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Leading up to the 10th anniversary of my robotics blog, GoRobotics.net, I'm doing a series of robot prize giveaways. This month's giveaway features $250 worth of prizes from our sponsors Pololu,Super Droid Robots, Zagros Robotics, Solarbotics and No Starch Press.

1st Place Prize – Orangutan B-328 Robot Controller (donated by Pololu), 2x 24V 195 RPM Gear Motors (donated by Super Droid Robots), and The LEGO MINDSTORMS NXT Idea Book (donated by No Starch Press) – worth $100

2nd Place Prize – Arduino Duemilanove, Tamiya Gear Box and Sport Tires (donated byZagros Robotics), and The Unofficial LEGO MINDSTORMS NXT Inventor’s Guide (donated by No Starch Press) - worth $75

3rd Place Prize – Herbie the Mousebot Kit (donated by Solarbotics), and LEGO MINDSTORMS NXT Thinking Robots (donated by No Starch Press) – worth $75

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BaroneOSD is a PAL video overlay impression WITHOUT additional hardware required (NO LM1881 Sync generator).

Use only 3 pin:

D1 (USART TX) used to pump pixel in the video connected with a 330Ohm resistor to D6

D6 (AIN0) Video in/out, connect here you camera or radio TX.

D7 (AIN1) 0.3V Voltage reference (you can use a partitor resistor)


http://www.elenafrancesco.org/arduino/



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In order to properly size displays for the ArduPilot GCS it would help to know what screen resolution everyone uses - in the field on their GCS computer (laptop)

640x480
800x600
854x480
960x1200
1024x640
1024x768
1152x864
1280x720
1280x768
1280x800
1280x960
1280x1024
1360x768
1366x768
1400x1050
1440x900
1600x900
1600x1000
1600x1024
1600x1200
1600x1280
1680x1050
1792x1344
1856x1392
1920x1080
1920x1200
1920x1440
1920x2400
2048x1280
2048x1536
2560x1600
2560x2048
3840x2400

Other ( if so what?)
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3D Robotics

Jason Short and I had great day of testing and improving code (and putting in a pretty good T3 contest time!). Once again we were at the RC club in Point Richmond, across the Bay from San Francisco. Jason was just back from a skiing vacation where he tangled with another snowboard to the tune of 17 stitches on his ankle (I saw them: ouch) but fortunately UAV development doesn't require a lot of running.


You can see what flight testing looks like above. I fly, he watches the telemetry and then makes changes in the code for me to test.


Here's the rundown of the day's progress. You should see all this reflected in the code in the repository in a day or so:


The Good:


--Navigation is now locked in pretty well. Straight lines to waypoints (no more snaking) and pretty tight turns between them.


--Manual throttle control now works in autopilot mode! Just like you can "nudge" the plane's direction with RC controls while it's flying autonomously, you can now speed it up or down. Excellent for finding the best speed for T3 runs!


--The funky thing with one of my Futaba FASST receivers working and the other not was solved. Turns out that one of them outputs the PWM on all channels in serial, and the other in parallel. Who knew? Anyway, ArduPilot can handle either. If your radio does something weird like only letting you fly left, not right, edit this line in the config file:


//3-2

#define RADIO_TYPE 0 // 0 = sequential PWM pulses(Fasst, Spektrums), 1 = simultaneous PWM pulses (Corona RP8D1)


--We flew the FunJet in RC mode (although it has an ArduPilot, we haven't set up elevon mixing yet). Amazing performance: fast, rock solid and incredibly maneuverable. Once we get it dialed in with the AP, we're going to be looking at sub 10 second Sparkfun runs ;-)



The Bad:


--We still don't have altitude hold working right. We finally got it to display the right altitude in the ground station, but for some reason it's not holding. Jason thinks this is just a matter of tweaking throttle and pitch gains, but for now I had to trim the pitch down manually for the T3 trial runs just to ensure the plane didn't get too high during the autonomous portion.


--We're getting different results with different sensors. I'm flying with FMA sensors, and Jason was flying with DIY Drones sensors. The calibration routines should mean that as long as you've got a matched pair it shouldn't matter where they come from. But for some reason it still does, and different sources require different gains in the code. We'll figure out a way to make that go away...


The Stupid:


--I almost crashed one time by launching with stabilization accidentally on, but not yet calibrated (it takes a few second to calibrate in the air). Also we found that if you happen to power on in stabilization mode, it messes up your waypoint settings (for some reason it thought it was starting on waypoint 7), so for now just don't do it until we can find and fix that bug.


--I also almost crashed launching downwind. In my defense, the wind shifted direction. But still!


--I nuked another Xbee by powering on with the signal line attached. I can rescue it, of course, but I CAN'T WAIT for ArduPilot Mega to make this problem go away with the dedicated serial lines.

