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3689424243?profile=originalNow let me start off with YES I have read the manual where they state millions of times disconnect the motors, or take off the props whenever you are making certain changes.

 

I would consider myself well-versed with the entire APM, but I have chosen in the past to not get into the discussions on the forums, which is likely to change.

 

So I haven't had any problems with the motors spinning up AT ALL during the initial setup phase for any of the distributions. I have been flying and setting up this quad since early July of this year, and trust me, I'm absolutely hooked. Today, however, was an entirely different story. I was having some problems with ALT_HOLD pulsing in the most recent release, so figured might as well test out 2.0.42 and see how that faired for me.

 

I loaded the code for 2.0.42 (through the arduino software, which I have lots of experience doing with other arduino projects in the past) and then opened GCS in order to do the initial setup of my Quad. Reset the thing fine, and moved onto my controller calibration (neglecting to take off the props, or disconnect the motors).

 

Here I pressed calibrate, and tried calibrating my radio, but nothing was showing up, weird. Hit save, and realized my controller was off, turned that on, and before I could even blink I heard the whirl of my quad taking off at 100% throttle. Still connected to my computer via USB, and without direction from me. Without even looking I reached my hand out to prevent liftoff, and, well, too late.

 

It took off in my living-room, tore through my hand, across my laptop, and ultimately smashed into the couch, still running.

 

Now keep in mind this was a custom build of mine (The original Aeroquad frame directions) with 350w 910kv Motors. A little overpowered to begin with:

 

3689424306?profile=original

 

So here are the results of me attempting to stop my quad from taking off in my living-room (WARNING: GRAPHIC):

 

3689424187?profile=original

 

3689424259?profile=original

 

This one sure goes down in my own record books as my most expensive whoops so far.

New MBP Screen

New MBP Keyboard

One Motor, 2 Props

Frame looks okay

APM Board got caught in my bloody crossfire, but cleaned it and should function fine.

12 Stitches and 3 hours in the hospital! Woooo!

Thankfully no tendon damage, but you can see a small portion of it on the left side of that open wound :)

 

So what did I learn from this:

Clearly my quad is not an indoor flyer

RTFM and Listen to it!

And props HURT.......BADLY

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Eaglewing FPV 1500mm (ARF)

eaglewing-19337.jpg

The Eaglewing has been designed specifically for FPV and as you would expect for an FPV platform, there is a generous wing area coupled with a pusher motor configuration. The large canopy you would also expect, but the clever part is that it can be configured in a variety of ways to suit your FPV equipment, with a large clear over-canopy that can be cut to the desired size.

 

Specifications:
Wingspan: 1500mm
Length: 980mm
Flying Weight: 960g

 

Price: US$ 49.99 / 57.20 (USA) - Prices might vary depending on your Hobbyking membership level

 

More information at Hobbyking: hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_v...roduct=19337

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ArduVolans - my take on ArduPilot

3689424081?profile=originalI've been following DIY Drones for awhile and in the past have purchased several components that made up the pre-oilpan era of electronics.  I was looking forward to the proposed ArudPilot-lite board that appears to have since been canceled.  So I made my own!  And in the process, learned great deal about designing, fabricated and programming Arduino.

At this point it has not seen any flight time.  But all of the electronics are on a single board and have been tested.  What you are seeing is Rev3 which has a GPS, 3-axis accelerometer, 3-axis gyro, 3-axis magentometer and a pressure/temperature sensor on board.  5 servo inputs and 4 outputs.  Servos can be powered by the battery or from the ESC.  Battery voltage level is monitored using a voltage divider, and there are 7 IO pins available for expansion.

If you'd like to follow my progress, I'll be updating this page as I go along:  http://www.happicow.com/arduvolans.php

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CadSoft Eagle V6 XML Support

PT_101602.jpgFor those into board design, Eagle is a nice free (for non-commercial use) option which has, until now, lacked XML structure.  Eagle will soon support importing & translating from other formats among other productivity improvements.  Until now, this compatibility issue has prevented myself and likely many others from using Eagle as a primary PCB design tool.  I believe the DIYD crew also uses Eagle for designing Arduboards.

