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I've been using the PTGui software ($121) for years to stitch together aerial shots into composite mosaics, but noticed in Krzysztof Bosak's post that Microsoft Research had something called ICE that could be an alternative. I checked it out and it's fanstastic!

Micosoft ICE is free, fast, easy to use and in my experience much more accurate than PTGui. Highly recommended.

I've written up a recap of the 2011 AVC form Team Tobor's point of view. You can check it out here:

http://scottrharris.blogspot.com/2011/04/sparkfun-avc-2011-report.html

I'm planing on writing up some Kalman filter tutorials in the near future. 

Dear all, during routine test flying of Pteryx UAV, we had an opportunity to capture maps of various sizes.

The following example is made near our factory in Opaleniska village, South-East Poland.

One thing is clear: Google Earth is lying! The earth from above never looks as it shows.

The original is here:

http://www.aerialrobotics.eu/examples/GD800MapCollage.jpg

We have made this map collage out of 5 cases:

BLUE SNOW, RED SNOW, BROWN, BEIGE, GREEN. The samples were not the wisest, sharpest, largest nor the most glorious ones.

The stitching was made using fully automatic method (minus manual entering of time offset for camera) being developed for Pteryx UAV. However you could get plausible result with Microsoft ICE if your aim is surface documentation and when you can give up some accuracy.

Observe as in some cases you have highly varying cloud cover (lower-left corner). The two largest maps are around 2km^2 here and are not the biggest we have produced, as surface coverage varies between 3km^2 per 2h of flight (square map made of 75% overlap photos +reserve) to 24km^2 (80% overlap 80km straight line +reserve).

I think this post illustrates the key selling point of UAVs: it really does matter WHEN you make aerial photos and better do it below cloud level.

Hey all, though I might share the attached photo with you to show off some mods I've been working on whilst I wait for spare props to arrive from Thailand, after not loading code properly and flipping the copter on its maiden voyage.

Widened the landing gear to more stability, as well as increasing ground clearance for my GoPro, converted the dome to just two complete pieces rather than the fiddly centre piece, trussed arrangement, and hacked a standard USB cable to it can be plugged in easier for uploading etc.

I'm working on a new battery mount as well for fixing the GoPro, until I figure out how I'm going to do the pan-tilt, FPV setup.

Material is laser cut, 3mm black acrylic.

Cheers!

Previous wednesday, my APM arrived, but I haven't got any time to take a look at it. As soon as possible I should solder the pin headers, so that I can do some testing. Yesterday my motor and batteries came, which means that I hopefully can get the plan into the air by next week.

Below is a picture of the plane I am going to use. It's my brothers old .20 model, which I found of the loft and I have got his permission to use it. It haven't got airborne yet, although the plane is around 10 years old.

I will post some minor updates here, but there's more to be read at my official blog at http://uavbee.blogspot.com/.

Funny movie i made while waiting.

Minor background before I start.  

I've been playing with wheeled robots for a while, using the Basic Stamp as a controller.   Just tinkering, and more interested in the software side of things (as well as having something that annoys the cat).  My enthusiasm died out about 7 years ago, then my son gave me a Lego Mindstorms NXT kit for Christmas, and I was off and running again. 

At about the same time, a co-worker got me started on radio controlled helicopters (Blade CP/2 to start with, moving up to Blade 400 and TREX-450 over the last few years).  You can't have too many expensive hobbies :)

Managed to do quite well at this helicopter hovering in the back yard, and was doing quite well until about a year ago when I flew my pride and joy into a tree and broke just about everything except the tree.

"I wonder," I wondered, "if it would be possible to combine my robotic hobby with my RC flying hobby?" 

Poked around teh intarwebs a bit, and ended up here looking at the APM and the Arducopter code. 

Thus started work on what I am now calling Coptermatic, the Automatic Helicopter.  (with apologies to Wallace & Gromit)

So off we go:

Got my workbench set up, got me new Weller soldering station set up, played with some Arduino programming for a practice, and decided that tonight was the night.  

