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THE TRUTH ABOUT THE ITG3200

3689399270?profile=originalWell, to work in a spin stabilized mode, Marcy 2 would have to spin a
lot faster than a 3 channel coaxial copter can.  Without spin
stabilization, a $40 Syma S107 or a $25 Sky Invader didn't matter
because either way, we needed another gyro to know heading.  A 150
second flight time doesn't demand a very accurate gyro.

Mass produced Marcy 2's would use the cheapest single axis gyro
available, but suddenly a static proof bag of new gyros happened to
fall off a truck.  It's the ITG3200, another crazy small 0.5mm Invensense QFN. 

Decided to go ahead with it, to evaluate it for another 3 DOF IMU.  Have 5 years made

any difference with Invense gyros?

 

3689399198?profile=original

 

 

Unfortunately, it immediately showed a
large dead band, a convenient solution to the same old gremlin

of gyro 0 offsets drifting.  It automatically 0 centers itself, but it has to
rotate a large, minimum amount to detect anything.  You can rotate it
slowly enough, handheld, to go 90 deg without sensing anything.

It's intended for hand held motion sensing & gesture user interfaces,
not a heading hold gyro.  The deadband gets a lot

bigger as the lowpass bandwidth gets lower.

Direct analog pins would make this chip a lot more useful, but obviously
doing the samping on the die eliminated a lot of parts
that would be required for analog pins.

 

 

Through the IDG300, ADXRS150, LISY300, & ITG3200, gyros have gotten cheaper, but

they still use the same mechanism they did 5 years ago.  They can stack multiple gyros,

sample more bits, but the mechanism hasn't gotten any better.

 

 

UPDATE:


3689399348?profile=original

It wasn't a deadband as much as a mismatch between the lower & upper 8 bits.  It took a lot of rotation to get above 0.  Then the result was smooth from 0 - 255.  Then, it took a lot of rotation to get above 255.

 

It turned out the chip doesn't work in I2C burst mode.  You have to read the analog results 1 byte at a time.

 

 

 

MARCY 1

Read over the monocopter paper again, 2 years later, & figured out 3
factors affecting stability:

Wing pressure needs to go through the CG of the balance beam.

Coning angle needs to be minimal.

Balance beam needs maximum inertia.

The main advantage of a monocopter is having the most wing in the
fastest air for the least weight, but this results in a high coning
angle.  An ideal monocopter would have to be much bigger, have an IMU &
use servos for active stabilization.  The ideal, small vehicle is better
off eating the cost of a 2nd wing.

3689399361?profile=original

3689399284?profile=original

So the 2 flexing wings ended up pressing the fuselage onto the takeoff
rod & jamming it down.  Another problem was twisting of the angle of
attack to a level position.

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3689399430?profile=original

It didn't have these problems in monocopter form, but we've also reduced
the wingspan & increased the RPM.

There's still hope for the lighter frame, if the design works & frees up
enough money for CF.  Time to dig out a tried & true brick frame.  It
was abandonned when we figured the monocopter was more optimum, but the
rigidity of balsa is really needed.

 

 

3689399455?profile=original

 

 

 

That definitely seemed to be more stable than the monocopter, but led us back to the actuator problem.

 

 

 

 

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Oklahoma UAV Airshow

First Annual

UAV Invitational Airshow and Speedfest

Saturday April 30, 2011 (Rain Date, Saturday May 14, 2011)  Open to the public

Hosted By:  Oklahoma State University, School of Mechanical and Aerospace Engineering
                       University Multispectral Laboratories
                       NASA Oklahoma Space Grant Consortium
                       Stillwater RC Fliers

 

Flight Events:
  • Pylon race and top-speed contest between OSU Aerospace Design teams
    • OSU Aerospace Design Teams will design, build, and compete with composite aircraft optimized for both speed in a closed pylon course, and top straight-line speed.
    • Airplanes are expected to achieve top speeds in excess of 150 mph
  • 40% Electric Extra flight demonstration.  Pilot:  Dan Bierly
  • Helicopter Aerobatic flight demonstration.  Pilot:  Ryan Witchey
  • Giant Scale Warbird flight demonstration.  Pilot: Jim Ellis
  • Turbine aircraft flight demonstration  Pilot: Dave Kester
  • Turbine aircraft flight demonstration  Pilot: Don Perry
  • Fly-By-Video Flight demonstration  Pilot Paul Reinman
  • BASSETT OSU Research UAV flight
  • Long-Endurance UAV Pterosoar demonstration flight
  • Autopilot auto-land demonstration
  • Open flight times for invitational pilots