From CadSoftUSA via Make

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Flytron ADXL345 Accelerometer Breakout Board

adxl345-accelerometer-breakout-board.jpgThe ADXL345 is a small, thin, low power, 3-axis accelerometer with high resolution (13-bit) measurement at up to ±16 g. Digital output data is formatted as 16-bit twos complement and is accessible through either a SPI (3- or 4-wire) or I2C digital interface. The ADXL345 is well suited to measures the static acceleration of gravity in tilt-sensing applications, as well as dynamic acceleration resulting from motion or shock. Its high resolution (4 mg/LSB) enables measurement of inclination changes less than 1.0°. Several special sensing functions are provided. Activity and inactivity sensing detect the presence or lack of motion and if the acceleration on any axis exceeds a user-set level. Tap sensing detects single and double taps. Free-fall sensing detects if the device is falling. These functions can be mapped to one of two interrupt output pins. An integrated, patent pending 32-level first in, first out (FIFO) buffer can be used to store data to minimize host processor intervention. Low power modes enable intelligent motion-based power management with threshold sensing and active acceleration measurement at extremely low power dissipation.

Features:
Ultralow power: as low as 40 μA in measurement mode and 0.1 μA in standby mode at VS = 2.5 V (typical)
Power consumption scales automatically with bandwidth
User-selectable resolution :
Fixed 10-bit resolution
Full resolution, where resolution increases with g range, up to 13-bit resolution at ±16 g (maintaining 4 mg/LSB scale factor in all g ranges)
Embedded, patent pending FIFO technology minimizes host processor load
Tap/double tap detection
Activity/inactivity monitoring
Free-fall detection
Supply voltage range: 2.0 V to 3.6 V
I/O voltage range: 1.7 V to VS
I2C interface
Measurement ranges selectable via serial command
Bandwidth selectable via serial command
Wide temperature range (−40°C to +85°C)
10,000 g shock survival

Documents:
Schematic: http://www.flytron.com/pdf/ADXL345_schematic.pdf
Datasheet (ADXL345): http://www.flytron.com/pdf/ADXL345_datasheet.pdf
Example Code (Arduino): http://www.flytron.com/pdf/ADXL345_example_code.zip

 

Price is US$ 24.95 (on sale, might not take long)

 

More information at the Flytron website: http://store.flytron.com/sensors/143-adxl345-accelerometer-breakout-board.html

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hmc5883l-triple-axis-magnetometer-breakout.jpg

HMC5883L is a 3-axis digital compass from Honeywell. Communication with the HMC5883L is simple and all done through an I2C interface. There is no on-board regulator, so a regulated voltage of 2.16-3.6VDC should be supplied.

This breadboard-friendly board breaks out pins  to a 4-pin 0.1" pitch header. We've also put two 10k pull-up resistors on the I2C lines.

Features:
Simple I2C interface
2.16-3.6VDC supply range
Low current draw
5 milli-gauss resolution

Dimensions:
15.2x15.2 mm
0.5 gram

Documents available for download:
Schematic: http://www.flytron.com/pdf/HMC5883L_schematic.pdf
Datasheet (HMC5883L): http://www.flytron.com/pdf/HMC5883L_datasheet.pdf
Arduino Example code: http://www.flytron.com/pdf/HMC5883L_example_code.zip

 

Price is US$ 13.95 (sale price, not sure how long it holds...)

 

More information at the Flytron site: http://store.flytron.com/sensors/142-hmc5883l-triple-axis-magnetometer-breakout.html

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3D Robotics

3689424202?profile=originalI'm going to be speaking at the Wired UK conference in London on Oct 13 and they want to see an ArduCopter demo. I can't bring on with me. Are there any ArduCopter pilots in the London area who would like to do an (indoors) demo at the conference? I can get you free admission to the whole thing (plus you get to hang out with me ;-))

 

PM me if you're interested.

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Distributor

3689424168?profile=original

These instructions explain how to set up a Spektrum DX7 transmitter for 6 different flight modes, using just the 3 position Flaps switch (in combination with the Rudder switch). This way you'll use just one channel for the flight modes and leave the Gear and Aux2 channel open ...

(note that you have to use the DX7 in "airplane mode", not in "heli mode" to fly a quadcopter)

 