I solder all the pins on the APM. I solder all 48 pins on the right angle servo connector (the three pin monstrosity on the end of the board).  I've got all the pins on the APM,  

But the servo connectors seem a bit fragile, and my attempts to test-connect a couple of servos and Rx connectors seems wonky.    Imagine my amusement when I discover that I've soldered the damned servo connector on backwards.  For that connector ONLY, the black plastic bit doesn't go flush with the top of the board.  What's worse, I compared what I was doing with the pretty picture in the instructions four or five times and didn't notice my error. 

OK, so now I am sort of stuck.   I'm an amateur with the soldering iron (more of a software engineer with a  predilection for tinkering).  I'm not at all sure how to unsolder 48 connections; I think I need something more than desoldering braid and bad language. 

The current plan (as blessed by my long-suffering and patient wife) is to use this APM as the brains for a small wheeled robot which I shall call the Pipbot (in honour of the Fallout series of games) and to buy another APM from DIY Drones for the 'copter. 

So a bit of a (not-so) cheap lesson in following instructions.  This hardware stuff is a lot less forgiving than software.

This video show that the controller working for the first time.    !!!!!Awesome!!!!!!

I could barely keep a wheelie up and going before I started using my controller.

Tuning the code a little more before the ride.                      >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Ever since I was a kid I wanted to ride wheelies.  So I built a Arduino Wheelie Controller and started enjoying longer, safer wheelie'ing.  I use an Arduino Duemilanove ATMEGA 328 to control a LARGE  digital servo powered with a homemade servo power curcuit, coupled to a hydraulic hand brake.  The handbrake is connected to a steel braded brake line that runs down and connects in place of the rear hydraulic brake reservoir.  The controller uses a triple axis accelerometer and a single axis gyro to calculate when and how much brake to apply.  This controller can be used on 4wheelers and motorcycle with rear disc brakes. 

<<<<<<<<<< Controller

1.)Arduino Duellinove

2.) Triple axis accel & single axis gyro  "Black Box"

3.) Power supply for LARGE servo

4.) LARGE DIGITAL High speed & Torque servo w/ metal gears

  I connected my servo to a handbrake like this one and mounted it under the rear fender. >>>>>>>

I used this adapter to connect my handbrake to the rear brake master cyclinder.

Is this the smallest and the lightest quadcopter in the world?

Size: 12 x 12 cm

Weight: 20 g

Flight time: 4.5 min

More info at http://www.daedalus.nu/

Hexa frame adventures continue !

This time I've prepared the power board that will distribute power to all 6 ESC's and to additional devices (video TX, camera controls receiver unit, tracking system TX, LEDs and more...)

Important issues were: Lightweight, simple, high current, fail-proof.

And as we all LOVE pictures:

the view on the following picture is the BOTTOM of the central plate.

yes, the power board will stay under the main plates. it will allow interference free environment for the electronics mounted ABOVE the plate. as well as don't pissing off the magnetometer with high currents flowing nearby.

cutting the stencil paper:

PCB pen drawing:

After a few minutes of dremel-ing:

and... there you go.... nasty copper etching :

in it's final position - with nylon standoffs (mmm... guess why):

a decent layer of tin solder applied:

and a final view with 1/6 ESC's mounted:

We like your comments..... :)

This is a screenshot of part of one of my MP3.0 test flights from yesterday.  The plane was programmed to fly figure eights, using the UDB Logo program below.  The GPS track is shown at 1Hz, and the dead reckoned IMU track is shown at 4Hz.  The plane had taken off very recently when it started this track, so it was still calibrating for the wind speed. That's why the first side of the eight (blue) is a bit less pretty than the 2nd half of the eight (yellow). Each circle is programmed to be just over 100m in diameter, but I used a 20m waypoint radius, so the circles became much smaller.

There are a few things to notice here.  One is that the dead reckoning is pretty darn close to the GPS track.  The other noteworthy point is that the wind was blowing at almost 20mph, and the UDB adjusted its navigation gains dynamically as it turned into and away from the wind, to keep the course over ground in line with the flight plan.  Thanks to Bill for both of these improvements!

