Hello againI'm trying to make a UAV that will go to about 30Km high with the aid of a weather/sounding balloon. After the balloon pops/ gets relised I want the UAV to parachute down taking pictures as it goes then at around 20,000 feet for ether a glider to open out on top, or a ram parachute to open up to help fly the UAV back. The only problem is that I have found very little help on the net on which is better or how to make them for a UAV that weights about 1.5kgAny help with ether how to make a powered parachute or powered glider would be very much appreciated.Thanks for all the help with the tracking of it by the way.I've decided to chance to a fixed wing aircraft (powered glider maybe?) due to the high speed at which it will be traveling. Dose anyone have any ideas on what materials are a good choice for the wings as during the descent they will experience high g-force. I was thinking about foam maybe but not to sure as I don’t have any experience at designing and building foam models. I am planning on doing a lot of testing between now and Christmas with different airframes if I can build a strong yet light enough model. (Less then 1.5kg.)Dose anyone know if it would be possible to get ardupilot to relies itself from the balloon at between 60,000 to 80,000 feet and follow waypoints back to base camp. And is it possible to use an xbee-pro with ardupilot to control the UAV whiles in flight? Or can you update ardupilots waypoints using xbee while the UAV is in flight?Read more…Developer
Posted by Jordi Muñoz on August 11, 2009 at 11:30am
If you ever wonder how to read and decode the protocol check this:The protocol looks like this in terminal:!!!LAT:33952600,LON:-117409072,SPD:0.38,CRT:0.00,ALT:0,ALH:0,CRS:185.80,BER:94,WPN:0,DST:25853,BTV:11.84,***+++ASP:0,THH:85,RLL:26,PCH:-31,STT:2,***+++ASP:6,THH:85,RLL:27,PCH:-30,STT:2,***+++ASP:11,THH:85,RLL:27,PCH:-29,STT:2,***+++ASP:14,THH:77,RLL:28,PCH:-29,STT:2,***+++ASP:15,THH:72,RLL:28,PCH:-28,STT:2,***!!!LAT:33952596,LON:-117409072,SPD:0.24,CRT:0.00,ALT:0,ALH:0,CRS:185.57,BER:94,WPN:0,DST:25853,BTV:11.88,***+++ASP:16,THH:68,RLL:29,PCH:-23,STT:2,***+++ASP:18,THH:60,RLL:30,PCH:-20,STT:2,***+++ASP:17,THH:61,RLL:31,PCH:-21,STT:2,***+++ASP:14,THH:69,RLL:30,PCH:-27,STT:2,***+++ASP:13,THH:71,RLL:29,PCH:-31,STT:2,***There's a low rate string at 1hz that start with !!! and the second string is 4hz and starts with +++, both finish with ***.You need to be able to search for the head of every string like "LAT:", without care of the order, then you read the value after and stop until you reach the comma. In C/C++ are functions that do that for you, if you need an example please read the ardustation source code.Definitions low rate:LAT: LatitudeLON: LongitudeSPD: Speed over ground from GPSCRT: Climb Rate in M/SALT: Altitude in metersALH: The altitude is trying to holdCRS: Course over ground in degrees.BER: Bearing is the heading you want to goWPN: Waypoint number, where WP0 is home.DST: Distance from WaypointBTV: Battery Voltage.RSP: Roll setpoint used to debug, (not displayed here).Definitions high rate:ASP: Airspeed, right now is the raw data.TTH: Throttle in 100% the autopilot is applying.RLL: Roll in degrees + is right - is leftPCH: Pitch in degreesSST: Switch Status, used for debugging, but is disabled in the current version.I know the protocol sucks but is very flexible and i can add and remove new strings when ever i want without damaging the parsing of every groundstation. In ArduPilot Mega i will use ONLY binary protocol with Message ID's, Payload Bytes and CheckSums, better/faster/efficient/flexible..Enjoy!
