Hi,

after finishing my last project, I'm ready for the next challenge.
However,  right now I can't afford to start another project and buy components for development, although I'd have ideas of course.

So I'd like to offer my experiences in 3D modelling, printing and basic programming skills for some interresting development!!!

What I'm looking for is:

• participate in 3D development of airframes, planes, gimbals or similar
• optimizing parts and components for 3D printing (strength, printability, weight optimization)
• doing FEM strength analysis on parts or multiple parts
• building and testing complete multirotor or fixed-wing (and of course helicopters, see one of my blog posts earlier) systems

Please note that because of software rights, I can only provide native 3D file formats as a result (step, iges, stl, dwg, dxf, etc.).

I'm located in Hungary, Europe, my email address is nhadrian@gmail.com. 

Regards
Adrian

Hi, since my last blog entry I made some more changes on my design. 

Key features:

• Video TX antenna is positioned at the end of the main body to improve signal strength during fast flights
• GPS hollow in the top part is replaced by a Buzzer hollow (I'll not use GPS in the future for FPV racers), the hole in the front of the main body can be left open for better air vent around video TX
• I added a mall 3mm diameter hole in the top part for transmitter RX antenna placement
• 0 degree of motor bank and 25 degrees of camera angle
• electronics are the same as before 

Here are the uploaded STL files for printing and DXF for antenna plate milling.
I hope you'll like it.

Regards
Adrian

PS.: as always, use my design on your own risk!!!
If you think my work useful and would like to support the prototype building, you can donate by paypal (nhadrian@gmail.com) or any of the components listed above are wellcome.

Hi again, this is my custom designed tray for my Graupner MZ-24. My goal was to build a small tray that can be removed easy without any tools and small enough to be put next to my transmitter in my bag. I think I succeed... :)

Suggested print settings:

• 0,2 mm layer height
• 3 layers all around (top, bottom, perimeters)
• 40% infill, 3D honeycomb

STL files for download are here.

Since the fixture element connects to the transmitters leg, accurate printing is a must without any print defects on the connecting surfaces (ie. bloobs, holes, etc.)!!! Good luck!

Regards, Adrian

Hi guys, let me introduce the final version of my 3D printed FPV racer. Since the last blog entry I made some further small modifications according to my experiences. All files can be downloaded from the project GrabCAD page.

Since there is still some CG issues because of the banked motors, I suggest to use 2-blade props on front and 3-blade props on back motors. Flight characteristics is excellent with this setup.

The final version is printed of Polymaker Polymax PLA, it has similar mechanical properties than ABS but can be printed without hazardous vapour exposition and also heated bed not required when BUILDTAK is used. 

This is the parts list of my final build:

• BeeRotor ZoeFPV 1806 2900 KV motor + 4" props
• BeeRotor 20A ESC (or similar, max. dimension: 24x13x6 mm)
• BeeRotor F3 Flicht Controller (any FC can be used with 30x30 mm hole spacing, but maybe USB port will be covered by frame)
• BeeRotor PDB V2.0
• G-Top FGPMMOPA6B 10Hz GPS Module (for lost model finding through HOTT telemetry)
• 200 mW Aomway 5.8 GHz Video TX + antenna 
• miniature transmitter RX (I use naked HOTT GR-12
• HS1177 camera
• Lipo battery - 1300 mA 4S 75C TATTU and Wellpower
• 12 mm of diameter, 5V buzzer
• led stripe

I used this printer setup for Polymax PLA:

• 3 layers all around (top/bottom and perimeter)
• 40% infill (3D honeycomb)
• 215 C print temperature
• 0,2mm layer height
• Manual Support

I wish you Happy New Year with plenty of succesful landings!!!

Regards,
Adrian

PS.: as always, use my design on your own risk!!!
If you think my work useful and would like to support the prototype building, you can donate by paypal (nhadrian@gmail.com) or any of the components listed above are wellcome.

*****UPDATE*****

A friend of mine asked me to do a variation with flat motors and 25 degrees camera angle.
I uploaded the STL files here.

