Getting the party started...

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Okay so here’s where I am at:

 

I’ve never had a helicopter apart from the mini-$50 ones you can purchase anywhere. So this will be my first helicopter/drone.

 

Short term Goals:

  • Buy Quadcopter
  • Build Quadcopter
  • Fly Quadcopter

 

 

Long term Goals:

  • Mount a GoPro HD video camera on it. (GoPro Hero 3 Black)
  • Eventually do FPV flights (either with the GoPro or by using a separate FPV cam)
  • I’d love to mission plan in the future so I do not want to limit myself early by buying parts that don’t allow me to expand. (xBee)

 

 

The proposed setup:

 

  • 3DR Arducopter Quad-C
  • APM 2.5
  • 4x jDrones AC2836-358 880 kV Motors
  • 4x 30A ESC
  • uBlox 3DR GPS LEA-6
  • 10x45 Props (to start, ideally I’ll upgrade these to CF once I learn to fly)

                          

(Purchasing from CanadaDrones.com)

  

Now… based on my short term goals. I think I’m good to go. Long term goals though, I’d love some feedback. I’m thinking if I need to lift more, I could always convert into a hex setup?

 

As far as batteries and Remote – I am undecided.

 

CanadaDrones sells the Turnighy 9X 9ch or the WFT09 remote but I’ve heard wonderful things about the Spekturm DX8.

 

I would love to hear your feedback. Thanks!

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Comments

  • Oliver, thanks.. That gives me tons of info to work with!

    Darrell, let me know if you find anything. Seems to me that this is a common issue with no manufactured solution yet.
  • Darrell: interesting. I like how those mounts work with both round or square tubes, though will they work with 3DR's Quad-C and Hexa-B frames which both use 19mm square arms? jDrone's site seems to indicate they only work for up to 15mm square arms.

    These are the vibration mounts I would recommend if using 16mm round booms.

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  • 3DR's Quad-C frame is well thought out, lightweight and the assembly is extremely well documented but that said the motors are mounted directly to the thin aluminium arms and these will bend in the most moderate crash. I find even a mild bump to the motor will cause the top part of the arm to tepee and it just sort of degrades from there. New arms from 3DR are about 10$ which and for a similar amount you could instead be buying 1.5mm thick 3K carbon fiber booms. If you look at more robust frames built for Ariel photography the motor mounts are typically attached to carbon fiber booms via "boom blocks." This is a far more robust solution, though it also weighs more and costs more initially.

    APM2.5+ with uBlox, case and power monitor/bec is a great board package. I got it before they added the case and power system and it cost about $30 more at the time too.

    30A ESCs are a great choice. They will be enough for any motors you decide to upgrade to in the future and should run cooler than the 20A ones with a nominal gain in weight. Also they are one of the easier ESC's to upgrade with SimonK's firmware, just refer to tutorials for RCTimer's 30A ESC's as they are identical.

    jDrones AC2836-358 880 kV Motors are rebranded RCTimer BC2836-9 880kv motors with bullet connectors pre soldered on. They're an alright motor and have the advantage of being very close to the default 850kv motors which APMs stock settings are configured for. If you do plan on eventually carrying a full gimbal system then I'd recommend getting something like the Sunnysky 2814-11 700kv or more expensive Avroto's or T-Motors. A lot of pro packages seem to be switching to newer disk type motors but I'm still sceptical.

    The Turnigy Nano-Tech 5000mAh 3S1P 35C~70C recommended by Richard are excellent batteries. You would be fine flying with just one, again, unless you start carrying a gimbal system, then you would want two. Personally prefer XT60 connectors than the 4mm HXT bullet connectors they comes with though I stick with Deans on ESCs  and the power supply board.

    I haven't flown a 3DR Quad-C myself, but it should not have any problem at all flying a GoPro with a simple tilt mount, a ~400mw 5.8Ghz transmitter and a minimOSD board. That stuff is quite light. I would also recommend adding a separate small battery for your FPV system once you get there.

    I do prefer the way you access the internal electronics on the Hexa-B frame via 4 thumb screws, but otherwise I think the Hexa is a bit over specced. IMHO the frame isn't robust or expandable enough to warrant the extra power and if you're new to this stuff it gives you two more props to break while you learn.

    By far the most robust, modular and cost effect frame I'm aware of at the moment is Rusty's UAP-1 with 16mm booms from flycarbon. SIXCopter from Quadframe is a close second, but tight integration with Rusty's latest UG-1 gimbal system pushes the UAP-1 well into the lead. There's nothing wrong with learning on a Quad-C, but once it's all bent to hell and you're looking for something more robust, definitely check those out; for not too much more they are a couple leagues above both 3DRs frames (again, IMHO). The drawback is mostly weight. Lighter weight means longer flight times and 3DR's are about as light as you get.

    You didn't mention a PDB (power distribution board). I quite like 3DRs.

