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I been working on this project for about a year, but i never had the time to finish it. Is very difficult go to the field with your bulky laptop all the time, not to mention that you can damage it and the battery life is to short (the sun on the screen don't let you see anything). So i spent some time using Olimex development board with the Atmega128, but i want it to make it simpler, open-source, bigger screen (with back light) and Xbee compatible. So i come to this:

-Atmega328 at 16Mhz with Arduino Bootloader.-XBee Socket and 3.3V powered (I've included some holes near to the antenna so you can hold it with a strap) .-Can be powered with 2 and 3 cell LIPOS (diode protected and regulated).-Huge 4 line screen with backlight, very clear under the sun! (2 pots to control the backlight and contrast).-FTDI port to upload code, also the boards is ready to be programmed with XBee (using this trick).-Six button to navigate and change screen and options.-Very noisy buzzer that can be used to alert you when it has low battery or low altitude.-6 I/O analog pins available, including the I2C port.-2 powered SERVO OUTPUTS (Tilt & Pan) than can be used to control a directional antenna (NICEE!).-Extra 3.3V and 5V volts outputs.-Status LED's.-The software is ArduPilot compatible and Open Source (out of the box).

What you can do:-Portable Telemetry.-Send commands (Ardupilot mega).-Robotics.-Remote control robots, can be used with Wii NunChuck to send commands.-Smart toaster's and dishwashers. (I use it to control my reflow oven).

The cost would be around $57dlls. 17 units will be ready in the next 10 days. Any orders?Has no official name, but for now is ArduStation (Later i will release the ArduToilet, LOL). The pictures only show the first prototype, that have some minor mistakes like the holes to close to the edges, i didn't include the reset button and the 5V power regulator get pretty hot (when 3 cell lipo is attached), so i change it to the big ventilated version. All this is fixed in the release version. I still working on the software.

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Moderator
Here is the answer from multiplex on a request for a bigger model like Easystar.Hello,we got similar requests from several other pilots as well.First of all, the Easy-Glider was made in some view to get a bigger plane with adequate flying caracteristics than EasyStar.We know, that with the prop in front it is not that easy to convert, but some people did this with good success.On the other hand it is not possible to make the same model simply bigger.The demanding on stuctural strength is dramatically increasing, especially, when the wight is increasing by additional payload.The molding costs are much higher and usually the bigger the model the smaller the qty which means highly increasing costs per pcs.From our point of view, at this stage the group of people, who areusing cameras and/or GPS-System in the EasyStar is kind of piggybacking on the succes of a model designed to learn to fly.And this is still by far the majority of EasyStar-customers.From our point of view it take a while till this specific demand justifies a specialized model, made of moulded foam. Other manufacturing technics, which does not require such a big investment suits better at this time.But we have several models which probably could be adapted, e.g. the Twinstar, which we in our house are using to make fotos with a standard digital camera.Another model with high capability of payload is the Mentor, which we are using as carrier for rc-parachuters with a wight of 600 to 800 g.Or on a slightly smaller scale the EasyCup works very well to carry camaras.Best regardsMULTIPLEX Modellsport GmbH & Co. KGGerhard GreinerMarketingleiterHmmmm....
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3D Robotics

Jordi was able to source some fantastic cables to connect the FMA sensors to the ArduPilot shield, which make the whole autopilot integration process MUCH easier and more reliable. The connector is designed to solder right into the ArduPilot shield (see above) and plugs right into the FMA (or AttoPilot) XY and Z sensors. Highly recommended and just $7.50. You can see the full connector below:

Pitot tube and silicon tubing for airspeed sensor. Just $4.90!

Finally, a little thing that can make life a bit easier. It's a "bind plug" and you can use it instead of a jumper when you're setting up ArduPilot the first time each day at the field (recording the home position). Just solder a female servo cable's black and white wires to the two holes where the jumper goes and then string the servo connector outside your plane. Then you can just insert the bind plug and it will work like the jumper, without having to get inside the cockpit and mess about with the autopilot itself. Just $1.25!
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3D Robotics

New UAV company


I've been hearing about a new UAV company called Whisper Aerospace that's focused on the low end of the nascent domestic commercial sector. Founders include our own Patrick Egen and Lucien Miller, the electrical engineer who does the terrific Power Systems Corner on the All Things That Fly podcast and runs Inno8tiveDesigns.