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GCS is used for telemetry and data logs visualization, autopilot setup, waypoint settings and also for simulation and extensive testing after introducing changes to the autopilot code (GCS sends simulated GPS and attitude data to the autopilot and reacts to received servo signals) . It is still a bit rough yet functional.
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I was asked to post some close-up pictures of the modifications I made to my easy star uav. So here they are - nose cover with hinges and additional compartment for second battery. I also decided to call it UBWuav since it is based on UBW PIC32 board.
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Posted by Peter Seddon on August 11, 2009 at 3:05am
Came across this post on the Mikrokopter forum and wondered how this might affect the Ardupilot fitted with the Ublox LEA5-H: " we did our tests with the LEA5H to use it with the NaviCtrl. We couldn't find a solution to get it work. The data rate of the LEA5 is not constant. (depends on how many satelites are received). Statement from ublox: this is a typical behavior, if you use refresh rates below 1 Hz.This is the reason, why we use the LEA4H for our MKGPS.So - LEA5H is not recommended to use together with the NaviCtrl."The NaviCtrl is an ARM based navigation/data logging board with GPS.regards Peter
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Posted by Paul Mather on August 10, 2009 at 10:30pm
My first "attempt" at modifying Jordi's Config Tool is getting close to a release.The key benefits are:1) Click to add waypoints2) Drag & drop ability once added3) Search by address (home and waypoints)If anyone knows how to address GMarkers from Google Map's API V2 directly (ie getElementById) in C#.NET, please let me know! Right now, I'm polling a hidden control on the html form for index, lat & long info. It's not the best way, but it's working....The screenshot above was created by clicking the "Home" radio button and entering "grand canyon" on the address field...then hit search. The waypoints were added by clicking around the home point on the map. No typing in lat & long coordinates or looking them up in Google Earth....
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One of the best ways to test your sensors, servos and navigation routines is by walking around carrying the plane. But that can be cumbersome, and there's always the risk that you'll forget to unplug a wire and end up getting whacked by a spinning prop. Also, who wants to program with a plane in your lap for testing?
So I knocked together this little UAV simulator. It's just a strip of thin plywood with a little toy elevator and rudder so you can see what's going on. This one has all the equipment necessary for a fully-functional UAV, so I can not only test navigation but also stabilzation, watching the Xbee-transmitted data in realtime with a handheld ArduStation. It's perfect for walking around and testing waypoints without looking like a total dork for carrying around a model airplane (although it's not much less dorky to carry around a slab of electronics and wires).
Anyway, if you want to know how the DIY Drones sausage gets made, there you go!
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To keep a bit of order here, I need to emphasize the difference between blog posts and the forums. ALL tech support issues and questions should go in the Forum. Blog posts are ONLY for information of interest to the broader DIY Drones community, such as:
-News about UAV, sensors, airframes, R/C electronics, etc.
-Successful UAV setups and flights.
-Notification of new updates for any UAV hardware/software.
Everything related to support, introductions, Ardupilot suggestions and general purpose questions MUST go to the Forums.
Person who post in the wrong area will be notified and the post will be deleted (we'll send you a PM with a copy of your post, so you can repost in the right area).
Hopefully, this will keep the center column here on the front page interesting to all community members.
Sincerely.
The Management
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I was test flying today in anticipation of a trial for the T3 Contest entry tomorrow. The winds were pretty high, around 20-25 Mph, and the airplane was unable to make headway against them. So I reverted the throttle to manual control (plugged ESC straight into the RC) and made sure that the throttle was always high enough to make good headway. Night and day! The plane navigated great and did figure eights overhead for 15 minutes before I put it back into manual and landed it.
Once I've got all the other gains tweaked, I'll start tweaking the pressure sensor and throttle, but for now the best way to test is with a manual throttle.