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Variable Pitch Quad Rotor - M/UAV

Variable Pitch Quad Rotor - M/UAV

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DIY project ranging from a 600cc 120HP etec Ski-Doo engine, UltraSport 254 tail rotors, extruded aluminum blades from Vortech, aluminum / steel tube structural components, and a carbon fiber reinforced polymer monocoque frame.

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3D Robotics

Tutorial: Programming your uBlox GPS module

Although you can buy the uBlox modules pre-programmed from the DIY Drones store, you may want to do it yourself, either because you want to update the firmware or change some settings, or because you've bought the module from Sparkfun because we were out of stock and you need to set it up to use with ArduPilot.

Here's a simple tutorial on how to program your module (it replaces this older tutorial):

First, you'll need the DIY Drones adapter if you don't already have it.

You can use our GPS-to-FTDI cable to connect this directly to your PC, or make your own.

If you're going make your own, solder a four pin header on the pins below the GPS connector on the adapter, as shown above. Now connect it to your FTDI cable, with the pin mappings shown above. I use jumper cables and a six-pin breakaway header for this, as shown below, but you can use any method you want, including making a custom cable, which is the neatest method if you plan to do this more than once:

Jumper wires connected to six-pin header:


Header plugged into FTDI cable:


Once you've made the physical connections, download and install the U-center software from uBlox. (It doesn't work on Windows 7, so if that's what you're using, open a virtual Windows XP mode window to run the software in. You'll also need to "attach" the FTDI USB serial ports, which you should be pretty familiar with if you use virtual XP mode).

Now run the U-center software, selecting the Com port that your FTDI cable is attached to. You also need to tell it what baud rate the GPS module is running at. If you got it from the DIY Drones store, it's 38,400. If you got it from Sparkfun, it's probably 9,600:


You can tell if it's working by going to View/Binary Console. You should see the data flowing through. Also, the icons circled below should be green or flashing green (it's not showing a sat lock because I'm indoors):


If it's not working, check these things:

1) Did you wire it up right?
2) Did you select the right Com port?
3) Did you select the right baud speed?

If you want to update the firmware, you can get the latest uBlox firmware here. Use the one for the "LEA-5H" modules.

To flash the new firmware go to Tools/Firmware update. Make sure the firmware image points to the file you downloaded and unzipped.


To configure a module to use with ArduPilot, download this file.

Go to Tools/GPS configuration, and select the file you just downloaded. Check the "Store configuration..." box and click on "File >>> GPS".



If you were communicating with the module at any speed other than 38,400, you'll find that the configuration process will fail midway through. That's because it's just gotten to the bit that changes the communications speed to 38,400. Set your u-center com speed to 38,400 and run it again. It should work this time.

When you're done, go to Receiver>> Action>> then click Save Config. Otherwise, every time you unplug your gps, it will revert back to the original configuration.
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3D Robotics

Latest research on optical flow

I've been fascinated by optical flow ever since I learned that you can do some pretty good navigation work with the chip taken from an old optical mouse. I think this is probably going to be one of the methods we use to take Blimpduino navigation to the next level (it's ideal for any unknown environment, as well as GPS-denied ones). As the picture above suggests, optical flow is the method that many animals, especially insects, use to navigate in complex space.


Here's a writeup from Hizook about the latest research in the field. The authors describe the advantages of this technique:


"The main benefit of this method is that the information about the optics and scene depth is wrapped into a model that is easily learned from video from the robot. No calibration grids or complicated lens distortion models are required! The primary limitation from a practical standpoint is the assumption of constant scene depth, which would break down if, for example, the robot turned to directly face a very close wall, departed from the ground plane, or moved from a narrow corridor into a large open area. "


Here's a video that shows how it works:


CVPR 2009 from Richard Roberts on Vimeo.


[Fly image at the top from the Max Planck Society]

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3D Robotics

Last weekend for your T3 entries!

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Entries for the current T3 contest (virtual Sparkfun competition) are due by midnight PST on Sunday, so this is your last weekend to get a flight in. The current leading time is 25.7 seconds by Brian Wolfe. Here's his track:



Jason Short and I will be flying the pattern tomorrow as we test some new code. We're just using beater EasyStars, so we won't win, but the point is just to enter. Get out there and try the course--it's the easiest one we've done!



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Moderator

The BIG Skywalker FPV UAV platform


Skywalker is now in a new version made of EPO foam. Much stronger foam.

Length: 1180mm
Wingspan: 1680mm
Wing Area¡G35.5dm2
Wing Loading¡G36.6

Recommendation
4 x 9g Servo
3S1P 11.1V 2200mAH-5000mAH
Motor: 2215-1200KV or 2815-900KV
Propeller: APC-9045E 9060E

I think this platform could be the replacement for the smaller Easystar if it's possible. What do you think?