Static Displays:
  • UML Military Tigershark UAV
  • Dragonfly record breaking electric UAV
  • OSU Research UAVs

Schedule:
  • Under development.  Expect changes.  Tentatively: gates open at 9AM, Flight Demonstrations, and competition run from 10-2.  Competition and open invitational flying continue until 5pm.  Gates close at 6pm.
Source:  http://aerodesign.okstate.edu/events/Speedfest1/UAFSspeedfest1.html
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_4071776.jpg

Since the current ArduPirates code (as you all probably know) supports LEDs not only as a navigation aid, but as a status indicator as well, and since i had nothing better to do while i was waiting for a replacement ESC (one of the four i got turned out to be faulty) i've decided to install them in the jDrones' motor mounts.

Now, i could've just pulled two wires from each motor mount, crimp some female connectors to them and plug them in the OUT4-OUT7 ports, but i thought that's a rather inelegant solution, because:
a) i didn't want to use up the (precious) PWM outputs,
b) according to what i've read, A8, A10, A12 and A14 were to be dedicated as LED ports in the future anyways, and
c) i wanted something neater and easier to plug/unplug every time i remove the APM from the frame.

So here's what i came up with...
Since i couldn't solder pins to the topside of the Oilpan, i've soldered a ribbon cable to A8, A10, A12, A14 and the nearby GND:

_4041742.jpg

I've tacked the ribbon to the side of the Oilpan's headers with the same gel tape i've used to dampen the motor vibrations, as stress relief. I've cut a female header to size (it was an 8-pin one, i think), soldered the ribbon to its pins, heat-shrink wrapped the individual pins:

_4041737.jpg

Some more heat shrink tubing and... voila! A nice custom 5-pin female connector:

_4041739.jpg
_4041744.jpg

Next came the male side. Using pin headers, of course.

I've initially intended to connect the LEDs directly to GPIO ports. Atmega 1280 limits the current per pin to 40mA and the LEDs i've been using can withstand that just fine (they are rated for 20mA, but don't heat up much at 40mA and the LED emitter die seems stable enough), plus, i've been driving things at max current from Arduino pins numerous times without any repercussions, however...

1) I'm not prepared to risk having electronics that drive a 1+ kg object containing fast-spinning parts burn out for a few brighter blinkenlichts,
2) The LEDs will probably last longer at 20mA and
3) 4x40 mA = 160 mA, while the maximum an Atmega 1280 can source at any given time is 200 mA - not much headroom left, right?

After a bit of rummaging through my drawers, i found a bunch of tiny 22 Ohm metal film resistors, which, as it turns out, results in almost exactly 20mA going through the LED in series. Much better. I've soldered them directly to the pin header:

_4041747.jpg
... soldered an 8 pin ribbon cable to that (with the 4 LED cathode wires soldered together to the last pin) and wrapped it all:

_4041749.jpg

... then put some heat-shrink tubing on that and - there we go, a male connector done:

_4041754.jpg

The ribbon cable splits into 4 two-wire cables that go through the arms (alongside the motor wires) and end in this:

_4041751.jpg
It's a good idea to key the connectors somehow. Not because you can fry anything (you can't in this particular case) but because it saves you the joy of assembling the whole quad and then realising you plugged the LEDs in wrong. So, sharpie:

_4041755.jpg

Good idea to key the other side too. Because, if you're like me, you'll inevitably end up having the cable hooked up the exact opposite way around from the one you've marked, once you build the frame.
With hardware side fixed, time to configure the software. The relevant entries are located in Config.h and Arducopter.h.First, in Config.h, the line:#define IsAM // Do we have motormount LEDs. AM = Atraction Mode... needs to be uncommented.In Arducopter.h, the relevant parts begin around line 100, and should look like this:/*#define FR_LED 3 // Mega PE4 pin, OUT7#define RE_LED 2 // Mega PE5 pin, OUT6#define RI_LED 7 // Mega PH4 pin, OUT5#define LE_LED 8 // Mega PH5 pin, OUT4*/#define FR_LED AN10 // Mega PE4 pin, OUT7#define RE_LED AN8 // Mega PE5 pin, OUT6#define RI_LED AN12 // Mega PH4 pin, OUT5#define LE_LED AN14 // Mega PH5 pin, OUT4You might notice i've got the AN8-AN14 ports out of order here. It's because i've (stupidly) wired them in reverse, compared to how they are by default in the current ArduPirates code.Coming up next: What *not* to do when assembling the frame.
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UPDATE:  The article is now available online at www.memagazine.org.  Happy reading!