I've added the following text to the manual:
"Our recommendation is that while you're first setting up ArduPilot for your aircraft, you do NOT use it to control the throttle. Rather than connecting the ESC through the ArduPilot, connect it straight to your RC receiver as usual. That way you can control the throttle manually while ArduPilot is controlling stabalization and navigation. The main reason for this is that it's very difficult to tune aircraft in the wind, especially if the throttle settings are not sufficient to make headway (when the aircraft is heading into the wind with a insufficient throttle setting, its ground speed may drop to zero, which will confuse the GPS navigation, which is based on ground speed). Manually keep the throttle high enough to make headway into the wind, and you'll find it much easier to observe and tweak stabalization and navigation gains."
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NOTE: I released the "magic smoke" today (8/7/2009) on my ArduPilot board, so development of the emulator will be stopping for the next two weeks. I need to order parts and I also need to appease the wife (too many late nights recently playing with my new toy).NOTE: This project is a part of Remzibi's OSD project, please download and install Setup.exe to make sure you have all the necessary DLL's and controls!!!OverviewThis project is used to provide emulated GPS data for the ArduPilot hardware using Remzibi's USB to serial cable. The emulated output will provide feedback for the Ardu's movement commands. It does require a recompile and upload of the firmware to the Ardu so you will need the FTDI cable. The output is then displayed on Google Maps and updated every 5 seconds. Home position and waypoints are shown as well.For info on Remzibi's OSD: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=921467To purchase the ArduPilot: www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8785Programming cable for ArduPilot (GET THIS ONE NOT SPARKFUN'S!!): http://store.diydrones.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TTL%2D232R%2D3V3ArduPilot Manual: docs.google.com/View?id=ddjmqgw3_43gm6gvggfStraight Headers: www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=116Bind Plug: store.diydrones.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AC%2D0002%2D01Getting StartedFirst, you'll need to solder on the headers as shown here: docs.google.com/View?id=ddjmqgw3_43gm6gvggf#2_Preparing_the_hardware_87968. The Emulator will only make use of a small number of these connections, but you'll need most of them when it comes time to fly. You'll also need to solder on the MUX jumper shown in the second photo. For this project, I am not making use of the ArduShield.Next, download the Arduino development environment frm here: arduino.cc/en/Main/Software and unzip it into a folder on your PC (ie C:\Program Files\Remzibi OSD).Now download the GPS Emulator from here: www.happykillmore.com/software/RemzibiOSD/Waypoints/Waypoints.zipThis zip file contains the ArduPilot source v2.2 (modified for use with the GPS emulator) and the GPS Emulator software. Unzip these files into the same folder as the Arduino development (ie C:\Program Files\Remzibi OSD). In the ArduSource folder, you'll find a file called easystar.h. This file needs to be cut and pasted into a new folder in \arduino-0016\hardware\libraries named ArduPilot so the new "full" path will be C:\Program Files\Remzibi OSD\arduino-0016\hardware\libraries\ArduPilot\easystar.h.Next, plug in your FTDI cable and determine the com port. Click Start, Run and enter devmgmt.msc and hit OK. Expand the branch called Ports (COM & LPT). You should see it in the list.Open the folder C:\Program Files\Remzibi OSD\arduino-0016 and run arduino.exe. Click File, Sketchbook, Open and browse to C:\Program Files\Remzibi OSD\ArduSource\ArduPilot_EasyStar_V22 and open any file in that directory. Next click Sketch, Verify/Compile. If you don't get any errors at the bottom, you're ready to upload the firmware to the ArduPilot.Uploading the firmwareNow that everything is compiled, click Tools, Serial Port and select the serial port you identified above. You need to plug the FTDI cable in to the ArduPilot and provide 5V power from a BEC or your radio. You can plug the power in to any of the servo input or outputs.Next click the icon labeled "Upload to I/O Board" in the Ardino software. Keep your fingers crossed. It will take about 30 seconds. A good indicator is to see the amber colored light (status light) after 10 seconds will flash for a second and then go off if it's working. See here for details on the lights on the Ardu docs.google.com/View?id=ddjmqgw3_43gm6gvggf#Appendix_1_Correct_LED_behavioThis is a good time to take a break and calm the nerves. Maybe take a quick walk outside to smell the fresh air.... ah.... what a nice day....Setting up Waypoints (temporary)Download the software found here: ardupilot.googlecode.com/files/ArduPilotConfigTool_Fix1.zip.The