The company is still in stealth mode, but here's what they are saying about their plans:

"Whisper Aerospace is a new company founded by a group of individuals with a very diverse range of technical skills, all working to create and bring to market the first Commercial/Civilian UAVs that will be able to fly in the NAS (National Airspace System). Our UAVs will feature reasonable payload capacity and operational performance, thereby offering clients considerable flexibility in solving their needs for an airborne platform that is not hampered by the relatively low performance and restricted operational capabilities of current systems. Multiple communications protocols and power sources will be available inside our standardized payload modules in order to make it easier to integrate client hardware. Our ground control systems will be very user-friendly and offer a wide range of options and customizable features."
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3D Robotics

The correct Blimpduino behavior modes are as follows. First power-up of board, straight from the factory:
Red Power LED: On
Four green LEDs Flashing in sequence, then altogether, then in sequence again:
Blimpduino code loaded, RC receiver plugged in. Power on/calibration sequence:
Red Power LED: On
Four green LEDs 1st: flashing in sequence. Then: North LED only while reading RC. Then: alternate N&S, E&W to signal RC control
Vectoring servo: Responds to RC stick control
Motors: Speed up when channel 2 stick is pushed up, slow down when pushed down. Channel 1 stick controls which motor spins faster
Autonomous mode (RC not connected) startup:
Red Power LED: On
Four green LEDs Flashing in sequence
Vectoring servo: Moves up, level and then down while calibrating US sensor. Then tilting up or down for altitude hold depending on whether the board is above or below initial height
Motors: Should spin. Direction/speed depends on what the sensors are seeing
Autonomous mode (RC not connected); beacon present and visible to board:
Red Power LED: On
Four green LEDs Light up in direction of beacon
Vectoring servo: Then tilting up or down for altitude hold depending on whether the board is above or below initial height
Motors: Should spin. Direction/speed depends on what the sensors are seeing
Autonomous mode (RC not connected); beacon not present and or not seen by board:
Red Power LED: On
Four green LEDs Off
Vectoring servo: Stationary, usually titled down
Motors: Should spin. Direction/speed depends on altitude
Battery low:
Red Power LED: On
Four green LEDs All flashing
Vectoring servo: Stationary
Motors: Off
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On the 20th April it was revealed that a Pacific Blue 737-800 had been involved in a near miss with a model aircraft whilst on final approach to Perth International airport's runway 03. It was alleged that the owner and operator of the model aircraft had took off from a park nearby and delibretly flown the model aircraft with in 30 metres of the 737-800, this has since sparked a CASA (civil aviation safety authority) investigation into the incident. Police and CASA are continuing with their investigations. Fortunately the model aircraft intercepted the 737's jetwash (or more commonly known as wake turbulence) which in turn caused it to spiral towards the ground.Video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4u7sXslgo8gI hope nobody will try to hit the Space Station with a RC Rocket :)
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6ch24gradiomanualen.pdfI just purchased this low cost 2.4 G Computer Trasmitter/Dual Receiver that is cheap because it does not have the LCD, etc. adjustments built in, but uses your computer to set up and change the settings. It's seems similar to the FASST or Spektrum. (Here is another place to get it from)Of course I promptly broke off the small (about 2 inches) antenna wire on the receiver. My question, before I solder it back: can I add a longer length antenna to replace the broken one (since I will need to take it apart anyway) so I can potentially increase range? If yes, it would increase range, how long of an antenna should I make (between 5-12 inches)?Thank you,Tom
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I was searching for a way to exchange data between an Arduino/ArduPilot and a Java application. There are already several solutions to do this but none of them really met my requirements. So I decided to write a library that implements a mechanism called serialization/deserialization. The now called SimpleSerialization library allows you to define a data structure (or object) that will be converted into a stream which then can be sent via a serial connection.DownloadsThe distribution: SimpleSerialization-1.0.zipThe project page: code.google.com/p/simpleserialization.What you can do with it- debug an Arduino application in a very convenient way- remote control an Arduino- setup a hardware-in-the-loop simulation- and moreAn example SimpleSerialization application could be to feed an Arduino with GPS data at 5Hz and attitude data at 30Hz. In return the Arduino would send the calculated actuator commands back at a rate of 10Hz. All this data would be exchanged via a single serial connection.Requirements- an Arduino or ArduPilot- a serial connection from a PC to the Arduino- and additional 2KB of flash memory when used with the ArduPilot- the Arduino IDE- a Java IDE (e.g. Processing or Eclipse)


The SimpleSerialization library is part of my UAV Playground project where I explore various aspects of UAVs like microcontrollers, simulators and remote controlled model airplanes.
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AludrACopter!!! or something like that...

