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In the video, you can 'see the show that I made at the Teatro Donizetti in Bergamo. I used Fox Drone my own implementation of AR.Drone to which I added a ground station that allows the management of the aircraft through the PS3 gamepad and transmitting video on Video Wall for live performances.
In the show you see that Logan is the Magician 'conjure FoxDrone and explains it to the public.
The presentation explains how the use of drones you can create spectacular video applications for tourism promotion.


This is the promotional video of the province of Bergamo, made by : drones, helicopters and computer graphics ... come to visit Bergamo from all over the world ... come people will look at us:)

website : http://www.turismo.bergamo.it

Happy Chrismas by Virtual Robotix and FoxTeam

Original Blog Post : http://www.virtualrobotix.com/profiles/blogs/fox-drone-magic-show

Roberto Navoni

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3D Robotics

Laser cut your own ArduCopter parts

3689382839?profile=originalDue to the usual string of code bugs and dumb thumbs, I've dinged my ArduCopter up a good bit in the testing phase. You can get a good crash repair kit from FahPah that has the most commonly-broken parts, or you can make your own. Thanks to Sandro Benigno, at least some of them (the easy-to-crack dome headers) are now very easy: just have them laser cut at Ponoko.

Just click here and add it to your personal factory. Then when you go to have it made, select the following (you'll get four pairs, which is all you'll need for life!):

Acrylic - Clear

3.0 mm
P1 - 181.0 mm long x 181.0 mm wide
Making: $15.10
Material: $2.00
Total: $17.10 <--- (4 pairs + 1 upper)
Here's my stack, which just arrived. They fit great!
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Ardu-Zagi

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I've finally spent a bit of time to setup the Arudipilot which I bought back at the start of the year into an aircraft.  This is an EPP Zagi airframe which was surplus to other requirements here (left over from an undergrad project I think).

 

I've integrated all the hardware and am currently in the process of setting up the software.  I seem to be having problem with intermittent resets at the moment - not sure if that's power related or something else.

 

It doesn't have a motor or ESC yet - I may even fly it off slope before putting a motor on.

 

>
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Quadcopter V4.0

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Well after the near great success of our 3rd year university, self made quadcopter based on the Adrucopter design, it is now time to start thinking about our 4th year university project!!

 

We were recently given our high level objectives for our newest endeavor. To make a simple quad system architecture (one quad and one computer) and implement this system to perform practical maneuvers (object tracking/following, sense and avoid, etc) with multiple quads (at least 2, possibly more).

 

The project will be completed by 4 Queensland University of Technology Students finishing up their BA of Eng in Aerospace Avionics. We'll be working closely with ARCAA (Australian Research Centre for Aerospace Automation) and utilizing a lot of their facilities for the project.

 

The boys are excited about this project and we're (possibly a little over) confident that we're going to see some fantastic results.

 

We intend to keep you guys out there in DIY Drones Land updated on our progress and possible source inspiration and guidance.

 

Keep on drone-ing!!

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3D Robotics

DIY Drones Moderator Guidelines

3689382821?profile=originalThese are the guidelines for DIY Drone's moderators, of which there are currently about 30, although we add them all the time (PM me if you'd like to be one). I'm posting them publicly because they also include some tips for posters, especially on what should be a blog post vs. a discussion topic and how to make blog posts effective and good-looking.

 

FAQ:

How to become a moderator? The best way is to just spend time on the site as a positive member of the community, both contributing your own ideas and helping others. Eventually I or one of the other admins will notice (we watch the leaderboards, too, although that reflects a lot of things beyond simple participation) and we'll invite you to become a moderator. People can also put up their hand and volunteer, at which point we can review their history and approve. If you accept, we'll upgrade your permissions on the site so you can do the following:

 

What do moderators do? They can approve/reject new member applications, approve/reject/edit blog posts, add/change tags, delete content that violates our site guidelines and ban spammers.