software is difficult to use in my opinion because the map on the right is utterly useless. You can't click on the locations or even zoom in on any area. All you can do is Click Add Waypoint and type in the lat and long values. It might be helpful to use Google Earth to find these values. You can also try using this: www.happykillmore.com/software/RemzibiOSD/waypoint.html and zoom in to your location. Then you can click on multiple spots and view the tool tips (leave your mouse over the point). It's tedious, I know. Once you get them entered into the ArduPilotConfigTool click Actions, Select Port and select your FTDI cable's COM port. Choose your board style under Actions (probably AT328 if your board is red). Click Actions, Write. Hopefully, all went well. Please note that you did not set your home location during this process. That is done later.Please write down your waypoints. You'll need them later for another temporary work around.More instructions are available here: docs.google.com/View?id=ddjmqgw3_43gm6gvggf#Using_the_Setup_Utility_137125Wiring the ArduPilot for use with the GPS EmulatorTo wire up the USB to serial to the ArduPilot, you're going to need to connect the ground wire to the top left corner (marked GND) or to any of the grounds (marked "-") on the servo input/outputs. The Blue wire goes to TX0 and the white to RX1.Next you'll need to provide 5V power from either your RX/ESC or from a BEC (as shown below). If you have the "old" 4-wire OTI USB to Serial from Remzibi, you can power the board using the red and black in the top left corner.You'll also need jumper the D6 pin to the pin to the left of it (GND). This is the "safety"/set home position jumper. BE CAREFUL not to jumper the GND to the unlabeled pin to it's left. I released the magic smoke from my ArduPilot that way!!!Finally, you need to connect a servo tester or your RX on a channel with a 3-position switch to the servo input labelled CTRL. The down position is normal flight mode (no auto-pilot). Middle position is Waypoint mode (will fliy on auto-pilot from home to all of your waypoints and then back home and will repeat). The up position is RTL (return to launch) / return to home. I'm not sure what it does when it gets home because I fried my board before I could test it.Editing the Default.html file (temporary)In C:\Program Files\Remzibi OSD there is a file called Default.html. This is the "template" for the Google Maps output. Please open this file in notepad and edit the lines that look like:var oMarkerLatLong = new GLatLng(41.251576,-81.814974);var oMarker = new GMarker(oMarkerLatLong, {icon:icon});map.addOverlay(oMarker);Please do not edit the first one that has %HOME% in it. This will be replaced by the GPS emulator software. You can have as many waypoints as you want. The Default file has 5 plus the home position. All you have to do is change the values after new GLatLng( to the values you wrote down in the Setting Up Waypoints section above.In the future this will all be automated and selecting your home location and waypoints will be MUCH easier.Using GPS EmulatorNow you can run the GPS Emulator program (C:\Program Files\Remzibi OSD\GPSEmulator.exe). You need to select the right COM port for your USB to serial cable (Start, Run, devmgmt.msc) and 9600 baud and 5Hz. I find it helpful to click NMEA, Show NMEA Output so I can watch what's being sent and what's being received. You'll need to enter your home GPS location (could be the same as waypoint #1 if you want). I'm planning on changing the way the data is entered in the GPS emulator, but for now, you'll need to take the decimal place of your lat and long and multiply it by 60 and enter that. ie 41.251576 = 41 .251576 * 60 = 41 15.09456. I know, I know, that's annoying too, but don't worry, it's a work in progress.Connect the 5V power to the ArduPilot with the D6 + GND jumper attached. With the GPS emulator running (you may have to hit Connect and Start if this is your first time running it) you should see the blue light on the ArduPilot blink very fast and then turn off. Now you can remove the D6 + GND jumper. Now the blue light should come on solid indicating GPS lock. At this point, flip your control servo input to the middle position (waypoint mode) and check the checkbox labelled "Read Data from ArduPilot"....FINALLY! It's flying on it's own!!! You should see the waypoints on the map and a purple line being drawn. The update speed is once every 5 seconds because too much processor time was being taken up by drawing the map and it was making the program crash.In your C:\Program Files\Remzibi OSD folder is an output file called Maps.html. It contains the source for what you were looking at in the output window. A sample can be found here www.happykillmore.com/software/RemzibiOSD/maps.htmlEDIT: I'm still making progress without having a working Ardu. This screenshot shows a working drag & drop marker map for setting waypoints and home location. The search function works too!