Hi! After my successful first project a friend of mine asked me to modify my design for night flying with a built-in IR LED. We worked together on this way, and the result is quite promissing! Further details and test results can be found on his blog page. Check out his other DIY projects and builts too, quite impressive!!!

After initial testing I made some minor changes on the frame according to his suggestions, ie. screwed upper hull instead of magnetic fixing. The final version of the frame 3D model can be downloaded from the project GrabCAD page. 

Technical data:

• Motor to motor distance: 170 mm
• motor mount: 4 x M3 screw (on 12 and 16 mm diameter)
• frame weight: around 130g with suggested print settings (top + bottom covers)
• motor angle: 0 degree
• camera angle: 30 degrees up

Suggested FDM printer settings for Polymaker Polymax-PLA:

• 4 layers all around (top/bottom and perimeter)
• 40% infill (3D honeycomb suggested)
• 0,2mm layer height
• Support as needed
• 215C print temperature, BUILDTAK print surface.

Suggested electric components:

• BeeRotor ZoeFPV 1806 2900 KV motor + 4" prop or similar
• FVT Littlebee 20A_S ESC (or similar, max. dimension: 24x13x6 mm)
• F3 or F4Flight Controller, any FC can be used with 30,5x30,5 mm hole spacing, but maybe USB port will be covered by frame)
• PDB - optional
• 200...600 mW mini 5.8 GHz Video TX (ie. BeeRotor 25-600 mW) + antenna 
• miniature transmitter RX according to transmitter system
• Runcam OWL camera (or other with same housing)
• 12mm diameter buzzer (optional)
• led stripe (optional)
• OSLON SFH4725S IR LEDs on a 4-LED arrangement plate
• 1A LED Driver, ie. RECOM (mount in the frame is for RECOM)
• RC controlled switch for LED to prevent over heating when on the ground - optional

Please note that this is totally an experimental DIY project, try it on your own risk, I'll not take any responsibility for possible damages or other issues!!! 

If you think my work is useful and would like to support my further prototypes, you can donate by paypal (nhadrian@gmail.com) or any useful electric components are wellcome.

Happy flying, regards Adrian

Hi all.

Finally I received all parts so I assembled the first prototype of my 170 mm FPV racer design (see previous posts for details and STL files).
All-up weight excluding battery and micro GPS is finally 286g.
And HOTT telemetry totally works!!! :)

* * * * * UPDATE * * * * *

First light 3D flight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6tNE8_PvQo&t=76s

Regards

Adrian

Hi, 

after uploading my initial design, I got several feedbacks. So I tried some configurations, and finally came up with this Rev3 design. The major difference is that the video TX antenna is between camera and battery, so battery size can be incrased up to 1300mA 4S which is used in many 180 configs. The only limitation is 33mm width / 76mm length. Other electrical parts are the same. Another difference is that motor angle is 10 degrees instead of 15. 

Updated STL files are uploaded to GrabCAD.

*** UPDATE ***

I also finished the design of a flat motor position version, that means motors are flat and camera angle increased to 25 degrees. Files can be found on GrabCAD.

Also, there was a question related to ESC ventillation. If neccessary, holes can be drilled over the ESCs through the arm (since the wall thickness is about 2 mm there), but it is better to avoid them during print for best result.

*** END ***

First prototype, after acetone vapour (I hope I'll receive electrical components within 1-2 weeks too):

I also added some 10x4x1 mm neodymium magnets as a canopy lock if battery and velcro not present:

Here are the differences in cross-section with / without motor banking, and some more renders:

 Regards

Adrian

Hi, I'd like to share my latest design. After successfully finished my printer, wanted to design something fun and useful so decided on building an FPV racer which is quite popular nowadays.

Basically I was inspired by the Jellybean X nano copter, but I wanted to build a bigger one. Instead of simply magnify it, started from scratch, tried to make it strong and yet leightweight and printer friendly as possible. Here is the result. More renders and the STL files are available on my GrabCAD project page.