 

When should a moderator reject a membership request? Typically this is only done when there are pretty clear signs of a spammer. The most obvious is an off-topic subject in the description and link to an off-topic site. (ie, "I sell insurance and love meeting new people! Here's a link to our insurance site"). Also, if the submission has no information (or just random characters) in the required field, that can be seen as a warning sign and justification for rejecting the request.

 

How to moderate a blog post?

First, ensure that it's appropriate. Blog posts should be informational, and of broad interest to the community. Questions or tech support requests should be posted in the Discussion Forum instead. If someone has posted something as a blog post that should have been in the Forum, copy it and paste it into a Friend Request to the person, asking them to repost in the correct area.

Second, ensure that the post is the correct form. It should have a clear title and begin with an image or video. The image should be set to 500 pixels wide, full width. Often people will include an image or video, but not at the top of the post. If that's the case, feel free to move it to the top of their post before publishing it. This will ensure that the image shows up on the front page of the site and  will encourage more people to click through (you're doing the poster a favor!).

Videos should be embedded (not just links to YouTube, forcing people to leave the site to watch). If the user is having trouble embedding video, make sure they're not using the iFrame mode in YouTube. That doesn't work with Ning. [Update: Ning can now support all YouTube embed codes.]

 

Also, if it's a Vimeo video, they have to use the "old embed code" to work with Ning: [Likewise, all embed codes are now supported]

 

Common errors include copy-and-paste formatting garbage in front of the image that prevents it from showing up on the front page of the site. If you see this, switch into HTML mode and delete this before publishing. You may also see crazy formatting issues, like huge spaces between paragraphs and funky type sizes. This is almost always due to posts being copy-and-pasted from other sites. Try to clean them up a bit before publishing.

 

When should a moderator ban someone? This is most often done for spamming (clearly off topic posts with links to off-topic sites). Ban on first offense--no second chances. For cases where you think a user is violating our site polices regarding personal attacks or otherwise behaving uncivilly, you should privately warn them via a PM and tell them that they can be banned if this behavior continues. Let me know if this doesn't solve the problem.

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Evolving aircraft control values using a genetic algorithm

I've been doing some experiments to evolve PID control values in X-plane using a genetic algorithm, with some success. I posted a description about the experiment on my blog. I didn't want to reproduce the entire post here, but thought I would link it and post a video of the experiment:

Blog post:

http://www.1011ltd.com/web/blog/post/evolving_pid


Enjoy!

Benjamin

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Make your own plastic mini lens

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One of my side projects has been to develop an open-source visual motion / optical flow sensor that may be usable in all sorts of devices, whether robotic related or not. I've found though that one of the most difficult parts of developing tiny vision sensors is finding the right optics. Ideally we want something that is cheap, easy to mount, has a decent field of view, and yet creates a reasonable image. For higher resolution images (hundreds of pixels across or more) and image sensors four or more millimeters wide, there are many excellent lens assemblies available from companies like Sunex. (We've used and still use their products in higher resolution sensor designs, always with success.) However there is really nothing available for image sensors a millimeter wide. Printed pinholes do work, but don't let through as much light. This post highlights a little project to design a decent lens for the Faraya64 image sensor, whose focal plane measures about 1.1mm across.

 

The basic concept (shown below) is to make a simple "plano convex" lens, with the curved surface (e.g. "bump") facing outward and the flat section resting on an image sensor. I decided on acrylic as an optical material, since it is light, easily formed, and for our purposes is as good as glass. An opaque "stop", perhaps made of paint or a piece of black plastic, would fit over over the lens and allow light to reach the image sensor through only the center of the front bump.

 

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For the front surface I decided to use a spherical shape- this is a pretty traditional shape for 99% of all lenses out there. I used the ray tracing and optimizing capabilities of Zemax, a commercial optics design software package, to find an optimal shape. I found that to provide the 1.1mm image sensor chip with a 60 degree field of view, the dimensions shown above were optimal: The front bump would be a sphere with a radius of 0.61mm, while the total thickness would be 1.6mm. I also allowed the optimizer to try aspherical conic shapes (e.g. parabolas, hyberbolas, ellipses) but found that I did not gain much performance over that of a sphere and so decided to keep it simple.