Here's the quick and dirty UDB Logo program I used for these eights:

SET_ALT( 60 )
SET_ANGLE( 0 )
SET_POS( -20, 50 )

REPEAT_FOREVER
       REPEAT( 18 )
               RT( 20 )
               FD( 20 )
       END

       REPEAT( 18 )
               LT( 20 )
               FD( 20 )
       END
END

Complete set of acrylic parts needed to build ArduCopter frame. You can find the files here:
http://www.ponoko.com/design-your-own/products/arducopter-set-5696

All files are under Attribution ShareAlike license (free).

Set uses two Ponoco P1 sheet sizes (181.0 mm long x 181.0 mm wide).
Suggested material: Acrylic - Clear 3.0 mm

Sheet 1:
Material: $2.00
Making: $13.57
Total: $15.57

Sheet 2:
Material: $2.00
Making: $13.80
Total: $15.80

Set has spare parts for all components, in case of flight crashes with frame damage. Content:
- Dome arch (4 + 2 spare)
- Dome center lower (1 + 1 spare)
- Dome center upper (1 + 1 spare)
- Motor mount lower (4 + 2 spare)
- Motor mount upper (4 + 2 spare)
- Landing gear fin (4 + 2 spare)
Total: 28 parts
Based on the opensource design:
http://code.google.com/p/arducopter/source/browse/#svn%2Fbranches%2Fjpkh%2Fframe
Correct line widths as suggested in Ponoco design templates, which is not true for previous Ponoco ArduCopter files. Enjoy.

 

Although it was a short lived flight it was fun. I always enjoy flying with my Pops, what makes it better is that I have both video from the ground and onboard the aircraft.  This helps identify what mistakes I made and why I had an unsecessful fight.

 

1. Over wieght .........aircraft not me LOL!!
2. I was flying to LOW
3. I was flying to SLOW
4. I was facing the sun
5. ???????

As I almost start my downwind as AirCraft stalls to the inside.  I try to roll left but it's to late and not enough power to pull out of it.  Watch my Airspeed drop right before I stall.

 

 

My Very First Test Flight was a Sucsess!! 

  This was at about 4am when i solved the last bug and it wanted to hover. 

Like my painters tape Battery Straps... I found some velcro later.  

    This is a fasttrack guide for building an ArduPilot Mega QuadCopter.  If you have already started or are about to start building a QuadCopter this guide is ment to be used as a reference to help fill in the blanks with your build and first setup. 

1.)  Remember SAFETY First, Always Remove Propellers when working with the quadcopter powered on the bench.  Proppellers can cause serious injury to You, others, small childern, and animals.     Remember not to forget to read up on Lipo Safety, Don't burn your house down!!!  LiPo Batteries are great batteries if used correctly.

Lipo battery info:  

2.) Hardware:

1. QuadCopter Frame:

     1.) Build your own.  If you build it yourself remember to keep it Light and Strong. 

     2.)  Already pre-built here:

        ArduCopter Frame Only              $170.00

        ArduCopter Frame + Motors        $320.00

 Motors: x 4   

        1.) AC2836-358 880Kv   with 10x4.5 prop      $24 

        2.) AC2830-358 850Kv  with 10x4.5 prop       $18      

        3.) TURNIGY 28-22 1400kv with 9x5 prop      $13

Propellers: x 4

     1.) 12x4.5             $6

     2.) 10x4.5             $6 

     3.) 9x5                  $3

3.) Electronics:

     1.) ArduPilot Mega & IMU with GPS /  header pins not assembled                                     $250

*Optional* Compass (needed for GPS hold)         $45

*Optional* Rangfinder                                      $54

*Optional* Telemetry                                        $150

          2.) Radio Control "RC"  Transmitter and Reciever  Tx/Rx 6 or more ch. 

                         1.) Turnigy 9X 9Ch                   $54

                         2.) Spektrum DX8 8Ch             $429

          3.) ESC  Electronic Speed Controller

               1.) DIY-Drones 25 amp ESC                              $18

               2.) HobbyKing Turnigy 25 amp ESC                  $12

         4.) Batteries  

 A basic quadcopter using the above listed motors and ESC needs at least a 2200mha 11.1v 3s 20C Lipo battery pack

                                                 Flight Times

              11.1v  2200mha  = 6-8 min +/- 1

                 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=15019                   $13

              11.1v  4400mha = 12-15 min +/- 2

   11.1v 2650mha  http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9267           $17

   11.1v 5000mha  http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14651         $25

After building your QaudCopter bench testing is a great way to determine the QuadCopters true power consumption needs. An Amp Meter can be used to verify that the battery(s) are opperating with in a safe "C" range.  Before you start flying around with your QuadCopter you should test your battery time on the bench to get an average idea of how long your batteries will last.  Setting the transmitter count down timer will help remind you when to land. Only if you remember to start it. :)  My rule of thumb is land before the battery(s) get to low.  Low voltage battery alarms are a great way to help protect your batteries and your aircaft form power failure.