Technical data:

• Motor to motor distance: 170 mm
• motor mount: 4 x M3 screw (on 12 and 16 mm diameter)
• frame weight: around 100g with suggested print settings (top + bottom)
• motors angle: 15 degrees forward (also attached a frame with flat motor position - in case preferred)
• camera angle: 15 degrees up

Suggested FDM printer settings for ABS:

• 3 layers all around (top/bottom and perimeter)
• 20% infill (3D honeycomb if supported)
• 0,2mm layer height
• Support as needed

Suggested components:

• BeeRotor ZoeFPV 1806 2900 KV motor + 4" prop
• BeeRotor 20A ESC (or similar, max. dimension: 24x13x6 mm)
• BeeRotor F3 Flicht Controller (any FC can be used with 30x30 mm hole spacing, but maybe USB port will be covered by frame)
• BeeRotor PDB V2.0
• 200...600 mW mini 5.8 GHz Video TX (ie. BeeRotor 25-600 mW) + antenna 
• miniature transmitter RX
• HS1177 camera (or other with same housing)
• Lipo battery around 850 mA 4S
• maximum 12 mm of diameter buzzer (optional)
• led stripe (optional)

Here is a sample of the suggested infill structure:

Please be informed that this is a virtual model right now, I'm starting to print it soon, but still looking for some financial resources to buy the components needed along with a cheap VR goggle since such a small FPV copter is really hard to be controlled outside. If you think my work useful and would like to support the prototype building, you can donate by paypal (nhadrian@gmail.com) or any of the components listed above are wellcome.

Happy flying, regards Adrian

PS.: some more pictures:

Hi, I'd like to share my 3D printer design and building.

The idea itself came from Kossel Mini, but I completelly redesigned according to my needs and experiences.

Finally I got a functional ABS printer, with dia.220 x height 250 mm printable volume. Till now I spent on nearly 1100 USB on this project (with some support in 3D printing, I only had to pay for filaments) and linear rails would take another 500 USD (described above). So if anybody would like to reproduce my design, take this into account!!!

The complete 3D model including stl files can be downloaded from the project's GrabCAD page, along with further renders and pictures.

All electric parts incl. controller, motors, hotend, etc. were bought from Think3Dprint3D, many thanks for the continous support during building process!!!

Here is a sample video printing an extruder gear.

***Please note that this is fully a personal DIY project (I did in my quite limited spare time), without any donation or help. Because of this I can't give any support on building one or modifying plan/files for personal wishes, please don't send me PMs or email related this. ***

My last upgrade will be moving to linear rails from the roller design, 3D model already included in the GrabCAD package. Hence the price of linear rails, I'm still collecting funds for buying them. (The roller design also works great, but there is some abrasion on rollers, so I'm sure they'd need continous replacement uppon a while.)

If you find my work useful and would like to support my continous development in DIY world, you can donate by paypal (nhadrian@gmail.com), any donations are wellcome! Thanks in advance.

Best regards

Adrian

Hi, let me introduce my latest plan, a 300-sized FPV quadrocopter. My goal was to design a small 3D printed quadrocopter that can be printed on any cheaper DIY 3D printer. Additionally I wanted to simplify wiring and maintenance. So I decided to make a modular design. The hard-cased battery is fixed by small clips and can be replaced really fast. The front and rear arms are also modular, only 4 screws have to be removed before get out the arms. So for example, a complete pre-wired and assembled arm can be taken out to field as a replacement part. After a crash, can be replaced.

I tried to design the frame as closed as it can be, with maximum strength. As I said, all parts can be printed by a simple and cheap DIY printer too (the only requirement is at least 250 mm long table on printer), without support material!!! (I printed some test parts using a Makerbot, now the first complete prototype is under printing.). All parts will take around 250 ccm modell material, so will weight around 260 g in total of ABS.