 

The two figures below show two plots generated by Zemax. First is the lens layout, showing the 0, 10, 20, and 30 degree off-axis rays. Second is the spot diagram showing how the image would be blurred from ideal, for red, green, and blue rays! The pitch between pixels on the Faraya64 image sensor is about 17.1 microns, so the RMS blurring shown here was not quite optimal but was good enough for me to go on.

3689382766?profile=original3689382805?profile=original

 

I decided next to first try forming a lens by hand by stamping it. This technique won't match the precision from the Zemax simualtion, but I thought it would be fun. Using Alibre, I designed a simple stamp that would produce a lens of the above shape. I had this stamp CNC machined from aluminum by the company FirstCut.

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The stamp came back, but it needed more finishing. Basically the part of the mold that forms the spherical lens bump needed to be polished to "optical quality". I didn't really know what I was doing, but I did manage to find a way to polish this area! I used a Dremel tool, a toothpick, and some polish (Simichrome Polish by Gesswein), put a dab of polish in the hold, and used the Dremel tool to spin the toothpick. After about 5-10 minutes of spinning and moving the toothpick around, I managed to get the spherical surface polished to a decent quality, as shown below. I also cut channels to let the plastic escape as the stamp was being pressed down. The result is shown below.

 

3689382861?profile=originalNow comes the fun part- the pressing! I don't have any photos from this step, but I'll try to describe the technique that worked best. I placed a pyrex dish on a hot plate, and set the heat to low-medium. After a few minutes I then placed a piece of aluminum foil on the hot plate, and a tiny piece of acrylic onto the aluminum foil. A few minutes later the acrylic piece got soft, and I pressed down onto it with the stamp. I lifted the stamp out, and the pressed acrylic piece (and the aluminum foil) came up with it. The picture below shows the business end of the stamp, the pressed piece of acrylic, and a U.S. Quarter for size comparison. If you look carefully, you can see the spherical bump in the middle of the piece of acrylic. You can also see extra plastic around the outer side of the lens- I cut that away with a utility knife.

 

3689382796?profile=originalI'd say that about 40% of the lenses I pressed turned out OK. Below and at the very top of this post are front and back pictures of some of the final lenses produced.


3689382882?profile=originalThe next step is to mount the lens on a chip. Basically I used a UV curable optical adhesive (Norland 63) to glue the lens directly onto the chip. Then I used black modeling paint to form the "opaque enclosure". Finally I added more optical adhesive to encapsulate everything (except for the lens bump). The result is shown below- you'll see the lens mounted onto a Firefly chip (similar to the Faraya) and that mounted on a small 9mm x 9mm PCB. If you look closely you can also see the wire bonds that connect the chip to the PCB.

 

3689382917?profile=originalHow was the image quality? Actually much better than I expected, especially since the flat side of the lens was not perfect. The optical adhesive's index of refraction is similar to that of acrylic, so I think together they helped smooth out some of the imperfections. Below is a screen shot- the quality is certainly good enough for 32x32 images, and I think with refining can be further improved.

 

3689382925?profile=originalSo now the final step is to automate this process. Rather than press molding by hand, injection molding is the way to go for quantity. Below is a family mold with four slightly different variations of the same lens. This is currently being fabricated by Protomold. I should get parts back in the second week of January. I'll report back on this in a few weeks!