 

 

 

If any of you are members of ASME, you will find that the April 2011 (Vol. 133, No. 4) edition of Mechanical Engineering Magazine has the feature article "Drones for Peace: Working in Teams to Fight Fires or Find Lost Children."  (www.memagazine.org)

 

3689396880?profile=originalThe article is written by two PhD candidates at UC Berkeley (Brandon Basso and Joshua Love), as well as the James Marshall Wells Professor of Mechanical Engineering at same institution (J. Karl Hedrick).  All three of the authors focus on drones as their field of research, and the article reflects this.

 

From the article: With UAVs becoming both cheap and easy to build, the field's leading edge is now systems - squadrons of two or five or ten aircraft, collaborating to achieve a common goal.  The ambition is to use teams of flying robots to develop vision-based maps of large areas, track moving objects, fuse information from multiple aircraft and multiple sensors, and perform high-level task planning.

 

It's a fascinating read, and if your local library (or M.E.) has a subscription I highly recommend you check this one out!  If you cannot lay hands on the hard copy, the ME Magazine website may carry the feature article online (it has yet to be updated to the April 2011 edition, as of this posting).

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Moderator

Wifi Video link

I'm testing a wireless wifi IP camera to see if it's possible to integrate in my UAV system.

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3689399555?profile=original


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes! I know analogue Wireless video is much easier and cheaper, but I think it's time to see if it's possible to make a long range WiFi video link "Secure".

 

For my test I will use a standard wireless D-link IP camera Model DCD-2121 and a Wireless Router D-Link DIR-635

The camera got standard 100mW output and I will try boost this with a WiFi Booster 2W. (not legal I know).

 

3689399509?profile=originalCheap 2W 2.4 Booster from Ebay.

 

3689399499?profile=original3689399522?profile=original3689399604?profile=original3689399543?profile=original

1. Test 640 x 480 pixel and 320 x 240 pixel 30 fps .

Without Booster and with standard Antenna on both Tx & Rx.

Receiver inside living room - going 100M away outside. Able to get 400 Kbps on 100 M range.

 

2. Test 640 x 480 pixel and 320 x 240 pixel 30 fps

With Booster and standard antenna on both Tx & Rx

Receiver inside living room - going 100M away outside. Able to get 4000 Kbps on 100 M range.

 

 

 

No HD quality I know I don't need it. The test was made with 20 other Wireless nets very near and with poor antenna both Tx and Rx.

 

Rx should have Patch and/or Yagi antenna.

 

Results: Booster works great to give better Broadband.

 

I'm waiting for this Wireless IP video server to arrive (Ebay). With this I can use other video camera + OSD + more suitable for fuselage.

170$ IP video server.

3689399625?profile=original
Next test will be made in open field with Yagi and Patch antenna.

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3D Robotics

3689399163?profile=original

[UPDATE: I posted the wrong version of the code before. If you downloaded it, please download it again and replace it with the new code. Servo output is fixed]

 

I've posted a new version of the APM 2.0 beta (2.012), which includes many bug fixes and a few new features:

 

--Airspeed sensor (shown) is now autodetected if present. It's no longer necessary to set this in the APM_Config.h file. Since the magnetometer and GPS sensors are also now autodetected, that means that for most users there is no reason to have to fiddle with configuration files at all.

 

--Xbee transmissions are now improved, as are MAVLink comms. Waypoint writing and reading should now be more reliable.

 

--The Mission Planner has been updated and improved (adds in-flight action commands and ability to restart mission)

 

--Update of the Happy Killmore GCS, which also improves in-flight commands.

 

Known issues in this build:

 

--Some in-flight mission commands are not yet implemented

--Restart mission may not work

--MediaTek lock may not be detected after a cold start. Reset the board to do a warm start, after which lock should be fine.

 

We're planning on keeping APM in beta until after the Sparkfun AVC competition later this month, which should be a good test and opportunity to really wring it out. If all goes well, we expect to release APM 2.0 as final code around the end of the month.

 

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Moderator

RMB-CM12111_1_b.jpg?width=350

Other than "you get what you paid for" Anyone have a reason Not to buy this pair? 