Here are the most important dimensions:

Here are some cool features. First, the modular design:

Hard-cased battery (up to 114 x 38 x 24,2 mm battery size):

Custom PCB for RCTimer ESCs:

2 types of different Mobius vibration dampened mounts, can be adjusted in two positions (up by 10 degrees or level):

Any 1806 sized motors can be used (like DYS 1806), with props up to 6":

I designed a vibration dampened flight controller mounting too, for 30x30 hole positions:

Separated space for VTX, to help heat dissipation:

These parts are required for building:

• 2 pair of green Multiplex connectors (6-pin)
• 1 pair of XT60 connector (and additionally as much as much battery case needed)
• 8 to 22 mm long DIN 7981 2,2 DIA plastic screws (or similar type)
• 8 pcs of small blue HK dampene

Additional parts list:

• FLight controller with 30x30 hole spacing (for example VR micro brain?! :) )
• Power distribution board with 30x30 hole positions (I suggest the HK one, with built-in BEC and V-I measurements)
• 4 pcs of ESC (I suggest RCTimer Argonaut 20A, my custom PDB is designed for them)
• 4 pcs of props, up to 6"
• small RC receiver
• Mobius HD (or similar sized HD camera)
• Video TX (I'll use DAL 600)
• some M3 plastic screws, spacers, nuts
• mini Telemetry module (optional)
• mini OSD (optional)
• GPS receiver with 30x30 hole spacing (optional)

I suppose the AUW will be around 650 g which is, I think, quite acceptable for this size.

Since I spent many-many hours on design and parts testing, I can't share STL files for free, I hope everybody undestands my position. I even have to collect money on additional electronics for my prototype too (I'll post pictures once I finnished printing, assembly)...
So finally I decided to sell the complete STL package for 39 USD. Payment can be done by Paypal, email me for details (nhadrian@gmail.com)! The other reason is that I never get any donation related my work...

*** CAUTION - 1***
Please note that this is a prototype project not a final market product.
I'll not take care of any damages caused by faulty assembly or inproper printing result.
I'll not guarantee successful printing, since it depends on printer setup, used technology, etc...

*** CAUTION - 2***
Please note that I made the design regarding my current needs. I won't modify any of them for further requests (ie. other type of camera, FC, etc.) unless you pay my efforts, since I'm doing this in my limited spare time. 

***CAUTION - 3***
And, as always, use it on your own risk!!!

Thanks for understanding...!

I hope you like my design, Best Regards

Nhadrian

PS.: special thanks to Sys-ak for his support in this project!

Hi, let me introduce my APM mode switch with LCD display.
The basic idea is from Stefan Gofferje's project, thanks on him for PPM stream code part!!!

My idea was to make something more good-looking thing for my transmitter and get rid of annoying switch mixes. My APM mode switch uses an Arduino as main processor. Technically, Arduino generates a PPM stream for the RC transmitter, this can be connected through the trainer port. (Check out your transmitters manual for proper trainer port setup). The desired channel in PPM8 stream can be configured in the sketch (default is ch5). 

*** Please note that LCD display will display the actual mode regarding PWM value! ***
***The actual mode in the APM can be different, since there is not any telemetry ***
***feedback in this switch! Take care of proper APM setup!!! ***
***Please double check mode matches on the ground before first take-off!!!***

Here is the parts list:

• Arduino Nano
• 2x16 LCD screen (HD44780 compatible)
• 6 pcs of pushbutton (I'm using these, I think they are quite conventional, for 7mm dia holes)
• 5V buzzer, max. 40mA (optional)
• 10k pot (optional)
• 3D printed body
• upper and lower plates milled from any 1,5 mm GF or CF plate

And this is the connection diagram:

***UPDATE***

***Don't use Arduino Nano's built-in 5V power source because overheating can cause instability!***
***Use a small DC-DC converter instead***
(or supply LCD from another 5V power source)

I suggest to solder the Arduino to the LCD, D2...D5 and D12 are on the same place as in the LCD screen:

Here is the working LCD:

The LCD is mounted inside the body with screws:

The neccessary 3D files can be downloaded from the project's GrabCAD page.
And this is the sketch: APM_mode_switch_NHA_v2_0.ino
Here is a Sample of my screen's diyplay states.

Mode names and sign letters can be edited in this part of the sketch:

I can't upload any images about a completelly assembled switch since I'll use it together with my portable ground station, so I designed a unique case that fits to my GS (so guys, the 3D model above is designed only for you... :) ):

I hope you'll enjoy, and of course,

***USE IT ON YOUR OWN RISK***
***I'll not take care of any damages caused by malfunction or faulty assembly***

Regards,
Adrian

Hi, this is an addition to my prevous blog post.

