) to make it 100% compatible with Ardupilot, in order to display all the telemetry data on it. In the near future you will be able to have a full autopilot with IMU and OSD telemetry. Nice.. What else you need? (beside directional antenna, we are working on that too).If you see them on stock you better hurry, because they will going to be mainly out stock due to the high demand!To buy or reserve one (in case they are out of stock), go to our store. Also you will be able to see a demo video i did. I've lost the Spektrum 2.4Ghz connection and i started to dive! What i did is rise the Remote Control in order to regain control, i was lucky and i was able to bring it back to home safely and all thanks to the Remzibi compass navigation!http://store.diydrones.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=remzibi_v11Read more…Developer
Posted by Jordi Muñoz on September 18, 2009 at 12:00pm
Hello, for those waiting for the XYZ now is the time! I stock some units yesterday and they are almost sold out but i will add more this weekend.Sorry i had to increase the price, the stock market for those IR sensor is low and i was unable to get them with the same price as before, actually the price increase of each sensor was just like 2.10 dlls, but that's enough to increase price up to 13 bucks per unit! DAMN! Otherwise everybody will have to wait undefined time.http://store.diydrones.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SE-0002-01Read more…Developer
Posted by Jordi Muñoz on September 15, 2009 at 11:00am
Finally i figure out the problem that was limiting the number of waypoints on ArduPilot. The issue was in several parts (Confiq. tool, Ardupilot code and Atmega328 fuse bits). Anyway is ready (i guess) and you can download the Confiq. Tool from here:Release.zip (Note that this Confiq. Tool is not HappyKillMore approved yet ;-) )The latest code for ArduPilot can be found here:http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot/About the fuse bits i guess SparkFun is using the same configuration used for the Atmegas168, and the Atmega328 is different. When i was trying to debug the EEPROM and tried to dump it with the ISP and it was clear (only 0xFF's). Then i checked the fuses and I discovered that the EEPROM protection was enabled and the Bootloader protection was disabled. So i guess some ArduPilot's will fail overtime and you will need to reprogram the Bootloader. Why? Because when you don't protect the bootloader section (the one used to upload the firmware via the serial port) may get corrupted in some scenarios. I will notify about the problem.Before posting this i took a brand new ArduPilot, i ripped off the pink plastic bag and i read the fuses, and yeap the same issue:
Posted by Jordi Muñoz on September 11, 2009 at 1:00pm
I have to be honest; i tried to kept this project as a little secret to void people waiting for it, so i have plenty of time to prototype. Not to mention that everything was running very slow because the school and we were moving the business to another location.I would like to give special thanks to Chris Anderson, Nathan Seidle (from SparkFun) and specially to William Premerlani, we've spent a great time together trying to adapt the code into Arduino Environment, a great experience for me (absolutely). Thank you Bill!The ArduIMU V2 is intended to be used for learning and general robotics, also will set the starting point for next incoming IMU based ArduPilot's (at the end of this year) and lot more! The code is based on the very well known Arduino Environment and is Open Source (of course!).The hardware consists on 3 axis accelerometers/gyroscopes, dual power regulator (3.3v and 5v), GPS port, an Atmega328@16mhz and a lot of status LED's.The code uses Direction Cosine Matrix code (By Bill Premerlani) and some other stuff extracted from ArduPilot (developed by me). You can read more about DCM here.The mass production is not clear yet, but the sensors can be purchased now from SparkFun or from our store. For now i will assemble just a few boards (ready to use) and sell them the next week (controller board with sensors) for around 100 bucks, sorry... For around $99 dlls. =) But being honest i will have to increase tiny bit the price to keep the DIYdrones store alive! Moving the business was kinda expensive.About the boards color, i will kindly ask Nate to change the color to blue because I'm unable to match his red (mine is more like orange). All the incoming boards from us will be blue anyway. =)The code will be released next week with the hardware. Please be patient. Thank you!Here is a demo video:
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Posted by Jordi Muñoz on August 19, 2009 at 12:30pm
Finally, after many weeks trying to debug the NORTH-EAST issue we finally fix it. Thanks to everybody who help me out with this one.The code is available for download here:http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot/Read more…Developer
Posted by Jordi Muñoz on August 11, 2009 at 5:37pm
uBlox adapter is ready for Pre-order here (remember is FIFO service). The price is $19.90, i can't give it for less, is extremely difficult place the tiny uBlox connector, always after the reflow the 50% of the boards have pins that are making short circuit and i have to repair it manually. Due to the lack of time i will ship the first orders that are placed before Friday, luckily they will be ready and shipped the next Monday 08/17/09.uBlox is the only GPS that let you mix Binary Protocol (ArduPilot) and NMEA (for OSD's). Super accurate and truly 4Hz refresh rate.It even works indoors:
Adapter features:-Ultra clean On-board 3.3V power regulator.-Input power selector (3.3V or >=5V).-Rechargeable backup battery (2 weeks)-Super small, almost same GPS profile.-EM406 Connector (ArduPilot Ready!).-Regular pin holes for easy integration with any project.