  • switch on your remote while pressing SCROLL DOWN and SELECT
  • go to "D/R Switch Sel" menu (with the SCROLL UP/DOWN button)
  • select "Com Rudd" by pressing the INCREASE button
  • go to the "Input Select" menu (with the SCROLL UP/DOWN button)
  • press select until you reach "Flap:", make sure it is set to "System" (you can change the setting with the INCREASE button)
  • press SELECT
  • set "Flap Trim" to "Inh" by pressing the INCREASE button
  • switch off the remote
  • switch on the remot
  • Press SCROLL DOWN + SELECT to access the programming mode
  • Go to "Mix1" (with the SCROLL UP/DOWN button)
  • go into the menu of "Mix1" by pressing the INCREASE button
  • Select "Flap" > by pressing the INCREASE button
  • press SELECT to jump to the second position and select  > "Flap" by pressing the INCREASE button
  • press SELECT
  • Set rate to "+100%" and "-50%" (with the INCREASE/DECREASE button, you'll have to put the FLAP switch in the "N" position for the first value and into the "2" position to set the second value)
  • press SELECT
  • Set SW to "Mix" by pressing the INCREASE button
  • press SELECT
  • set offset to "10" by pressing the INCREASE button
  • Go to "Flap Sys" menu (with the SCROLL UP/DOWN button)
  • set Flap Norm = UP to "46%" (with the SCROLL UP/DOWN button)
  • press twice SELECT
  • set Flap Mid = DN to "8%" (with the SCROLL UP/DOWN button)
  • press twice SELECT
  • set Flap Land = DN to "100%" (with the SCROLL UP/DOWN button)
  • press twice SELECT
  • set Auto Land to Inhibit (with the SCROLL UP/DOWN button)

connect now your APM to the Ardupilot Mega Planner, go to the setup page and assign different flight modes to the switch combinations of your remote.

 

I like to have easy access to the simple mode (just to get very quick out of a difficult situation) which is the reason why I have two switch combinations programmed for simple mode. I have set it the way that simple mode is always selected if the "Flaps" switch is on "N" (away from me), no matter if the "Rudder" switch is on or off. This way I have just 5 modes accessible, but I can very easy and quick switch back to simple mode.

 

(this is based on the blog post by Limebear)

 

 

www.diesunddas.co.uk
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Moderator




Dear Friends,

today i doing my first flight with new revision of VR Dragon.

Dragon components are :

VR Brain (Multipilot32 ).

VR Imu Full

6 x 50 Amp Motorius ESC

6 x 13 APC propeller.

6 x Turnigy Motors

Carbon Fiber Frame.

The first gimbal tested is PhotoHigher AV 200.

This kind of configuration can

I put on Dragon for the test 2 kind of camera Panasonic SD90 and Canon EOS 600D.

During my test i found some problem on rolling shutter on SD90 . The Canon EOS 600D don't have any kind of problem it is perfect camera.

The RTF Kit will be available at the end of october if you need more information contact me at : lasernav@gmail.com

 

Original post : http://www.virtualrobotix.com/profiles/blogs/vr-dragon-2-0-first-flight-with-gimbal-firmware-arducopter-32-rev

More picture for building log : http://www.virtualrobotix.com/photo

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My Custom Arducopter Frame - Part 2

Here is the laser cut acrylic mocked up...the laser doesn't do well with G10 so I had to find someone that would cut it for me until I build my own router. 

 

Here is the main plate with the carrier boards. I have the vibration mounts(black things) supporting the carrier boards. The APM is mounted on top of the first carrier board with the Xbee on the very top. 

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here is the bottom half of the copter. the battery tray is on the bottom. the battery slides in between the two pieces. 

3689424054?profile=original

 

 

and lastly, here are both pieces together. the arms will sit between the two big main plates.

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i have one g10 piece to cut by hand. i'll post more pics when it's done.

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Flytron BMP085 Breakout (pressure sensor)

bmp085-breakout-board.jpg

This is a simple breakout board for the BMP085 high-precision, low-power barometric pressure sensor. The BMP085 offers a measuring range of 300 to 1100 hPa with an absolute accuracy of down to 0.03 hPa. It's based on piezo-resistive technology for EMC robustness, high accuracy and linearity as well as long term stability. This sensor supports a voltage supply between 1.8 and 3.6VDC. It is designed to be connected directly to a micro-controller via the I²C bus

 

This breadboard-friendly board breaks out all pins of the BMP085 to a 4-pin 0.1" pitch header. We've also put two 10k pull-up resistors on the I2C lines.

 

Features:

  • Digital two wire (I2C) interface
  • Wide barometric pressure range
  • Flexible supply voltage range
  • Ultra-low power consumption
  • Low noise measurement
  • Fully calibrated
  • Temperature measurement included
  • Ultra-flat, small footprint

 

Dimensions:

  • 15.2 x 15.2mm

 

Various documents are available:

 

Price is US$ 18.95 (on sale at time of writing).