I consider the rear wing spar a bit "weak" especially when using the wing extenders too. So I modified the wooden parts, I cut off the rear upper parts and replaced by GF ones with bigger (6mm ID) holes. Since the hole size in the foam fuselage is 6 mm originally, a 6mm OD x 4 mm ID carbon pipe can be glued in and the original 4 mm reqar spar can be plugged in. I also replaced the txo joining parts by GF ones.

CAD files and cutting plan can be downloaded from my Grabcad Project page. When doing cuts and glues of the replacement parts, be sure the new part's hole center matches the wooden one!!! Measure things extremely carefully and at least twice!!!

As a comparison, here is the modified and the original solution on rendered images:

Best regards

Adrian

Hi, today I decided to share all my upgrades I designed and built for my Talon.
Since attachable picture number is limited here, detailed photos and more renderings can be fount on the project GrabCAD page, together with the neccessary .STL files and .DXF files for parts. These upgrades doesn't need difficult modifications on the Talon fuselage, all of them fits to the foam parts.

Please don't forget, if you like my work, you can donate me with some bucks!!! ***THANKS IN ADVANCE***

1) GimBALL adaptation for talon.

• you will need 2 mm GF (aka. glass fiber sheet like G10) plates,
• some 3D printed parts
• 4 pieces of 10 mm long M3 rubber shock absorbers (the length is important to be 10 mm, if you have smaller blocks, use some spacers),
• on pitch: HK-2206-140KV,
• on roll: RCTimer 2212,
• you have to buy a big sized motor mount cross or make one from aluminium or GF plate

2) Langing gear

• This is a reinforcement for the fuselage to stable, rigid landing gear solution. You will need 2 mm GF sheets,
• 5 pcs of MPJet Mounting Nuts (MPJ1005 code)

3) Camera mount

• This is a roll-stabilized camera mount I designed for my Canon IXUS 100 camera. You will need 1,5 mm and 2 mm GF sheets,
• a 3D printed camera lock
• 5-6 mm thick silicon foam for shock absorbing
• 2 pcs of d5xD11xw5 flanged bearing
• a Turnigy TGY-306 (or same sized) servo
• some screws, linkage rod, linkage ball

4) Misc. parts

• I designed a small 3D printed pitot tube holder for the original 3DR pitot tube. The two parts needs to be glued together.
• Also I replaced the wooden tail skid to a 2 mm GF part, for longer life.

I hope you enjoy them, I wish you happy and successful building!

*** CAUTION - 1*** Please note that I spent on many hours on designing and building them, regarding my current needs. I won't modify any of them for further requests (ie. other type of camera) unless you pay my efforts, since I'm doing this in my limited spare time. Thanks for understanding...!

*** CAUTION - 2***  Please note that I designed all 3D printed parts to be printable on a Stratasys FDM printer, which uses support material system too. I didn't tested the printability on a cheaper DIY printer family without support material, maybe parts can be printed on them too, maybe not... ***

Best regards

Adrian

Hi,

I continue my blog with the integration of GimBALL into the nose of an X-UAV Talon.
Because of complexity and available space in the Talon's nose, I decided to build it with 2-axis stabilized setup.

I hope I'll be able to test it in the air soon, and will share some test videos. Till then, here are some sample images about the current state:

Regarding STL files, finally I decided to share them at GrabCad.
If you like my work, you can donate me with some bucks too!!!

Please note that this is an experimental work, and maybe need some modifications, adjustments to successful operation. Use my files on your own risk!!!

Here are the suggested motor types again:

• on pitch: HK-2206-140KV
• on roll: RCTimer 2212
• regarding yaw, my first thought was RCTimer 2804 hollow shaft, but initial testing shows that it is not strong enough. So I made a modified arm with flat top too (rev2 files), so much more big motors can also be used

Please note also that I'll not modify GimBALL for any other cameras than MobiusHD because design process needs a lot of time and I'm doing DIY things in my limited spare time. Sorry HERO users. Please do not ask me, I'll not reply to these. Thanks for understanding!