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ArduCopter Frame Mod with Detachable Arms

3689382379?profile=originalI ride a motorcycle and the assembled quad just won't fit on the bike.  I have made a few modifications to the Arducopter kit as manufactured by Jani @ Fah Pah.  My mod makes the arms easily detachable with a few more parts. You'll need:

- eight 1/4" spacers (I bought at the local hardware store)

- four bolts similar to the 20mm in the kit

- four wing-nuts or threated spacers that you can grip (for the four bolts above so you can finger tighten them)

 

With the current kit design, the Arms are secured by a two guide bolts at the front to prevent lateral movement, and single metal bolt tying the end of the arm at the center of the Main Frame. But because this bolt attaches to a threaded spacer, and onto the battery holder, it is not easily removed.

 

My Solution: Add a finger-accessible bolt closer to the outside and a pin at the interior.

 

First, with the Arms mounted normally, mark the Arms at the existing frame hole. This is the only hole that is on top of an Arm. Mark all four arms.

 

Create the Pin:  With the Arm removed I added a 1/4"spacer to the existing Arm-to-Battery-mount bolt and tightened. The spacer become the pin and insures the Arm will still fit snugly between the Main Frame boards.  I also added a 1/4"spacer to one of the two front posts and tightened. This keeps top-to-bottom tight, and also pinches a little on the Arm when inserted. i found two spacers (a left and right) to be too tight.  This picture shows the 2 new spacers: On eonteh Battery mount, one at the outside left plastic bolt. You can also see the retaining bolt in its new location (the bright silver bolt) 3689382596?profile=original

 

 

Next I measured, centered and slotted the end of the Arms with a dremel to match the thickness of the battery-mount-bolt spacer. I then drilled a hole in the Arm where I marked the outside frame hole. Repeat for all four Arms. 3689382667?profile=original

 

Now you can mate the slotted Arms to the main frame

 

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Secure with a new bolt and threaded spacer or wingnut/etc. You'll still need to secure the acrylic GPS/Top ring in the standard fashion.

 

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I mounted my ESCs on the Arms to simplify the leads - 1 power and 1 servo cable on each and I'm good to go.  Because the ESC is on the Arm, the extra cabling length can be tucked into the Arm's precut slot and tie-wrapped securely.

 

Now I can dis- and re-assemble the Arducopter in about 5 minutes and hit the road.

 

Paul

 

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Custom quadcopter

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Spent the last number of months building  a quadcopter.  I though I should share the results. Great fun with a number of crashes, broken props and motors. The bottom link is a 4 minute youtube flight video.

You'll notice in the video, the first half the motors are red, but later on they're blue. In one test flight,

we lost power to one motor, the quad flipped over and did a power dive into the ground. That took out a pair of motors and props.



 

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Top view of power board.  The top lead I use as a motor power switch. The four sets of connectors around the board

connect to the ESCs. The two leads on the left are for battery power.

 

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Bottom view power board.

 

YouTube test flight.

     quadcopter flights

 

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3D Robotics

DIY Drones visits Willow Garage

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Yesterday some of the DIY Drones team spent the afternoon at Willow garage.  Here Guillermo Romero (who is setting up the Tijuana operation of Udrones, a 3D Robotics partner, and Jordi Munoz with the Willow Garage PR2 that's been travelling the halls of the company for more than 100km (it plugs itself into a charger every two hours, which is what it's doing here).

 

What were we doing there? Well, mostly just geeking out with the engineers there, but there is an interesting project to link Arduino with the Willow Garage Robot Operating Systems (ROS), for swarm coordination. Or, as I hinted on Twitter:

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Hello and a Christmas/New Years video

Hi all. Several of us working on the ETH Flying Machine Arena have been watching DIY Drones for a while but we've never really participated in any way. Since our work is somewhat related and might be of interest, we thought we'd post something:

 

So, it's been a busy year. Many new little quads as well as people joining our team. Many projects, many crashes, many improvements, probably as many new bugs :-) I'd love to give you statistics on flight hours, distance, etc, but we don't keep track of it. Like Drew Carey said on Whose Line, "the points don't matter". :-) (*whoosh* goes the reference)

 

For Christmas/New Years we decided to do something fun -- take a random absurd idea and see if we can make it fly -- something that people would look at and wonder "why???"... here's our shot (don't miss the ending! :-) ).