Soon i will offer the package that includes the uBlox unit, the adapter and is pre-configured for ardupilot for only $95 dlls.
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Posted by Jordi Muñoz on August 11, 2009 at 4:30pm
Whats new:-Upgrade the navigation algorithms for the REAL ones.-Fixed the airspeed (yeah the problem was the groundstation not the ardupilot itself).If you have an ardustation download the version >= 1.2 please.-I added the RSP (Roll Set Point) variable to know if the NAV is doing the right job.-I added the TEST_SENSORS in line 5-8. This will inject the orientation data comingfrom the IR’s sensors to the servos, so you can test fast and easily if you setup is correct.If the rudder/ailerons and elevators moves contrary to the aircraft orientation means you’re are OK.-I added the CALIBRATE_SERVOS in line 5-7. Will let you see the range of your servos(+-45 degrees). For example in my Hitec HS-81 the full range of +-90 degrees is 600ms and 2400ms,this values must be set in SERVOS MAX and MIN located in lines 3-1 to 3-4 (now are in depended forailerons and elevator), you should see you servo moving perfectly 45 degrees (IF NOT, ADJUST IT!).-Walk Around mod. Line 5-6, If is set to 0 will let you test visually the navigation.Actually will disable the stabilization and will pulse the rudder/ailerons servo directly.You can also use it as ArduPilot V10 (is what actually does to navigate).Ardupilot V10 can be killed now.-FIxed the Header comments (Chris actually did it).Tricky, Tricky!I have found some Tricks:-If you don’t connect the receiver to the ardupilot it will get stuck when the GPS is not fix and during the start up.This thanks to the PulseIn function (not my fault).-Note in this version the PI gains are not calibrated i need to tune them again.-I've change the default servo polarity (plug and play in my setup (= ) Nothing personal really.ArduPilot23_RC1.zipRead more…Developer
Posted by Jordi Muñoz on August 11, 2009 at 11:30am
If you ever wonder how to read and decode the protocol check this:The protocol looks like this in terminal:!!!LAT:33952600,LON:-117409072,SPD:0.38,CRT:0.00,ALT:0,ALH:0,CRS:185.80,BER:94,WPN:0,DST:25853,BTV:11.84,***+++ASP:0,THH:85,RLL:26,PCH:-31,STT:2,***+++ASP:6,THH:85,RLL:27,PCH:-30,STT:2,***+++ASP:11,THH:85,RLL:27,PCH:-29,STT:2,***+++ASP:14,THH:77,RLL:28,PCH:-29,STT:2,***+++ASP:15,THH:72,RLL:28,PCH:-28,STT:2,***!!!LAT:33952596,LON:-117409072,SPD:0.24,CRT:0.00,ALT:0,ALH:0,CRS:185.57,BER:94,WPN:0,DST:25853,BTV:11.88,***+++ASP:16,THH:68,RLL:29,PCH:-23,STT:2,***+++ASP:18,THH:60,RLL:30,PCH:-20,STT:2,***+++ASP:17,THH:61,RLL:31,PCH:-21,STT:2,***+++ASP:14,THH:69,RLL:30,PCH:-27,STT:2,***+++ASP:13,THH:71,RLL:29,PCH:-31,STT:2,***There's a low rate string at 1hz that start with !!! and the second string is 4hz and starts with +++, both finish with ***.You need to be able to search for the head of every string like "LAT:", without care of the order, then you read the value after and stop until you reach the comma. In C/C++ are functions that do that for you, if you need an example please read the ardustation source code.Definitions low rate:LAT: LatitudeLON: LongitudeSPD: Speed over ground from GPSCRT: Climb Rate in M/SALT: Altitude in metersALH: The altitude is trying to holdCRS: Course over ground in degrees.BER: Bearing is the heading you want to goWPN: Waypoint number, where WP0 is home.DST: Distance from WaypointBTV: Battery Voltage.RSP: Roll setpoint used to debug, (not displayed here).Definitions high rate:ASP: Airspeed, right now is the raw data.TTH: Throttle in 100% the autopilot is applying.RLL: Roll in degrees + is right - is leftPCH: Pitch in degreesSST: Switch Status, used for debugging, but is disabled in the current version.I know the protocol sucks but is very flexible and i can add and remove new strings when ever i want without damaging the parsing of every groundstation. In ArduPilot Mega i will use ONLY binary protocol with Message ID's, Payload Bytes and CheckSums, better/faster/efficient/flexible..Enjoy!