 

More information at the Flytron website: http://store.flytron.com/sensors/141-bmp085-breakout-board.html

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3689424002?profile=original

This is the third part of a three-part posting on chip design and how to reconcile it with the open source and DIY movements. (Part 1 is here and part 2 is here.) In this part I will discuss economics- How much does it actually cost to fabricate a chip? Can batching be used to make the cost accessible to a group of (hypothetical) casual chip designers?

 

Masks

Once a chip design is “taped out”, the chip foundry who manufactures them first creates a set of masks- anywhere from around 15 to upwards depending on the design and the manufacturing process. These are for a photolithography process that is vaguely similar to those used in PCB manufacture, however for chips the masks are both more precise and more expensive.

I won’t give exact costs or list specific foundries, but I’ve seen masks cost anywhere from under $10k to over $50k for a complete set. This is for a 0.5um or 0.6um process. Obviously the masks for the latest 32nm process would be much more.

 

Reticle

Typically in chip design the foundry creates a set of masks for a “reticle”, a box-like region that gets replicated over and over across a whole wafer using a stepping process. A wafer itself is a disc of silicon less than a millimeter thick but generally tens of centimeters in diameter.

The typical reticle size I use is about 21mm x 21mm. (The masks themselves are much larger than this but the image is optically reduced during the manufacturing process.) You can fill up that reticle pretty much any way you want- you can put in a single 21mm x 21mm chip. If your chip size is just 2mm x 2mm you can put in a 100 of these into the reticle, so every reticle gets you 100 chips. You could also put in 100 different designs. This is where batching would come in.

 

Batching

There are companies that provide batching services. One of the oldest is the MOSIS service, run by ISI of the University of Southern California. MOSIS was set up originally with DARPA and NSF grants as a way to bring chip design to universities, and give students the ability to design and fabricate a chip, either as a classroom exercise or for a research grant. MOSIS also offered their services to industry. To this day they still offer these services and actually serve as a “store front” for several major chip foundries (ON-Semiconductor, TSMC, IBM, and others) for customers who want to prototype chips without paying for a whole set of masks.

The economics are essentially that everyone shares the cost of the tooling. Let’s say a mask set for a reticle has 10 different designs and cost $20k to make (a somewhat made up number)- that comes down to $2k per design- a much more reasonable number!

There are other services similar to MOSIS, and there are also individual companies that offer “multi-project runs” specifically for smaller customers that want to batch-prototype chips. So the batching concept is clearly established. In fact, whenever I do a run of silicon at Centeye I also place multiple designs on one reticle to get the most for my money.

 

Hypothetical Cost Breakdown

So let’s suppose a company wanted to get into the chip batching business. Let’s say the company decides to accept 2mm x 2mm size chips, and place 100 different designs onto a reticle. (The remaining 1mm slivers could be used for test circuits and quality control…) Looking at pure costs alone (e.g. neglecting stuff like “overhead”, “labor”, and “profit”), the numbers might look like this:

 

Mask set for a 21mm x 21mm reticle: $20,000

6”/150mm diameter wafers, set of 10 (approx 30+ reticles per wafer): $10,000

Dicing the wafer up into chips: $500 per wafer

 

First consider prototype quantities- I don’t know of any foundry that will make a single wafer- typically a set of wafers are manufactured in case one or a couple of them fail quality assurance inspections. For initial prototyping you would end up dicing just one wafer. Next comes packaging- most customers are not equipped to work with bare die, so they would probably want the chips in a DIP or similar package that they can then solder to a board or press into a breadboard- this would probably cost at most $20 per chip, at cost. Total cost per customer: ($20k + $10k + $500)/100 = $305 for about 30 chips, plus $20 per chip packaged.

Next let’s consider a slightly higher quantity price break, by dicing up all 10 wafers. The total cost per customer rises to ($20k + $10k + 10 x $500) = $350 for about 300 chips, not including packaging.

These numbers are encouraging. Of course, we have to assume 100 such customers can be found, and we have to consider the other costs to stay in business, but the above numbers should give you a starting point.

 

So where does that put us?

Once we factor in the cost of doing business, we get upwards to a thousand dollars for a batch-run prototype chip. This is a stiff amount compared to a batch-fabbed PCB. But it is not impossible- This amount is easily within the budget of a Kickstarter project, and there are hobbyists that would be willing to spend this amount on a chip fab. Certainly small companies could spend this amount. Also note that due to the nature of the chip manufacturing process, there could be several hundred individual chips available for use (or sale) if the design works. (There are a number of caveats, of course, which I didn’t mention here, but can discuss below if there is interest.)