This was done on a late Friday night in about 3 hours from placing a piano in the Arena to the final shot... it's *not* a serious research project :-) (at least not yet!!). As it turns out, the keys are quite bouncy, and the quadrotor is quite light, so it was difficult to get it to hold the keys -- this is the main reason for the slowed down tempo.

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3D Robotics

ArduCopter NG taken over by Pirates!

3689382517?profile=originalJust a quick announcement that the ArduCopter project has been boarded by (friendly) pirates! The "ArduPirates" refers to a great group of quad hackers over on RC Groups who have been making many useful additions and fixes to official ArduCopter code. Now that the ArduCopter team has released the "NG" branch as ArduCopter RC2 and is moving on to the next version (code named ArduCopter Mega, or ACM) that's built on the mature ArduPilot Mega codebase, we've asked the ArduPirates to take over further development of NG. They've already made great leaps, and you can expect lot of energy and innovation there.

 

As ArduPirates NG versions are tested and documented, we'll release them as official ArduCopter releases as zip files on the official site.

 

So going forward, once ACM is released, there will be two well-maintained codebases to chose from. They'll share the same core libraries, so you can be confident in core functionality. But they have different "flavors" and styles, and hopefully lead to healthy cross-fertilization.

 

Please see this post by Norbert Machinek (Captain of the Pirates) for more details.

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Smithsonian Acquires Model Airplane

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I thought this article might be of interest to this community.  It starts:

"In September 2010 the Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC vetted the TransAtlantic Model (TAM) and selected it as an historic artifact..."

The short article (letter, actually, from Maynard Hill) can be found HERE.

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Distributor

Xbee 868 revived?

 

xbee868.bmp

 

******************************************************

Update Aug 2011:

 

After a great deal of tests, this option for telemetry did not work for our us, I now have a working telemerty kit option which can be seen here, and you can buy the Telemetry kit from www.buildyourowndrone.co.uk

 

*********************************************************

 

The Xbee 868 how ever an older module it still has a great deal to offer and as some of you might remember this post as the original fix there has been a lot of other fixes that came to light hardware (Quick_and_Dirty) and software thanks to James and Noth666 but in A recent post of mine, we discussed the options for the UK and I came upon a new fix that seems simple yet effective enough to get the advantage of the offered 40km range as stated Here.

 

What you must do is reset your Xbee through the UART, modify the telemetry output to stop for a (guard time) amount of time, send the "escape sequence (+++), wait for another "guard time" and then send the reset command (ATFR). In this case the escape sequence is changed from the default (+++) to @@@ because the telemetry for Ardustation for example contains the +++ sequence and because of this there is great risk of putting the XBee in command mode when you don't want to.

 

I made contact with Marcus Fahlen and he was kind enough to supply a great deal of information on his work, and work around, the following information & code is the work of Marcus Fahlen, and with his permission I have added it below, I'm at this point where I need help on where and how to implement the code and from which pins, just to make sure

 

// XBee control functions by Marcus Fahlén

// sends a reset command (ATFR) through the

// UDB telemetry UART.

void xbee_reset( void) ; // This routine runs from the "servoPrepare.c" module in MatrixPilot

// main code directory. There is a flag i "options.h" for enabling or

// disabling the use of this code.

//

// This setup is for the 868 XBee PRO module which has a duty cycle

// of 10% (6minutes continuous transmission). Because of this I have written

// this piece of code that is meant to reset the XBee module at a choosen

// interval. I have done a lot of experimenting with different settings but

// I still have to find one that works 100% (count up to the guard time,

// send the escape characters, count up another guard time and then send

// the reset command. I don't bother to listen for any "OK" to check if

// the procedure was successful. That would demand bi-directional

// control code which I'm not capable of producing at the moment.