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Posted by Jordi Muñoz on August 4, 2009 at 11:00pm
You don't have an ArduStation yet? Came on, buy one now!Well the 80% of the work was made inside. So whats new?-I fixed the issue with the buzzer that sometimes used to drift.-Now you can record the home position and stays even if you disconnect the unit. This function will let me do many things with the board.-Now you can see the 2D/3D distance, direction and the altitude angle of your aircraft. This info will let me control the antenna and will help you spot your aircraft in the air.-I added a tiny and very funny arrow (like the OSD's) that indicates the heading and the waypoint bearing of your aircraft.-Added the new RSP = Roll set point variable, for debugging. If the value is positive means your aircraft is trying to turn right, if is negative is trying to turn left. This is the actual value coming from the navigation function and telling to the stabilization (autopilot) where to go.The next addition is the directional antenna, I'm just waiting for the material.
For those who don't know the meaning of the data, here it is:WP# = Waypoint NumberCRS = Course over groundBER = Bearing (the direction of the waypoint)GSP = Ground SpeedASP = AirSpeedALT = AltitudeRSP = Roll set pointThe code is locate here:http://code.google.com/p/ardu-station/[UPDATE] I forgot to mention that you need the replace (update) the folder called "LiquidCrystal" (is an arduino library for the LCD). The new library folder is included in the same file of the ardustation code,inside "libraries". Then just copy/paste it into the arduino IDE: "\\arduino-0016\hardware\libraries". You are done!Enjoy!
Attack! But please one unit per person! The demand is so high, be nice with others!To buy it click here please.[Copy/Paste Update]:Also note that FMA XY is $43, the Z sensor wasanother $25, and the cable wasn't included. So that was at least $75with cables. Also, we have to pay a royalty to FMA and don't buy partsat the same volume they do. Plus, of course, FMA doesn't make the Z atall anymore.You might also want to note that our sensors are less than thePaparazzi ones ($125:http://ppzuav.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=13_5&products_id=66&osCsid=08841e8ba7cd41f6d279d30be5167e22)and the same price as AttoPilot. Or you can make your own, just buy the 6 thermophiles for about hundred dollars from Digikey (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=MLX90247ESF-DSA-ND). So basically these are tied for thecheapest full XYZ sensor solution in the world.However, if people want to wait for FMA to bring the XYs back instock, people can always buy two of them and use one as a Z sensor andsave a few dollars. (just ignore one wire).
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After reading several posts from our community describing the issues involved with the ArduPilot confiq. Tool, I guess I’ve spotted (with your help) all the possible problems. Is not just one issue, is a combination between hardware, drivers, settings and software problems. You may experience more than one issue, but only one is enough to make the “Confiq. Tool” not usable.The mistake number one is not enabling the “Set RTS On Close” option located on device manager. One way to know if this option is disabled is when you are able to upload something the first time but the second time will not work!! There’s an explanation for that. This situation may confuse a lot of people, just keep it in mind because happens all the time. Detailed instructions to find this option can be located here.The second mistake is not using the correct drivers. I always install the drivers located inside the Arduino IDE folder (\\arduino-0016\drivers\FTDI USB Drivers), works great and never gave me problems.The third and fourth problem, one of them is Sparkfun mistake(I guess), I do believe this because the first company that used a separated FTDI device to program an Arduino compatible system was Adafruit Industries (Even before DIYdrones was created and Arduino PRO/mini and FTDI Breakout basic exist). They do this because is a lot cheaper to use only one FTDI system to program several Arduino compatible boards, is better than using one +-$15 chips in every board that you may burn!! (I have burned like 10 ardupilots so I have saved more than $100 bucks!).Well this is the big deal; is obvious that SparkFun tried to imitate the FTDI cable because is using exactly the same pin order and labels like “BLK” and “GRN” to indicate the polarity, but wait! There are no black and green lines in their FTDI board, only the original FTDI has the Black and Green cables! If you check the original FTDI cable schematic you will see that they are using the pin “RTS#” to reset Arduino, they have no choice; FTDI will not change this just to satisfy a small group of microcontroller amateurs.