    Transmitter: Turnigy 9XR + Frysky DJT Combo (or this one if you want to use Frysky's telemetry system opposed to minimOSD, or if you want PPM / RSSI). This combo will demolish any option within tripple of it's price range. Make sure to also pickup a USBasp programmer so you can update the 9XR with the latest version of er9x. The version it ships with is an old version HobbyKing rebranded. Check 9xforums wiki for loads of info on how to do this.

    Carbon fiber props will take a finger off no problem ;)

    sim-/tgy
    tgy -- Open Source Firmware for ATmega-based Brushless ESCs - sim-/tgy
  • T3
    I fly only 1 at a time. With my loaded Hex I get about 11 or 12 minutes of flight.
  • Wow guys ... I never expected to get so much information back so quickly. Thanks!

    Phil: Yes the uBlox seems to be the choice of many right now. I'm not all that read up on the specs but I hear its the one to have.

    Richard: Thanks for the battery info. I'll definitely have to keep that in mind. Do you run just one battery or more?

    Jason: I'm not sure if I need a Hexa... I'm just saying that if I can't do everything on my long term list with a Quad then I'll go Hexa. What do you figure? Can my long term goals be accomplished by a Quad or should I just go straight to a Hexa?

    Neil: Thanks for the in-depth info on the remotes. I certainly need to do some more research on this topic before I buy so I really appreciate the info you've supplied. I'm prepared to spend the bucks on the remote as no matter what the variation of drone I fly, the remote needs to support it...I take it you'd recommend a Spektrum over the others (based on your experience of course)?

    Question now: So will the above configured Quad handle the GoPro, FPV cams and some type of telemetry? Or should I go straight to a Hexa for the extra lift? 

  • The ublox is the current recommended choice of most of the people on this forum, I just bought one myself. (Have not installed yet.)

    On the subjects of remotes:

    Remotes are something you don't want to buy twice so take some time and buy something good.

    Get at least 7 channels and for the drones you may (will) want more 8+ once you start FPVing.

    These remotes will give you up to about 1 mile in range but could be signification less depending on 2.4 Ghz spectrum use in your flying area.

    A decent remote will cost around the range of 250-500$ with the higher end starting around 800$.

    I would say most people fly mid end remotes, with low end being the next most common. I see very few people with high end remotes. (Other than those who are bleeding money or fly large RC aircraft.).

    You cant go wrong with JR or Futaba both make great transmitters and receivers.

    Spektrum make great remotes that are compatible with a wide range of blade micro (and not so micro) helicopters and quads. You can then use one of their full range receivers for your quad or hex (or oct) as well.

    I have a 12 year old JR 8103 with a spektrum module and so far this has been a great solution for me.

    The Turnigy seems to be solid remote as well, but I have not seen one so I cannot say on the quality end.

    Cheers, I hope you enjoy the hobby!

  • Jason,

    Yeah, reading is pretty much all I've been doing for the past 3 or so weeks!  Thanks for the info!

  • Gentlemen, having dealt with being new just like yourselves (in fact a bit newer as I had never flown ANYTHING before).

    I can recommend a few things.Your setups sound great, but if a price point matters and you know you will eventually increase in size for capability, I would  start out right off with the HEXA. I jumped in feet first on a hexa, my build experience was very frustrating and the company I purchased from was ideally the wrong choice for me here in the US. I can tell you however that Danny at Canada Drones is an excellent choice *A#1 Support!  and the products you chose as well.

    Personally I have not had good experience with Jdrones motors and ESC's though I think they have since revamped their models to a more robust build. Since I had so many problems with the hexa, I actually turned it into a quad, to take a step back and redo everything which also helped me to learn more. To me (it may be diff for others of course) it was a good choice to have something smaller to start with and then work my way up to the original intention. There are some tricks that are needed to do to make your hexa a quad first, but once understood, not difficult at all, again, you learn the best by the best mistakes!

    And so you know, it is easier to go from hex to quad and back again, than to try and make a quad a hex... the frame may not work as hoped and then there is the problem of your Power Distribution board.

    Lots of support around from other users on the Turnigy... wish I had gone that route instead of Futaba... and the new ublox GPS is the best choice so far. Any questions feel free to friend me and send messages... good luck and read read read!

  • T3

    For Batteries I use Turnigy Nano-Tech 5000mAh 3S1P 35C~70C you can get them at Hobby King for about $41 US.  Excellent all around battery.  Don't buy cheap batteries, you will regret it.  Make sure you buy 3S or 4S and at least 30C.  3S and 4S are the number of cells and 30C is the capacity or load the battery can handle.  Don't buy less then 30C, you don't want to run out of load when flying and if you upgrade your Quad you can still use the 30C batteries.

    I also use the Spekturm DX8 and I really like it.  I fly a Quad, Hex and Powered Sail plane with it.  It has some great features and I love the support from the company.  It cost a bit more, but again it's worth it. 

  • I'm in a similar position to you, and in the same process of deciding what I need to get going.  I think I'll go straight for the same set up as you've outlined but as a Hexcopter from the get go.

    I'm looking for high accuracy components - is the ublox GPS the better module to go for?

    Seems that supplies are bit short in the UK for most of these parts though.

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