//

//

#define XBEE_PRE_GUARDTIME 25000

// XBEE_GUARDTIME : use approx 50000 for the "guard time counter"

// if your XBee is set up fo 50ms guard time.

// I have had greatest success with 50ms guardtime. I'm not sure why,

// but the shorter guardtime the more critical the timing becomes.

// Then again, longer guard times often results in a state where the

// XBee is in command mode but never recieved the reset command?

// This highly unwanted state ends when the XBee command mode "times-out"

 

// before it returns to "normal" operation. This time-out period is settable in

// the XBee and should of course be as short as possible.


//*****************************************************************************
// XBee control functions by Marcus Fahlén
// As for noe it only sends a reset command (ATFR) through the UDB telemetry UART.
// Hopefully it will be able to perform more sophisticated control functions later
// like output power management based on distance to base station and other circumstances
// that calls for a variation in output power.

void xbee_reset (void) ;

unsigned int xbee_skip = 0 ;
long guard_time = XBEE_PRE_GUARDTIME ; // XBEE_GUARDTIME : approx nnn for 10ms guard time 

void xbee_reset( void)
{
 ////// Skip every other run through this function.
 if (++xbee_skip < XBEE_RESETPERIOD) return ;
     unsigned int delay;
     for(delay=0;delay<guard_time;delay++);     // pre escape sequence guard_time 
         serial_output( "@@@" ) ;     // send escape sequence
       for(delay=0;delay<guard_time;delay++);     // post escape sequence guard_time
     serial_output("ATFR\r\n") ;
     xbee_skip = 0 ;
     return ;
}

 

// Maybe the reason for the reset routine missing is that it becomes

// "disturbed" by the interrupts running on the UDB? If an interrupt occurs between the

// the time where the "ATTENTION" command is being sent, but before the "reset" command is

// sent, I think causes the "hang state" that I have a lot of trouble with.

// The only thing to do is to calculate the timing need carefully, and maybe disable the

// interrupts all together while the "reset" command is being sent. That would assure that the

// reset is carried out as fast as possible. (50ms guard time times two + the time it takes to

// send the command characters)

//

// Use a command mode timeout of 200ms (ATCT2) which is the shortest possible.

// As described above, there is a chance that the routine "misses" and leaves

// the XBee in a non-transmitting state (comand mode), but it will only last for 0.2sec

// if setup as described. Then the XBee exits the command mode and resume normal operation.

//

// Also change the default escape character to "@" since the the telemtry

// output uses lots of "+++" in its data.

#define XBEE_POSTCOMMAND 10000

 

www.buildyourowndrone.co.uk

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JPO Hosts AMA Webinar on FAA Rulemaking

Here is where you can get the info and powerpoint from the recent webinar on the FAA RUlemaking. Seems the AMA is really pushing the "No rules for AMA members and no recreational use without the AMA" line. Seems to me they want to make everyone join the AMA whether they need it or not. The AMA has done nothing to "supervise" model aviation in its entire history so why should the FAA think they will do so if given that power? Sounds more like an AMA money grab to me. The AMA is doing nothing in this process for anyone but the AMA, this is not their NPO tax exempt stated purpose.

 I seriously hate this attitude from an NPO supposedly being the voice for "all model aviation". Guess they need a way to boost their falling membership numbers. Nothing like a monolpoly without rules to make that happen. I honestly hope the FAA will tell the AMA to stick it and give us reasonable rules for all recreational users. IMHO The AMA is little more than an insurance company looking to make more money.

AMAJPO_Updt_12-15-10.pdf

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3D Robotics

DIYDrones now at 13,000 members

3689382424?profile=originalAs is customary and traditional, we announce each new thousand members. Now we're at 13,000 members. Growth is continuing to accelerate. We now add an average of one new member every 70 minutes. Given the screening process to accept new members (they have to fill out an admission form and be approved by a moderator, a process that is designed to avoid spammers, which we've been quite good at keeping away), this is not bad at all. At the current rate, we'll break 1 million page views a month by Feb.

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