AludrACopter Project:I started my analog 5-DOF modular IMU research and testing in January of 2009. I don't know much about electronics. I researched on op-amps and how to use it to create an analog computing device to do calculus integration of gyro signal then combine it with accelerometer signal. I also incorporated a multi-turn potentiometer to enable adjustable mixing of gyro and accelerometer.Then from February until April, I researched on a heli platform and assembled it. I chose a Furion 450 and some handpicked electronics accessories (I still don't know how to fly it but I could hover a little). My previous microcontroller at the time was a ZBasic but it only has 2 PWM pins (however, capable of several multi-tasking). To control a helicopter I need 4 servo signals. So I decided to change to Arduino for its multiple PWM. However, I didn't know how to program in C and Arduino cannot really do software multi-tasking.In May, I finished creating a digital version of the analog modular IMU. The device spits out tilt angle via serial communication. That means that it could send it to any device that could communicate serially. That makes it really easy to transfer it to any vehicle platform like airplane, car, heli, balancing robot, etc.June 5, 2009:I connected the Ardupilot board to the RC receiver and servos. Then I connected the 5-DOF modular IMU that I made to communicate serially with the Ardupilot. I didn't do a flight test yet because it's already 2am and I don't want to fly it inside my bedroom... =)It's capable of compensating for tilt so far but I still haven't written the code for the PID...Actually I'm thinking of creating a "learning" PID... I still have to sort out the theory in my head...Check out the pics and video in my profile.June 6, 2009:Flight test! The code is from scratch except the hardware PWM that I copied from Ardupilot code. The loop samples aileron (right servo) and pitch (left servo) signal from the transmitter. 5-DOF IMU module sends serial tilt angle to the Ardupilot board. Proportional control in respect to tilt from the IMU and controls the servo to change cylic head of the heli to align itself. I was not able to lift the heli off the ground because the heli started jittering left and right as I increase the throttle. I think that the gain for the control is too high.I reduced the gain and tried it again but the left servo kept on twitching therefore making the heli jump an inch or so erratically. I checked the code and found out that the pulseIn is not capturing an accurate signal from the receiver. I am very disappointed because the resolution of pulseIn is not enough.June 7, 2009:To see if it's going to be able to leave the ground, I remove the pulseIn command line and permanently set both left and right servo to a decent collective pitch to give the blades enough lift. The heli was able to lift off the ground about two inches or so for few seconds. However it kept on circling (about 1 foot radius). I think that it has something to do with the IMU's "center" calibration. The IMU's center is not aligned with the heli's vertical center of gravity. I think I could fix this issue by hanging the heli by its rotor head and calibrate the IMU from that position. Or I could connect a switch to one of the channel to trigger the IMU to calibrate when the heli is in perfect hover during manual control. I will probably do the "hanging" technique first.June 10, 2009:Considering pulseIn wouldn't work in capturing the pulse signal from the receiver, I've been reading Atmega datasheets on how to use hardware timer1's higher resolution to measure the throttle's signal.The throttle signal tells me where to set the starting point for both servos. So far the datasheets and instructions on how to use the timers are so cryptic and stressing me out! These past few days I've been studying how to do bit math as well considering I would like to tweak the microchip's registers.

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Short scenario involving UAVs

Chris et al.,I write a scenarios blog focused on near-future military topics, some inspired by P.W. Singer's "Wired for War." Thought the group might be interested in my most recent post, a bit of slightly speculative short fiction about UAV use by unfriendly states:http://counterstories.blogspot.com/2009/06/pickets-charge.htmlHope you find this appropriate for the site and please feel free to let me know what you think, good-bad-or-indifferent.Paul Kretkowski
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3D Robotics

Blimpduino code debugging tips

If you're trying to upload code with Arduino and you get this error message: "Problem uploading code..... avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x78 avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x78" Here are six things to check. 1) Is your FTDI cable plugged in the right way? The black wire or side marked "black" should be on Blimpduino's BCK pin. 2) Did you select "Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (8 Mhz)" as the board in the Arduino Tools menu? 3) Are you using the DIY Drones FTDI cable or Sparkfun board? We've had trouble with other ones... 4) Is the Blimpduino board powered on with a battery? (You can NOT power it from the FTDI cable; this is a safety measure to avoid power conflicts.) 5) The board is set up to auto-reset when you load a sketch with the FTDI cable, so you don't have to manually press the reset button to get the bootloader. If that's not working for you, check the RTS setting in your PC's port settings ("Set RTS on close" should be checked) as described here. If those all look fine and you're still getting the error message (especially if you can successfully load code to other Arduino boards), you may have a corrupted ArduPilot bootloader or some hardware problem. This tutorial will show you how to reload the bootloader. Other problems can include "Serial port not found" (just check that you've selected the right serial port in the Tools menu. It's the one assigned when you first plugged in the FTDI cable--probably 5 or higher), and the Arduino IDE freezing (try unplugging the FTDI cable. If that doesn't work, just reboot you computer).
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