I think one of the challenges, though, is overcoming the fear of spending money on a fabrication that doesn’t work. Getting back a PCB that doesn’t work is never fun; the stakes are higher for chips because of both the higher cost and the long lead times (generally six weeks or more). This is where the combination of good design tools and good design practices can help out- I think the “abstract layout” workaround mentioned in my last post, properly executed, could make “probability of success” sufficiently high for the DIY crowd.

 

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Distributor

 

3689423981?profile=original

This is how it worked for my DX7,

I use various switch combinations of the FLAPS and the GEAR switch which will give you 6 modes;

(note that you have to use the DX7 in "airplane mode", not in "heli mode" to fly a quadcopter)

 

  • Press SCROLL DOWN + SELECT to access the programming mode
  • Go to the "Travel Adjust" menu with the SCROLL UP/DOWN button
  • click the SELECT button till you reach "Flap", then set "Flap" to "U 65%" and "D 65%" (INCREASE/DECREASE button, you'll have to move the "Flap" switch to select between "U" and "D", this means put the switch in "N" position (away from you) to program the "U" value and move the switch to the "2" position for the "D" value)
  • Leave "Gear" on 100% - 100%
  • Go to "Mix1" (with the SCROLL UP/DOWN button)
  • go into the menu of "Mix1" by pressing the INCREASE button
  • Select "Ger" > by pressing the INCREASE button
  • press SELECT to jump to the second position and elect  > "Flap" on by pressing the INCREASE button
  • press SELECT
  • Set rate to "19%" and "31%" (with the INCREASE/DECREASE button, you'll have to put the GEAR switch in the "0" position for the first value and into the "1" position to set the second value)
  • press SELECT
  • Set SW to "on" by pressing the INCREASE button
  • Leave Offset at "0"

connect now your APM to the Ardupilot Mega Planner, go to the setup page and assign different flight modes to the switch combinations of your remote.

 

I like to have easy access to the simple mode (just to get very quick out of a difficult situation) which is the reason why I have two switch combinations programmed for simple mode. I have set it the way that simple mode is selected if the "Flaps" switch is on "N" (away from me), no matter if the "Gear" switch is on or off. This way I have just 5 modes accessible, but I can very easy and quick switch back to simple mode.

 

(this is based on the blog post by Nick Wadman, I just adopted the programming description for a DX7)

 

www.diesunddas.co.uk
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3689423917?profile=originalHere you can see the little guy we have just begun to use and will be releasing for sale in early October. The black Forebrain board is what was running the autopilot code in ROFL up till now, 72MHz ARM Cortex-M3 microcontroller, measures 66mm*23mm.  The longer Hivebrain board is what we will switch to and will bundle as an optional upgrade to Forebrain with the ROFL kits, it's the same Forebrain pinout, but with a surface-mounted Series 2 XBee module using an external antenna, measures 111mm*23mm.  No more messing around with weirdly spaced Xbee module pins!

For now it is proving an absolute god-send for PID tuning and other tweaks...speeds the process up considerably, in flight it can be used for all sorts of telemetry transfer. I'll be using this system in my upcoming video guides and demonstrations for PID tuning.

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My precious UAV

It is AXN Floater with APM128 board. Waiting for the good weather... Pictures says the rest =)

 

BTW. XBee is under buzzer, just behind the motor. Sometimes it does interfere with receiver. Thinking to move receiver...

 

 

3689423801?profile=original

3689423893?profile=original

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Well, after a rather merry holiday in Scotland I'm back and will be posting a load of development videos (mainly of ROFL) for those that are interested. This is our first attempt at flying outdoors in the night. Actually this is the first time I have ever tried to fly a model outdoors at night, it takes a little getting used to, all your old reference points are gone and suddenly you only have some very bright LEDs to refer to! Though we actually pointed the LEDs at the aircraft which made it partially visible and reduced the light intensity, I recommend this approach for anyone thinking about it!

I have some cunning plans for a much crazier and more exciting lighting system to be built soon. Keep in touch with all our progress as normal at: www.universalair.co.uk

Yuan has pretty much finished writing heaps and heaps of code for Forebrain...now we have a comprehensive set of functions in the guides section: www.universalair.co.uk/guides

I for one am massively excited about some of the things that are now possible! I am just about to start soldering up the neat little Servo Connector board prototype: www.universalair.co.uk/content/big-prototype-run

It looks more than elegant sitting in the "brain space" of ROFL. I'll post some pictures soon. Need to get in as many test flights as possible before the bad weather sets in.

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