                 Low Voltage Alarms:

    Multi      http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=INTC23212                                     $12

            3s  http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7223                              $4

            4s  http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7225                              $4

The APM also has a 4s voltage alarm buit in that can be used as well

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

    Software Downloads:

ArduinoIDE    

                       This program is used to load your choice of QuadCopter "code" to the APM.

Windows download

MAC download

Linux download

 Reference guide for using the Arduino software http://arduino.cc/en/

 ______________________________________________________________________________

MediaTek utility and firmware 1.6 upgrade for GPS .

                            This program is used to update GPS firmware.

                Heplful reference                                     __________________________________________________________________________________________

Xbee module setup software:

      Latest version of XCTU: Contains features from previous versions, plus adds support for over-the air configuration of select XBee modules. 

This software will update it self once installed and yes it will work on 64-bit vista and win7

                          http://ftp1.digi.com/support/utilities/40002637_c.exe   

      Helpfulreference

 ___________________________________________________________________________________________

Configurator

  http://code.google.com/p/arducopter/downloads/detail?name=Configurator.zip

ArduCopter Configurator (requires LabVIEW runtime and drivers, too)

This Software Configures your RC Tx Transmitter and lets you test adjust the flight characteristics 

of your QuadCopter. 

Reference guide for using the Configurator http://code.google.com/p/ardupirates/wiki/Configurator

  __________________________________________________________________________________________

                                                 QuadCopter Code:  

Both files are needed. 

   PiratesNG Sketches rev.527  Place these files in your Arduino Sketch folder.

   PiratesNG Libraries rev.527  Place these files in your Arduino Libraries folder.

!!!!Must READ!!!!

ArduPiratesNG Reference page

Reference Guide for loading the code

Reference guide for using CLI

This is the code I'm currently using with my QuadCopter... :))

____________________________________________________________________________________________

 __________________________________________________

 Building The QuadCopter 

Build a light weight ridged frame.

        Spec.

               Square Aluminun tubing  1/16"' thick x 3/4'' x 3/4'' 

                1/16" x 1/2" Flat Stock

                 1/16" x 4"x4" Plate

      Secured together with 5/32" Rivets and Silicone in between.

                 24'' between motors

                 Frame only Weight:  350g       

This Frame is more on the tough side, i added Lightening holes to help lower the weight.  The Lightening holes only subtracted about 30g of weight... My next frame I pan on using carbon fiber arrow shafts and curcuit prefboard in hopes of creating a strong and even lighter frame.  Less weight = Longer flight times.

_________________________________________________________

 Props

         This Prop Has Been Balanced using sandpaper

The difference in CW & CCW rotating propellers

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!REMOVE PROPS until you are ready to fly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This video will help you Balance your Props 

 Installing Motors:

Warning!!!!!!!!!! Do Not Install Props!!!!!!!

    Motor:

       Model: TR28-22B-1400
                                          Max Eff: 5A
                                       Max Load: 8A
                                               Kv: 1400
                                           Weight: 36g
                                       Pull: 100~450g
                                     Prop: 8x4 or 9x5
                                         Voltage: 6~9v
                                        Length: 23mm
                                         Power: 70W+

                                       9 x 5 Propeller

        QuadCopter ready to fly weight 990g

        These motors are great!!  During bench testing each motor measured 5 amp's with a total of 20 amp's constant with all 4 motors @ a hover and climbing to 26 amp's with sudden throttle burst. After a 7 min hover around the motors stayed very cool. The only down side to these motors is that you need to buy 6 to make sure you get 4 really good ones.  One of my motors has loose bearings and vibrates really bad sometimes.  I also recommend getting at least one extra motor just in case you crash.  Don't for get props too... :)

 Watch and listen to this motor vibrate on takoff.!!!!!!!!