Next time I'll show you some sample videos! (PART3). Stay tuned!!!

Hi again,

Hereby I'd like to continue my project. As I said earlier, all parts were printed using a Stratasys 3D printer, which uses FDM technology and support material too. These were the parts coming from the printer:

I made a small PCB for the modified USB plug:

Assembly of the arms:

USB plug assembled - plug-n-play solution for Mobius!

And finally some fully assembled shots. Now I'm waiting for the yaw motor and the controller to be delivered. After that I'll start testing in PART3. So stay tuned!!!

Best regards

Adrian

Hi guys, 

let me introduce my latest project, a 3D printed gimbal for MobiusHD camera. I call it GimBALL regarding of it's shape...

My goal was to make a closed, aerodynamic shaped gimbal, which can be used in the front of a plane (ie. X-UAV Talon), up to 100 km/h airspeed. So I tried to make thisthing  as aerodynamic as it can be. For drive I choosed three size of motors, according to the weight they have to rotate.

The smallest is for pitch axis, a HK 2206-140KV,  RCTimer 2212 is on roll and RCTimer 2804 hollow shaft is on yaw axis. I'll use a basecam 8bit 3-axis controller placed inside my plane's fuselage.

For easy operation and FPV purposes, I made a small PCB from an USB plug which will be fixed inside the GimBALL. So Mobius have to be plugged in, that's all. There is a hole for easy SD-card removing and also there are holes for buttons and LED.

I checked the main parts with FEM analysis to be sure they are optimized for external loads (parts weight and wind force):

All parts will be printed using a Stratasys 3D-printer (using FDM technology). Total weight including MobiusHD and motors, screws will be around 280 g (+-15g). 

Here are some renders about details:

Next step will be the parts producing and assembly (PART2) and final testing (PART3). So stay tuned!!!

Regards

Adrian

PS.: I'm not planning to produce this GimBALL but if anybody interrested in start producing, just write me an email (nhadrian@gmail.com), since I'm willing to sell 3D models - basically trade for smaller parts that are useful for my projects!!! But I don't have any time to produce parts and take support for customers, etc ... so please don't ask me how much will be a ready- to -use GimBALL...Thank you for your understanding!!!

Hi,

i'd like to share my latest development, this is for testing further AntennaTracker code developments.

The current part is an upgrade to my Portable Groundstation, using the initial idea of Ardupilot Antennatracker.

I designed a mechanics for 3D FDM printing. I use Hitec HS5065MG for pitch and MKS DS95i with external precision potmeter.

The total pitch range is 90  degrees, yaw is 380 degrees.

i'll share some sample video soon.

Regards, Adrian

Hi,

some days ago a new folder appeared in DIYDrones ArduPilot repository:

https://github.com/diydrones/ardupilot/tree/master/AntennaTracker

After reading the notes, I shouted up! HORRAY! That's what I'm exactly looking for to be used in my mobile Ground station, since this code uses the built-in sensors for proper positioning too!

So I immediatelly wired up a small test platform for initial testing, with the using of:

• APM 2.6
• 2 servos
• 868 Telemetry module
• GPS receiver
• 4s NiMh AA battery
• some masking tape… :):)

Here is the result (first take-off!!!):

http://youtu.be/qiuzMma1RE4

Please note that APM has terrible magnetic interference caused by cheap metal-gear servo (servo ofsets over 400 after calibration!!!), and also not fine-tuned. But still, can do the job!!! And also programmable through telemetry module!

So I'm going to design a small 3D printed tracker block at the top of my previously built mobile ground station, covered with a plastic dome, and using of a mini APM and flat patch antenna.

Just keep on good work, DIYDrones ArduPilot dev TEAM!!!

Best regards

Adrian

Hi, let me introduce my new FPV flying wing, the modded EasyWing.

The original EasyWing was designed by JAN-CHE in Hungary (link to JCP webshop), also he has been cutted all the EPP parts for me. Many thanks on his support!!!