Skywalker is now in stock! This is not the EPS foam, this is the new EPO version - much stronger foam.

wing.jpg

See more on this Skywalker FPV UAV platform.

skywalker.jpg

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3D Robotics

RC helicopters collecting whale snot

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We're always looking for practical applications of what we do. Here's one from from Makezine:

"As you folks know--all too well, I'm sure--it is extremely difficult to collect blood from a wild whale without injuring or killing it in the process. However, and as even a child can tell you, the next best thing to live whale blood is live whale snot. Turns out it spews from their blowholes when they exhale, so the process is really very simple:

  1. Find whale.
  2. Hold petri dish over blowhole to intercept spout.
  3. Return to lab, enjoy sample.

Step 2 is actually the hard part. And although your first instinct may be to just jump in your rowboat, paddle out to a whale pod, lean way out over the side with your sample container, and wait, that's actually not as safe as it might sound. Each year, untold millions of scientists die attempting this maneuver. Their sun-bleached bones litter beaches all along the Pacific coast.

Enter Dr. Karina Acevedo-Whitehouse, of the Zoological Society of London. Her recent paper in Animal Conservation(abstract), irresistibly entitled "A novel non-invasive tool for disease surveillance of free-ranging whales and its relevance to conservation programs," introduces the ground-breaking methodology of strapping a petri dish to a toy RC helicopter and flying it into the spout. This landmark work stands not only to revolutionize our understanding of whale disease, but to save countless lives, and establishes Dr. Acevedo-Whitehouse as a serious contender for this year's (Ig) Nobel "Prize."

[via The Thoughtful Animal]

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NOISE NOISE NOISE

Marcy 1's flight time is horrible with POV. It's declined from 10 to 6 minutes.

She's got radio lockups with the chip radios. That's coming down to a hardware state which can't be corrected by resetting the hardware. Connecting reset to Vdd reduces the lockups but adds a huge amount of noise to the thermopile readout. The logic pins on the MRF49XA put a huge amount of noise into your power supply.

The thermopile is down to power line noise. This isn't a problem when they're used in pairs because the noise cancels out on each thermopile. A single high gain therompile on Marcy 1 is like mounting a telescope on a piston engine.

Run it on its own battery & you get an extremely clean signal with body heat sensitivity. On the main battery, it's noise. The only filter that works is a huge capacitor, resistor & inductor. The Vdd wire has to be separated from the output wire. A capacitor or inductor alone doesn't work.







Got it really quiet, but when the motor came on it was noise again.



Next came a coin cell with a MOSFET to switch it off when the main battery was disconnected. That got super quiet without inductors, but as soon as the motor started it was all over.



Managed to get it a little quieter by separating it from the motor. The thermopile pulled the coin cell down to 2.8V. The MOSFET leaked too much current in the off state. The coin cell + holder was heavier than an inductor.

The next step is using the highpass filter with a pair, but since Marcy 1 has no symmetric mounting point, 1 pile would be a noise reference pointing at the ground or something.



Well, we did manage to get a hello out of Major Marcy in real life. Not much, but with so many men hounding Her there wasn't much dialog to be had. Was not comfortable mentioning our hobby around Her & Her lover said She worked WITH the Air Force. He may not have known Her as well as us or She may not have revealed Her warriorness.




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New on DIY Drones

Hi,
Congratulations for your community!
I am new here. Let me introduce myself. I am from Brazil, i live in Rio de Janeiro and I study Computer Engineering.
I am interested in IMU, sensors, GPS and all about UAV.
I am studying Premerlani UAV Dev. Board, all the material and the DCM Theory. I expect that soon I will be able to contruibute to the development of this great project!




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Developer


No ground crew today. Down view camera was installed.
Front camera view of todays flight testing of PID settings for throttle cruise 80 & throttle max 120, pitch compensation .30 Test battery a 2250mAh 3s lipo had 1 cell going bad,

I replaced battery and retested, but crashed flat and hard when I panicked and set Mode to FBW instead of Manual..
Systems damage report:
Power train,
APC 7x4 EP prop broken off both sides, replace with APC Gas 7x3 $1.95
Motor mount ripped off, $2 flexable superglue and carbon fiber, New mount for contest $5
2250 mAh test battery has one bad cell now, $60 new 4s 2650mAh 40c for contest

Structural,
starboard side,
Tears in foam on both sides of vertical fin up to spars, $1 Liquid Nails or lo temp hot glue.
New foam body $21 for contest.
Control horn ripped off, but still on wire z bend, $0.50 superglue and add some carbon fiber.
Stripped servo plastic gears, replace set $2.49
All other electronics are fine.

Made several test flights, my observations:
1. Don't flight test with a weak or old battery
2. make smaller PID p changes, over correcting in pitch and over powered throttle in FBW mode
3. Start FWB mode at about 150' when testing throttle or pitch PID changes, 50' higher than normal
4. Train left hand Learn to use Mode switch when panic ensues, place in Manual vs FBW and relax
5. Don't ground test with a weak or old battery
6. Flying in snow is fun!
7. Don't panic!
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