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

   Connecting Motors to ESC             

Electronic Speed Controller             

ESC

Model:

Turnigy 25amp Plush 

              Cont Current: 25A
             Burst Current: 35A
             BEC Mode: Linear
             BEC : 5v / 2A
             Lipo Cells: 2-4
             NiMH : 5-12
             Weight: 22g
            Size: 24x45x11mm

 I like these ESC because they come ready to go out of the box, although you should always make sure each one is programed the same first.  During my bench testing they barely even got warm.

Helpful reference guide for connecting ESC's

                                        http://code.google.com/p/ardupirates/wiki/ESC

 How to correctly connect motors the first time with this setup is easy.  Use the identifiers to help u connect each motor.  Each motor has 3 wires Black, Red, Yellow, Each ESC has 3 wires all red but labled at the ESC "A,B,C".

  Start with the Front & Rear motors    3 Front & 4 Back

   "A" wire from esc connects to RED wire on motor 

     "B" wire from ESC connects to BLACK wire on motor

       "C" wirre from ESC connects to YELLOW wire on motor

When connected correctly front and rear motors should spin

in the same direction Clockwise "CW"

                           Left & Right motors   1 LT & 2 RT

   "A" wire from esc connects to BLACK wire on motor 

     "B" wire from ESC connects to RED wire on motor

       "C" wirre from ESC connects to YELLOW wire on motor

  The left and right motor should also spin in the same direction as eachother but in counter clockwise "CCW"

Connecting ESC's to Main Power connecter

 I recommend soldering these connection for many reasons.

• Cheap than buying connectors
• Connectors can fail
• Connectors are heavy
• more dependable

Connecting the ESC's together is pretty straight forward

RED to RED

BLK to BLK

• Use a battery pack to verifiy you have connected the wires to the battery connector the correct way afterwards. 
• Use heatshrik and electrical tape to protect the connections from contacting. 

 Configuring ESC connectors for APM

• Lable each ESC with motor #

           Front 3    Supply Power from ESC

           Rear  4

           Left   2

           Right 1

• Remove Red Power wire from ESC's 1,2,4
• Heatshrink non-use power wires from ESC's

Helpful reference guide for connecting ESC's

                                        http://code.google.com/p/ardupirates/wiki/ESC

Now The QuadCopter should look like this

______________________________________________________________________

Mounting Electronics 

•   Curcuit PrefBoad
•   Nylon screws & nuts
•   Light weight setup
• Mount APM Telemetry Port pointing forward @ motor # 3 for   ( + )
• Mount APM Telemetry Port pointing Between motor # 3  &  1  for   ( X )

All this was cut with a razor knife.  Score and Break

The preboard's hole line up with the pins on the bottom of the APM witch helps to lock it in place without glue.

<<<<<<<<<<< I used packing foam that came with the SparkFun Xbee radios on top of the APM and tightend down the nylon nuts to compress the foam and lock in the APM.

I did this with the RC Rx as well  >>>>>>>>>>

________________________________________________

Connecting to the APM

_

• Compass
• GPS
• Telemetry

At this end of the Compass I used a small dab of silicone to help protect the compass from being damaged.

      I used 2 Plastic Headers to keep the Compass from being to close to the APM

Connecting to the compass is straight forward

• compass connects to APM not IMU
• Check Compass firmware with utility provided in software section of this blog.

          Use Double sided foam tape to attach GPS.>>>>>

• Telemerty Port is a good way to identify front of APM
• 

__________________________________________________

Connecting RC Rx to APM

• Indentify in/out ch on APM
• Modify female to female connector
• connect Rx outputs to APM inputs

Remove all but 1 RED wire

ch1 to in 1

ch2 to in 2

ch3 to in 3

ch4 to in 4

ch5 to in 5 

ch6 to in 6

The one jumper with the RED wire will supply the RC Rx with Power from the APM.