My personal goal would be to use it as a learning tool, prepairing for adding telemetry to my projects. But it should be usefull too.  Secondary use in some project around the house, ie halloween automation, laser guided water splasher (anti-cat crap in the yard device currently in planning stage) ect.

 

Here's the Junk:

This package consists of two mini half-duplex wireless data transceiver modules and each such module is highly integrated with an ultra speed MCU and a powerful RF chip. With the introduction of the innovative yet higly-efficient encoding method, its anti-interference ability and sensitivity are significantly improved. Features like various channel options, ultra long transmission distance (1000 meters) or abundant interfaces (UART/TTL, RS-485 & RS-232) helps make the transmission of data of any size possible and eliminate the needs of writing transmission program and running complicated settings. A software application ("RF-Magic") is offered for free so that users can modify the settings of the module. Besides, its slim size and wide power supply range makes itself the most popular selection of many applications in different fields.

Features:

  • Ultra long transmission distance: 800-1000 meters @1200bps
  • Working frequency: 431-478Mhz (1KHz step)
  • +3.3-5.5V wide power supply range
  • -112dBm(9600bps) high sensitivity
  • Over 100 channels
  • GFSK modulation
  • Highly efficient cyclic interleaving error correction encoding
  • Flexible software programme option settings
  • Selectable RFID index
  • UART/TTL, RS-485 & RS-232
  • Large data buffer: 512bytes
  • Suitable for massive data transfer
  • Built-in watchdog ensures long-term operation
  • Length of antenna: 104.32mm

Product Link:

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Moderator

3689399138?profile=originalTry to use your Iphone on this Magic Box , download i-nigma app point with your camera the MP32 box and yo can see that we put a lot of getting started info on MP32 Magic Box :)

Suggestions ;)

To Support new customers on MultiPilot32 migration FoxTeam open a Learning Center , Two Webinar at the month and Past event online here : http://www.virtualrobotix.com/page/webcast-1 Here you can meet developer and advanced user to obtain reply to your main question . Online last meeting where we present last revision of Virtual Robotix Ide .

Best

Roberto

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Moderator

Repairing an AeroQuad Motor Mount

I attended the Bay Area meetup last weekend.  One interesting thing that Chris Anderson mentioned was his philosophy that it's often more important to make things that are easy to repair than it is to make things that can't break.

 

I almost immediately had an object lesson in this by crashing my quad.  Two props were broken, so I put it in the car to take care of later. When I got it home, I noticed that one of  the motor mounts was bent to an almost 45 degree angle.  Fixing it took less than a minute.  Thanks AeroQuad!

 

 

http://eastbay-rc.blogspot.com/2011/04/repairing-aeroquad-motor-mount.html

 

 

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3D Robotics

Official Open Hardware logo selected

3689399180?profile=originalAfter a great crowdsourcing and voting process, the official Open Hardware logo has been selected and is at right. You can read about it here. Open Hardware (aka Open Source Hardware) is a fast-growing movement, of which DIY Drones is a big part, and the process of defining it and setting norms and standards will help it mature the way Open Source Software has. A logo is just another step in this important process, so I'm delighted to see this. Plus I think it looks great!
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Moderator

3689399129?profile=original

Dear Friends,

I'm happy to inform you that i have upload the VRIDE 0.0.3 Alpha Revision.

Inside this early version of our ide i put some example about the opportunity to use on MP32 a lot of Analog and digital sensor.

In this thread is possible to discuss about the experience on sensor , driver implementation , code example , performances ecc.

 

In the VRIDE 0.0.3

Actually 07-03-11 is available the support to :

HMC5843 : I2c Magnetometer.

BMP085 : I2c Barometer.

Mediatek GPS prtocol NMEA e MTK16 : High performances GPS 10 HZ

SPI ADC Converter connect to 3 axis Analog Gyro and 3 axis Analog Accelerometer.

Standard MP32 ADC converter : High Resolution 12 bit ADC Converter.

I'm working on driver of sonar and IR Sensor and on WMP+ and NK Gyro and Accelerometer Wii sensor.

 

About this task support from community is welcome.

 

This evening we are online at 22:30 CET to discuss about the news about MP32  , New Ide/library available  and New Firmware. We're working on ArduPiratesNG32 ,too :)

 

http://www.virtualrobotix.com/events/webcast-on-multipilot32

 

Official thread :http://www.virtualrobotix.com/forum/topics/sensors-labs-a-discussion

 

Best

Redfox74

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Hiya, folks!
First of all, if you're sick and tired of looking at Arducopter official frame builds, you might decide to skip the whole post right about now ;)

Yes, it really is going to be just another ArduCopter build (my first quad, actually), but i hope people doing the same can learn from some of my mistakes and, perhaps, avoid them. So let's get on with the show, shall we...