So I decided to design a new center part, I started the design in 3D (as I use to do...). First I used vertical fins at the wing ends (like in original EasyWing), but later seemed to be a bit unstable in yaw direction. So I replaced them closer to the center line, and they are facing outward by 1-1 degree (like in the Funjet). To avoid high level of turbulence at the wing tips, I designed small winglets too. They are working great. Here is the final 3D model, before building. Quite similar, isn't it?

My goal was to build a small-enough plane for FPV purposes, and make it as efficient as it can be. All wooden parts are laser-cutted. To avoid damages at the wing front edge, I covered them with 80g glass-fiber sheet (used pvc vinyl for shiny surface finish):

Here is the complete parts list:

• APM 2.6 autopilot + airspeed sensor + battery monitor + MinimOSD + Crius CN-06 GPS
• FrSky TFR-4 FASST compatible receiver in PPM mode
• 720 TVL 30x30 panel camera
• 720p keychain camera (W/O housing)
• immersion 600mW 5.8 GHz video TX
• Turnigy TGY-113MG wing servos
• Hitec HS-5065 servo on camera moving
• 3DR 868 MHz telemetry module
• Turnigy SK3 2826 1240KV motor + Graupner 8x6 folding prop + 18A ESC
• 2200 mA 3S Turnigy A-SPEC

More technical datas:

• AUW: 860 g
• Wingspan: 1050 mm without winglets, 1170 mm with winglets
• Total flight time: 20-25 min
• most efficient: 45-50 km/h (4-5A total current)
• max. speed: 70km/h (limited by ArduPlane)
• stall speed: around 35 km/h

Here is a small test-flight video. (keychain camera's lens still needs to be fine adjusted, so the colors…)

Best regards

Adrian

ps.: Some more details:

- UPDATE -

After some minor updates and changes, I started my Indiegogo campaign.

Regards, Adrian

- UPDATE -

Hi, it's me again from Hungary. Let me show my next design, a 480 sizde heli built for FPV and aerial shooting.

First of all, let me tell the origin of my idea. I saw a video from 2012 about a 480 size T-rex sport, with 32 minutes of flight time!!! Although he used 8000 mA with ~1500g AUW, I think with the same weight and about 6000mA battery 20 minutes could be reached.

So I started to design a custom heli based on T-rex 450 PRO parts, pixhawk controller and Mobius HD camera with 3-axis gimbal. Since vibration is quite a big problem of helis, I separated the frame into two main parts and connected them with rubber dampers. I hope high amplitude low frequency vibrations can be eliminated from the lower frame part:

To avoid vibrations from tail drive, I decided to use Direct Tail Drive instead of belt or shaft (thanks to Robert Lefebvre's idea), I found a suitable Hacker motor.

For materials I'd like to use 1,5 mm G10 for frame parts, 2,0 mm G10 for gimbal holder plate and 2,5 mm G10 sheet for battery tray. Gimbal parts will be 3D printed. Aluminium parts will be CNC machined.

Now the 3D model and the part designs are ~90% ready, for further optimisation on parts I will need the electrical components, motors, rotor parts, etc. to colledt dimension datas andexact weights. Now this modell takes ~1550 g of AUW, I think 50-60 g could be saved with parts optimization. Solidworks can also calculate the CG, now it looks like it is OK. But CG will be tuneable with battery position too.

Since this heli will take a lot of money, I'm looking for sponsors because I don't have enough spare money to build this project. If can offer the complete 3D solidworks model and 2D drawing of all custom parts for producing of course. (BTW I don't want to sell this heli as a kit or in any other way, I don't have enough time and energy to give support for customers, produce parts, etc. I can't quarantee the success, but at least I hope... :) )

So if you like my design and  would donate me you can do it by Paypal or you can send me any of the missing parts instead. Just connect me by e-mail (nhadrian @ gmail.com) for further informations.

Here is a continously updated parts list. The red colour shows that the part is still missing, the green means I already have it. Further renders and pictures will be shared in this folder continously.

Many thanks in advance.

Best regards

Adrian