"The only current sensors I've found accurate are the Mauch Electronics. If you want a high-quality, reasonably-priced sensor/UBEC, I'd highly recommend them."
"Have a look on ebay for a 'screen tool'. They are a plastic tool which cost a few bucks and a perfect size to get under the connector and lift it safely.
"An investment of a couple of dollars from Amazon or Ebay will gain you what's known as a 'pry tool' used in mobile phone repair. Just google 'mobile pry tool' and you'll find plenty of examples. They look like this:
"70% throttle to maintain a steady hover is incredibly underpowered. Something's clearly wrong. If you're confident that there's nothing wrong with the 'copter, have you tried a different LIPO?"
"You shouldn't need to touch those when starting out.
The tunable parameters for flight are on the "Extended Tuning" tab. Their default value should get you a reasonably stable take off. You may need to slightly tweak to keep it stable, but it…"
"It's really strange that it happens immediately for you but not for 3DR when they tested.
Out of interest, did you ship the LIPO with the Pixhawk/motor/ESC? I'm wondering if there's some strange voltage sag that happens when you flatten the…"
"It certainly sounds like a Sync issue to me. EG: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pBdDMxWsgs
You absolutely should have signal and ground wires attached to your APM/Pixhawk.. Leave any BEC power disabled until you've sorted the issue."
"Yeah; eCalc isn't perfect but it gives a good indication on performance. I ran the numbers on your existing setup (making a few assumptions) and got this:
It's not exact, but eCalc tends to be conservative. I'd say it's close enough to match…"
"Just to add to this, if you can't match up Ecalc to your specs without a premium account, I'm happy to help. Just add the AUW, the prop specs and the battery voltage."