Good Reference Guide

http://code.google.com/p/ardupirates/wiki/ESC

<<<<GPS- APM-RX-Xbee

Connecting it all together in the QuadCopter

Right motor ESC 1 >> APM out  1

Left motor   ESC 2 >> APM out  2

Front motor ESC 3 >> APM out  3

Rear motor  ESC 4 >> APM out  4

Before Plugging a battery in you should always double check to make sure everthing is connected correctly, otherwise you run the risk of Desrtoying any chance of fun. 

It's a good idea to hook everything up and get it all programed and talking before it's installed in to the Quad.  This will help get you comfortable working with the APM. 

___________________________________________________

Almost ready for take off....  

!!!!!REMOVE PROPS!!!!!!!

• Check all wiring is correct
• Load Code with ArduinoID
• Run CLI Setup
• Run Configurator Setup
• Test RC connection & range

  Reference guide for loading the code         http://code.google.com/p/ardupirates/wiki/Code_Loading

  Reference guide for using the Configurator http://code.google.com/p/ardupirates/wiki/Configurator

  Reference guide for using CLI                   http://code.google.com/p/ardupirates/wiki/CLI

  Reference guide for PreFlight                    http://code.google.com/p/ardupirates/wiki/Flying

If all Goes well then it's time to Fly.  This is video of my First test flight.

2nd Test Flight

3rd Test Flight

4th Test flight

Designed especially for FPV (First Person View) camera flight!
This is a true FPV plane thats easy to build and comes packed with common sense FPV must-haves such as rear mounted servos for the elevator and rudder to help counter balance the additional radio gear. Other practical features include the large internal ply mounting trays for attaching large amounts of equipment in the desired position for correct C of G and of course a large canopy area, the canopy is not mounted to the frame allowing you to configure as you please.

This model is hand-launch which is easy due to combination of a large wing, and plenty of fuselage to grab a firm hold of, with the reccomended 4s power train, there will be plenty of power for the initial launch. The fibreglass fuselage is ultra tough and ideally shaped landing on grass, with a flat bottom and rear skid.

Specs:
Material: Fiberglass & Ply/Balsa
Wing Span: 1669mm (65.7")
Wing Area: 34.3" dm2
Fuselage: 1181mm (46.5")
Motor Mount Diameter: 58mm
Distance From Center of Mount to Fuse: 114mm (max prop diameter 8"]
Flying Weight: 2300g
Minimum 4 Channel, 4 x Mini servo

Price is US$ 175 (or US$ 166 if you wait about half a minute for a pop up to appear)

More information: White version or Grey version

The MatrixPilot dev team is happy to announce that version 3.0 is finally out the door! This update includes a hefty code reorganization into modular, reusable libraries, along with some important new features, and refinements to our dead reckoning and wind estimation algorithms. The code should also now be much easier to hack on as a basis for using the UAVDevBoard for other purposes.

Thanks to all the developers and testers who helped out with this release!

More info over at our wiki.

What's New in MatrixPilot 3.0

• Support for up to 8-channel PPM RC Input on a single pin, freeing up other pins for other features, including up to 9 RC outputs. Compatible with this board from the DIYDrones store.
• Added a new mission description language based on LOGO.
• Allow sending waypoints (or UDB Logo instructions) mid flight over the telemetry channel.
• Much improved Navigation, due to improvements in Dead Reckoning and wind estimation.
• Improved camera-targeting logic and precision.
• Added an RTL Hold feature that keeps you in RTL mode once it's been triggered, until you flip your mode switch. This helps avoid chaos if you're flying at the edge of your RC range.
• Support for a still-experimental native On-Screen Display using this board from SparkFun.
• Improved autonomous landing control.
• Improved flight analysis tools.
• Code restructuring into shared libraries makes building your own UDB-based projects much easier!

step by step, the HEXA frame is being constructed.

haven't worked on it for a while, but now i'm done with an interesting part:

I used the original arducopter motor mounts (the plates that come with the motors, which are not used on the official arducopter frame)

to be tied on the square arms, and between the mount and the motor, i've used:

*bling*bling*  RUBBER MOUNTS *bling*bling*

on the video you can see it works perfectly. isolating the motor from the aluminum arm.

with 6 motors working at very high throttle to keep this 4.5-5kg hexacopter, i'll need this vibration isolation to make nice and smooth videos.

and now, some pictures, 'coz we all like 'em !

COMMENTS ARE WELCOME !