Since i've been having some pretty nasty vibration issues with a traditional heli i've been messing with for the past 3-4 years, i felt somewhat queasy about just straight on mounting the motors to the holders. I've originally intended to pad both contact planes of the arms with foam, but decided i'm being too OCD about it and did just this:

_4021726.jpg

_4021728.jpg

_4021729.jpg

It looks like (and is actually billed as) a two-sided sticky tape, but is really a transparent gel used for mounting things on uneven surfaces (i.e. a mailbox to a wall). Like a permanently non-setting hotglue that's not really hot.
Okay, you got me, it's really nothing like hotglue.

The thinner variants usually have higher strength (20kg/m), while the thicker one (1mm) i've used has lower (10kg/m). But since i'm not actually using it to bear any weight, thickness is all i'm interested in.
Here's what it looks like from the other side:

_4021731.jpg

How well does it work?
From my initial tests - surprisingly well. It filters the high frequency buzzzzz vibe from the engines pretty nicely. Without it, you could clearly feel it at the end of the arms. With it, it's nearly all gone, except at lowest RPMs. I'm now considering padding the screw holes with it as well (punching through it with a screw, like through a washer).


Coming up next: devising a semi-permanent, practical way to hook up motor mount LEDs to the A8-A14 ports of the IMU shield.
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KK multicopter

Hi, I've made a Quad X copter using KK Multicopter blue board v4.5 (ofcourse I waited for 15 days to receive the board after placing the order). But mine is not going up. Its rotating on the ground. I don't what the problem is.... I've tried and tweaked as much as I can do by referring many sites. Also build 4 frames. But in vain. Its been two weeks I'm trying to make it fly.

 

I've used 

1450kv outrunner brushless motors

12A BEC Esc

3S 25C 2500mAh 11.1v battery

(Above all Powerhd company)

 

kk multicopter blue board v4.5

Futaba 6 channel T6EXA Tx

Futaba 7 Channel Rx at 72 Mhz

 

Everything seems to be fine. The board is getting armed and all the controls are working fine.

The weight is under 900g.

 

Trying to figure out what happened since 1 week.

You can check this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQiBCYOLdk4 

I'll be more than happy if some one could help me on this ASAP.

 

 

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3689398972?profile=originalHi guys, just letting you know that the ArduPilot Mega v1.4 with the ATmega2560 will be available at the DIY Drones store starting Friday, April 8. Here's the product page: http://store.diydrones.com/product_p/br-ardupilot-01.htm

 

Here's what will be changing in the store/products:

- ArduPilot Mega 2560 supersedes ArduPilot Mega 1280.

- The only difference between the two boards is that the new board uses the Atmega2560 microprocessor, while the old one uses the Atmega1280. The 2560 has twice as much flash memory (256K, vs 128K, hence their names). That extra memory is not currently used by any DIY Drones software, but is available for possible future code and expansion.

- The main reason for the change to the Atmega2560 is to sync up with the Arduino roadmap, which transitioned from the Arduino Mega (1280) top the Arduino Mega2560 earlier this year. This will not only ensure that our boards are compatible with the latest Arduino code, but also ensure that we will be able to source components reliably in the future.

- The 1280 version will still be available from us for a while. SparkFun will also continue selling the 1280 version.

- The "Full ArduPilot Mega kit" will now only be available with the ArduPilot Mega 2560.

 

The 2560 board will be required for APM 2.0 (not true, I should have triple checked this first), so the release of this board was timed to coincide with the new APM code getting close to Release Candidate status. Keep in mind that the 1280 version is still required for the ArduCopter and ArduPirates code!

 

Compatibility table:

 

Hardware:

--All DIY Drones hardware (shields, sensors, etc) work indentically with both boards

 

Software:

--APM 2.0 code and beyond: Supports both APM2560 and APM1280 boards

--ArduCopter 2.0 (aka ArduCopterMega, ACM) and beyond: Supports both APM2560 and APM1280 boards

--Future DIY Drones code (ArduRover, boats, etc): Supports both APM2560 and APM1280 boards

--APM 1.02: Requires APM1280

--ArduCopter RC2: Requires APM1280

--ArduPirates 1.6: Requires APM1280


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