Now Sparkfun (that came’s later) uses the pin “DTR#” instead the “RTS#”, but why? So maybe I’m wrong and they don’t tried to copy the FTDI cable (but I still not understand the wrong labels (BLK and GRN) in their arduino boards).
Anyway I did 30 seconds of research and look for the mother of all the little ducks, the original Arduino board! And I’ve discovered this:
Italians are smart! They use both pins!!! If you see the schematic they are using “DTR#” and “RTS#” connected to reset! Now, I already mention it, FTDI corp. will not change the FTDI cable but… would be nice if SparkFun adds a jumper or something to make it more “universal”. But they don’t have too and is not really necessary, because this issue can be solved by software which means a fixed version of the Confiq. Tool.Now we are imitating 100% by software what Arduino IDE does, and I’m talking about pulling down both signals: “DTR#” and “RTS#”. Thanks to Damon Pipenberg, he was able to change the code and test it in his hardware (Claps Please!). The new fixed utility can be downloaded from here and your problem should be gone. Or you can buy the heavy duty, official and original FTDI cable.Thanks for reading![UPDATE from Chris: 7/11/2009]:Nathan from Sparkfun wrote in with some more explanation, which I'll copy here:"The pro was designed very closely with the Arduino Team. From the beginning, the team wanted to support the DTR reset trick of the Arduino USB boards.Background: Two lines on the Arduino USB board are wired from FTDI to Atmega Reset: DTR and RTS. However, only one of the capacitors is populated - the DTR line. So all the Arudino software (IDE) has been written to wiggle the DTR line to get the ATmega to reset.http://arduino.cc/blog/?p=13To retroactively support this feature, and to attempt to support the (then) growing use of the FTDI cable, team Arduino decided to abandon flow control on the FTDI pinout (CTS/RTS) for the backwards compatible support of the DTR reset trick.Does all that make sense? All of this is noted in the product descriptions of the Pros:http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9220Point: We specifically designed the FTDI Basic to work with Arduino IDE out of the box. You do not have to meddle with windows to use the Arduino USB, Arduino MEGA, or Arduino Pro series. The FTDI cable is a hack. You have to change windows settings to get the FTDI cable to work with Arduino.Jordi - I am not entirely sure what problems you are still running up against. The FTDI Basic works fabulously with all the Pro hardware, and a lot of my own side projects. Do you just need to build in a DTR toggle when your config tool? This would coincide with the way the Arduino IDE resets the ATmega.One solution from the SparkFun side, may be to attach both DTR and RTS to the same pin on the connector through 100ohm resistors. That way if either line goes low, it will pull the 'reset' line low."Read more…Developer
The utility was written in Visual C#. I hope somebody familiar with C# is able to test the code in his failing setup and figure out the problem, nothing else, please don't ask me about of how integrate this code to another project because certainly I'm not an expert in C#. This code is intended for dudes that really have a basic knowledge in programming and believe can help. Just remember this code works perfectly in my PC, running Vista and using the Official FTDI cable.ArdupilotConfigTool.zipRead more…Developer
Hello everybody. I have some news here:1.-The shipping system right now is a nightmare for everybody (including me). Finally i found a good solution that will let me ship overseas for less than 5 dlls (under 4 oz). Yes i will accept First Class Mail soon, YEAHHH!!! It will be ready in two weeks.2.- The Infrared boards arrived, but i still waiting for some components in order to start the fabrication. Please be patient.3.- I ran out of ArduShield Kits!!!! Guys.. Let me breath! Tomorrow the new parts should arrive, sorry about that.Now lets talk about the new products:Ok ArduStation is now stocked, so you can order today and i will ship the same day (before 3pm California, Sun, Beach, Pacific time or 10pm Zulu time). You can buy it here.