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This Sparkfun product does it with 3-axis magnetometers + 3-axis accelerometers: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8656I have both 3-axis magnetometers and 3-axis accelerometers but I'm unsure what algorithm I could use to get a steady heading output. Any ideas?(I also have a 3-axis gyro and Kalman filter running so I have pitch and roll--although I can't seem to debug why pitch is laggy and roll is instant with the exact same code.)
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I'm sure there's plenty of experienced IMU builders on this board who can resolve this question (see here: http://www.diydrones.com/forum/topics/gyrospes-vs-acceleometers?x=1&id=705844%3ATopic%3A85220&page=1#comments (starting at the 5th comment) and here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1066119&page=30 (starting at post #443) for more discussions). In fact the question may even have been answered here earlier (in which case I apologize for re-asking it, but I couldn't find it). The question has both a practical aspect in terms of IMU component & s/w design and a theoretical one in terms of trying to understand the relevant physics. Read carefully, because I don't think this is a noobie question.Assume a 3-axis accelerometer is mounted close to the center of gravity of a quadrotor with the Z axis of the sensor aligned reasonably well with the thrust axis of the rotors and the X and Y axes aligned with 2 of the arms of the quad. If the flying quad is at a non-zero bank angle (i.e. is rotated about the x-axis from a level hover), what will the Y axis accelerometers read? In this case, the vehicle will be accelerating laterally in the earth axes (and possibly vertically depending on the magnitude of the thrust vector compared to the gravitational one). One school of thought claims that the Y accelerometer in this case should read effectively zero (assuming that aerodynamic drag, vibration due to rotors, noise, errors due to sensor misalignment, coriolis and centripetal forces, etc. are either negligible or accounted for). The reasoning is that all the forces should be coming from the rotor thrust, which is always in the Z body axis for a quad. By a similar argument, the X axis accelerometer should also read zero for any pitch angle. (I think the argument holds to some extent for helicopters as well, but the force vector will not always be in the Z body axis direction due to rotor flapping.)The opposing argument is that there are plenty of quadrotors out there that use accelerometers to self-level, perhaps as part of a Kalman or complementary filter algorithm. It would seem unlikely for them to work as well as we know they do if the X and Y sensors were reading zero regardless of the vehicle tilt. How do we resolve this conundrum? Is the model of how accelerometers work flawed? I believe it is valid to model the resultant output of any accelerometer by determining the net force and subtracting the gravitational force vector. This works if the sensor is stationary (it will read as if it were accelerating away from the ground at 1 g), or if it is in free-fall (reads zero). Is this model correct in general for arbitrary motion? Are these other forces on the quad that I'm ignoring important somehow?I'd prefer if your answer includes one or more of the following: time history graphs of a FLYING vehicle (we know we can measure tilt of a stationary sensor), or a free body diagram, or a set of equations, or a reference to a textbook or paper. As I said, I'm trying to understand the physics of the situation.Here's a picture, if it helps: http://www.diydrones.com/forum/attachment/download?id=705844%3AUploadedFi58%3A91201 This shows the forces in the earth vertical axis as being balanced, but I don't think that condition is necessary for the X body axis accelerometer to read zero.Thanks in advance.- Roy
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Hi AllMany thanks to all of you who helped and especially Rory Paul. I managed to use the info for a presentation and now have an "angel investor" / business partner, and we intend to run an Aerial Phography business for Agricultural Developement projects in Africa. We are going to Canada at the end of the month to meet the guys from Aerial Insight. Do some training, and hopefully purchase a AUV. We would also love to see the country and meet people who are doing interesting projects in related fields. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions I would really appreciate it.RegardsRoss WaltersAgricAir, AfricaDurban, South Africa
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hai...........i m persuing b.tech.3rd year with a a little knowledge of aeromodelling and a deep knowledge of advance robotics i had planned to make a uav and had planned fully to make it but nervous and confused from where to start.please help me .i had planned to use a gps nodule and atnega 64 to control aircraft om auto pillot mode.please tell me the use of compass and gyros and can the speed of engine can be controlled.i also wamt to know the avalibility of engines ang servos in lucknow and delhi
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Yup i fixed it since last time. They said it was the round headers that were not making a good connection. Well i got square ones and they are now tight fitting. So why do i have a problem? Ok im using 2.0 code which loads fine no z sensor or expansion shield. 2.4ghz 6ch transmitter and receiver already bonded and i know they are. I dont i have the ESC plugged in and am using a UBEC to power the receiver and board. Ok so i believe that everything is plugged in right and the lights are right so i dont know whats the deal. I know i didnt calibrate the sensor but that shouldnt effect the manual mode. I should always be able to have manual control when switch on and i dont. I doubt that will fix UAV mode too which is also not working. I made a video like last time so the link will be below.Thanks for any help :)ok here is the videoRead more…
Posted by Robert Drone on August 6, 2009 at 3:00pm
I know you've all heard of the easy star but what do you think of these? Are any of these any good? I picked them because they look decent but don't cost as much as the easystar for starting off with plain old flying [drone comes next]. If you know about any of them or any better ones please comment! Thanks!-Rd=]j3clubwildhawkAerobird Swift RTFAerobird 3 RTF ElectricFirebird Commander 2 RTF ElectricFirebird Freedom RTF ElectricAre any of these any good? I picked them because they look decent but don't cost as much as the easystar for starting off with plain old flying [drone comes next]. If you know about any of them or any better ones please comment!
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http://blogs.nasa.gov/cm/blog/CASIE4 those of U who want to know what it's like to operate a fixed wing UAV professionally, this is a good read, after work. U think a few thousand bucks in a tried & true fixed wing gets U a bulletproof hands off system but it doesn't. They have to watch for icing in flight, check weather before flight, verify thousands of systems, troubleshoot glitches, fix balky radios, & test fly before the actual mission.This is all after the grants are awarded, the debt is monetized, & the gear is at the location. The autopilot is not from Shenzhen KDS or Shenzhen Dajiang Innovation but Oregon of all places.They use the same Goog Earth tools U do. Their aft mounted propeller gets damaged by rocks thrown up by the landing gear. They take off & land manually using 2.4Ghz RC controllers before switching to autopilot. When was the last time U did a manual takeoff? They use iridium satellites for long range radio. They still cross their fingers every time they fly beyond line of sight.Like all grad school, the real challenge is not designing the experiments or solving difficult equations but troubleshooting sensors, swapping dead batteries, & stopping water intrusion.
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I have been trying all week- probably 20 hours so far to get the ardupilot code to load correctly. I have checked my driver installation countless times. emailed Mr Anderson several times, called FTDI and talked to customer service, had assistance form a CS grad all with no progress. I am extremely frustrated and am willing to pay if neccessary to get this !@#$%!! thing going.It appears as though the processor will not process any code because the very top line of code is "not declared in the scope" of the program. At one point we reordered some code and got the same error on the new line of code. This indicates to me that something really basic in the program is not being recognized.Any help would be greatly appreciated.ThanksRon Carter
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