As i already mentioned this in another post, I'm about to release the new ArduLogger in collaboration with Raúl Helvia and Eduardo Garcia (the Satellite guy) from Spain. Its an Atmega328@8Mhz and you can use it to data log the 6 analogs channels or data coming from the serial port:
(If you look carefully the picture, you will see my new Open Source ServoSwitch).And yeah! I finally entered to the gyro market. My goal is to one day offer everything you will need to build your own UAV and have an old school slogan like: "The official UAV store" or maybe "Satisfying all your UAV needs since 2009", LOL:
I'm offering right now the smallest LISY300AL breakout board. Same price as SparkFun and free shipping world wide (web?):
And for limited time i will offer the ultimate 6 degrees of freedom, super tiny IMU that can be adapted to your system very easily:
(Ardupilot just as size reference). Featuring the ADXL330 3g accelerometer and the famous LISY300AL with 300deg/sec. The best part is that you can upgrade it. You can choose between 4, 5 and 6 degrees of freedom by just soldering the gyros you need (without buffering underrun your Paypal account) and because the main board is vertical you can solder it to your current home made autopilot PCB or even in a breadboard!This pic shows with arrows the gyros you will need depending the configuration you may want:
What you will need: -ArduStation Kit -Soldering Iron: -Solder:
-Flush/diagonal cutters:
Recommended: -Low Profile Multimeter:
-Disordering Tool:
-This is what you will find inside the ArduStation components antistatic bag (LCD is included of course):
-Lets start soldering the non polarized capacitors (.1uF), when you are done place the xBee headers:
-After you placed the xBee headers, place any xBee module you have available to hold the headers in the right angle, then solder:
-Continue with the Atmega328 socket and the buzzer, watch out with the buzzer polarity!:
-Now place the protection diode (check the white strip) and the power regulator, be careful both have polarity too:
-Lets continue with the potentiometers, one is for the contrast with the number "103" or 10Kohms (UP) and the other with the long pins is for the backlight LED, with the number "502" or 5Kohms (down).
-An extra picture:
-Now solder the first 100uF polarized capacitors, check out the white strip (negative).
-Now solder the second 100uF polarized capacitors, check out the white strip (negative).
-No solder the 16Mhz Resonator (orange/brown one), is not polarized, the reset button and the power jack (easy):
Now we need to solder the LED's, but i have chosen very bright LED's in order to see something under the sun, but they are clear, so no way to see the color and one of the was inverted polarity (the long pin is the negative). A solution for that is using a the multimeter, just choose the continuity option or diode test (both will work):
This trick works great for SMD LED, for normal LED will not be so effective but it will work. Anyway just place the multimeter probes in the LED and see in with side the LED turns on and check the color also the LED side that the multimeter red probe is touching is the positive polarity of the LED. In the back of the board you can check the positive polarity of the LED holes:
-After you solder the LED's in the right way, is time to solder the funniest part, the buttons:
-Turn the board and place the Atmega328 carefully (the little half-circle divot on the chip should be on the side with the little half-circle in the socket; ignore the position of the red dot on the chip, which is not meaningful). The processors comes with bootloader pre-loaded:
-Now just solder the LCD (you can use female headers so you can remove the LCD anytime) and the FTDI port. You are ready to connect it. Note: You can't upload code when the xBee is connected.
-When you are ready, just upload the ArduStaion demo code here. It should work with ArduPilot and show you real time telemetry as indicated:
-By pressing the buttons left and right you can change the screen data.
And it has big changes, including;-The support of the protocols Sirf III, NMEA and UBX.-Separated header file to easily setup multiple airframes (instructions inside the zip files).-Compatible only with ArduShield (battery voltage, pressure sensor and GPS auto shutdown).-And many more minor fixes.The new GroundStation 2 and ArduPilot 2.2.2 can be download from here:http://code.google.com/p/ardupilot/downloads/listDon't forget to read the user manual (in beta):ArduPilot ManualRemember: Is not easy but also not impossible! Enjoy Fellas!
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